[Coup d'etat]

I tried to edit the pics to show correctly but I'm doing this on an Android phone. If a moderator could please fix the pics I would greatly appreciate it.
My Sig P226 is an early mix-master that has been magnaported and has a stainless buffer and locking block. It is an extremely fast and accurate shooter.

 

[fjgiie]

Fixed - Good Job

This is much better

than this

 

[GoneBallisticInAlabama]

Great job!! :thumbsu:

 

[bblr]

Nice job!

 

[Czechvar]

Mega Culpa...Put one in upside down on my first Mag Release change yesterday. Fortunately I remembered this technique, and I had a super thin copper washer I cut down for the job. It wasn’t perfect, and I did chip off a tiny piece of the top edge, but plenty left to retain the stop. I dremeled out a tiny pocket to improve the hole. Spraying high temp grill paint to cover the divot.

I’m going to Amazon to order a feeler gauge in case it happens again.

 

[Czechvar]

Update #2 Found a Dremel Tool that carved a nice little shelf in the Magazine Release hole, then darkened the dremeled out aluminum with Casey’s Aluminum Black touchup. Now I have a Frame ($275) coming I don’t need. But I found a complete P239 40 S&W Upper for it. So for 275+290=$565 (plus another $60 for an SRT Kit) I have a new P239. I have enough barrels that it can be 357, 40, or 9mm.

Update...Found a new complete Black 40S&W Frame on GB, so I will be swapping it out. I’m not comfortable with the magazine release hole I damaged. Maybe I’ll flip it to a Left Hand Release and sell it like that.

 

[Expedient]

from sigforum:
Get you a set of feeler gages. .004 works best but .005 will work. Trim it like the picture where the end will be about 1/8" to 1/4". Depress the mag release into the frame. Slide the feeler gage down between the release and the frame as far as you can make it go. Push up on the release and be sure to catch the stop and spring. It may take once or twice.

IS the catch/release in the photo shown (Post #4) the correct orientation...i.e with the stepped-down portion facing out...???

Thanks. (Yup, did it on a P220 10mm....) And, the .004 gauge blade worked fine, and quickly....thanks much!

 

[Willard]

IS the catch/release in the photo shown (Post #4) the correct orientation...i.e with the stepped-down portion facing out...???

Thanks. (Yup, did it on a P220 10mm....) And, the .004 gauge blade worked fine, and quickly....thanks much!

Yes, the "raised" portion needs to be on the "inside" so the "stepped down" portion extends out, and is accessible to depress. That's where the problem comes from, when installed backward, no portion of the detent is visible to depress, since the catch is "semi-depressed" a few thousands of an inch.

 

[Expedient]

Yes, the "raised" portion needs to be on the "inside" so the "stepped down" portion extends out, and is accessible to depress. That's where the problem comes from, when installed backward, no portion of the detent is visible to depress, since the catch is "semi-depressed" a few thousands of an inch.

Thanks for the reply....


Yes, I did go ahead, using a .004" feeler-gauge blade, cut to 1/4" wide, and slightly rounded at the nose...and, in less than 30 seconds, had it out; just a little manipulating needed. Once out, the requisite positioning was self-evident...

Although, after the repositioning from left-handed operation, back to the original right-handed positioning...I found that mag insertion/engagement was stiff, requiring a good push to get past the catch, which I assume is ramped-and-rounded in the same manner/degree, on both sides, and the pressuring/base spring is the same, so can only assume that something is a bit off. Have replacements for all related parts coming, anyway, so will just swap it all out and start fresh...

Thanks, again, to the OP and all contributors; I was planning to drill out the catch, to extract, and replace, so this sure saved some fuss......

 

[Willard]

Thanks for the reply....


Yes, I did go ahead, using a .004" feeler-gauge blade, cut to 1/4" wide, and slightly rounded at the nose...and, in less than 30 seconds, had it out; just a little manipulating needed. Once out, the requisite positioning was self-evident...

Although, after the repositioning from left-handed operation, back to the original right-handed positioning...I found that mag insertion/engagement was stiff, requiring a good push to get past the catch, which I assume is ramped-and-rounded in the same manner/degree, on both sides, and the pressuring/base spring is the same, so can only assume that something is a bit off. Have replacements for all related parts coming, anyway, so will just swap it all out and start fresh...

Thanks, again, to the OP and all contributors; I was planning to drill out the catch, to extract, and replace, so this sure saved some fuss......

It takes some finesse, and holding your mouth just right, but you can be successful. Problem is too many people in a "rush", and as has been said for ages... Haste makes Waste!

Anytime you see a "stripped" Sig Sauer frame on Gun Broker for sale, pay close attention... as normally one side is damaged... even if you see a Sig pistol for sale with the catch reversed, and grips like the Hogue Finger grooved model on it, be cautious...

 

[ThnkFrst]

You probably don't want to hear this...

Although, after the repositioning from left-handed operation, back to the original right-handed positioning...I found that mag insertion/engagement was stiff, requiring a good push to get past the catch,...

I would suggest taking the mag catch back out again and verifying that the mag catch spring (not the mag catch detent spring) is properly seated in the hole in the end of the mag catch and that the end that sticks out is not bent over.

 

[Striker269]

I stumbled on this site looking for a fix to this exact issue.

Would you mind posting a picture of the feeler gauge with the necessary cuts? After pushing this in to the detent channel, did you just push the mag release from the rear or did you have to use a punch or hammer it out?

Thanks!

Thanks for the reply....


Yes, I did go ahead, using a .004" feeler-gauge blade, cut to 1/4" wide, and slightly rounded at the nose...and, in less than 30 seconds, had it out; just a little manipulating needed. Once out, the requisite positioning was self-evident...

Although, after the repositioning from left-handed operation, back to the original right-handed positioning...I found that mag insertion/engagement was stiff, requiring a good push to get past the catch, which I assume is ramped-and-rounded in the same manner/degree, on both sides, and the pressuring/base spring is the same, so can only assume that something is a bit off. Have replacements for all related parts coming, anyway, so will just swap it all out and start fresh...

Thanks, again, to the OP and all contributors; I was planning to drill out the catch, to extract, and replace, so this sure saved some fuss......

 

[Expedient]

Sorry for the delayed follow-up....

I cut the blade long, but the cut/reduced-width section need be only 1/4-3/8". Obviously, if long, one need to choke-up on the hold, near the end, as the .004" isn't particularly stiff.

I cut it to 1/4" wide, and rounded the end/tip to facilitate insertion/engagement...

I don't recall whether or not I had the retainer plate/tension spring installed on the opposite end; though, that would put unwanted tension on the detent pin, working against the process. One would, of course, need to apply a little push, once the gauge blade has effected the release, to get the catch to move out...

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*** I don't have a current photo-hosting option, so....if someone who does, would receive a few photos via e-mail/PM/Conversation, and add them, it would be appreciated and answer Stiker269's request, thanks.

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In response to ThnkFrst/post #31 - All seems correct; gunsmith says should round-in with some use. Also, I had gone right ahead and ordered all associated parts from SIG, so have the option to just replace everything...

 

[Willard]

Sorry for the delayed follow-up....

I cut the blade long, but the cut/reduced-width section need be only 1/4-3/8". Obviously, if long, one need to choke-up on the hold, near the end, as the .004" isn't particularly stiff.

I cut it to 1/4" wide, and rounded the end/tip to facilitate insertion/engagement...

I don't recall whether or not I had the retainer plate/tension spring installed on the opposite end; though, that would put unwanted tension on the detent pin, working against the process. One would, of course, need to apply a little push, once the gauge blade has effected the release, to get the catch to move out...

-------------

*** I don't have a current photo-hosting option, so....if someone who does, would receive a few photos via e-mail/PM/Conversation, and add them, it would be appreciated and answer Stiker269's request, thanks.

----------


In response to ThnkFrst/post #31 - All seems correct; gunsmith says should round-in with some use. Also, I had gone right ahead and ordered all associated parts from SIG, so have the option to just replace everything...

I don't have a "hosting site" either, I just upload the .jpg file as an attachment "thumbnail" using "Go Advanced", so if people just click on it, it will expand.

 

[Endo]

I too ran into this issue because the button rotated during assembly.

I used a 0.003 gauge and thinned it to 1/4 inch, followed the directions and it popped right out without any problem. I used a slightly different design but it worked just as well. I narrowed the gauge till the center was 1/4 inch and each narrow side was 1 inch long, depressed the release as far in as it would go then wiggled the gauge in a few times and pushed the mag release button towards the Shim and it walked right out as if the tool was purpose-designed for the job.

Then to avoid button orientation problems, I used the gauge to orient the lip of the button towards the center of the frame, pushed the button in, and when I pulled the shim the button deployed perfectly and the orientation was assured.

 

[Ray5]

I too ran into this issue because the button rotated during assembly.

I used a 0.003 gauge and thinned it to 1/4 inch, followed the directions and it popped right out without any problem. I used a slightly different design but it worked just as well. I narrowed the gauge till the center was 1/4 inch and each narrow side was 1 inch long, depressed the release as far in as it would go then wiggled the gauge in a few times and pushed the mag release button towards the Shim and it walked right out as if the tool was purpose-designed for the job.

Then to avoid button orientation problems, I used the gauge to orient the lip of the button towards the center of the frame, pushed the button in, and when I pulled the shim the button deployed perfectly and the orientation was assured.

I made the same mistake but did not have a feeler gauge around, used a model knife instead. Did it on my second attempt.

 

[446g]

I made the same mistake but did not have a feeler gauge around, used a model knife instead. Did it on my second attempt.

I made this same dumb mistake and was so happy when I found this thread and realized I had a chance to correct my mistake without messing up my frame.
I only had one set of feeler gauges that my Dad had passed down to me that I did not want to distroy. I also didn't have a hobby knife and unfortunately I am laid up with foot surgery and unable to drive to the hardware store. I got to thinking what else I could use. I have an old fashion safety razer that uses very thin razer blades. I took a pair of tin snips and cut one of the old blades long ways and at an angle so one end was tapering from about an 1/8" up to about 1/2". I wrapped the 1/2" end with electrical tape to protect my fingers from the sharp edge. I pushed the mag release button in as far as it would go then slipped the 1/4" end of the blade as far as it would go. Holding the blade firm I pushed the release button from the opposite side back. Continuing to hold the button in from the back side wiggle the blade back and forth slightly in between the front of the button (facing the trigger) and frame. Once the blade goes in between the detent pin and the frame push the mag release button out of the frame with the finger holding it on the back side.

 

[Ratwater1958]

I just did the same damn mistake on my P226. I tried switching to the other side because I'm left-handed. I put the plunger in backwards and now I'm drinking heavily.
Does this feeler-gage trick really work?

Thanks, Coup

It did not work for me. I finally sent mine back to Sig.