I've never done this but read here on ST that a member used a blade type feeler gauge (0.005"?) and maneuvered it between the mag catch and the frame to depress the mag catch stop. Can't remember if he came in from the right side of the frame (grip panel removed) or up thru the mag well. He was able to depress the mag catch stop enough to remove the mag catch assembly from the frame.

 

This happens often enough that Sig has a jig set-up at the service shop to drill out the release when you send it to them. Before someone starts with the poor design comments, this is not a part that is serviceable and you are on your own if you remove this part and reassemble incorrectly. As ThnkFrst stated, I have also read that you can use a feeler gauge while also using a pick to push or slide the magazine catch stop into the magazine catch. Rollo1880 don't feel embarrassed, you're not the first, won't be the last, it even occurred during my armorer's course. All the frames that were being used during the course I took were really beat up, I know I could see nicks and gouges in the aluminum frame of the one I was using in the magazine catch hole. Secure the frame in a padded vice and choose the right tools as suggested, and use the Force (patience) you'll get it.

 

from sigforum:
Get you a set of feeler gages. .004 works best but .005 will work. Trim it like the picture where the end will be about 1/8" to 1/4". Depress the mag release into the frame. Slide the feeler gage down between the release and the frame as far as you can make it go. Push up on the release and be sure to catch the stop and spring. It may take once or twice.

 

IS the catch/release in the photo shown (Post #4) the correct orientation...i.e with the stepped-down portion facing out...???

Thanks. (Yup, did it on a P220 10mm....) And, the .004 gauge blade worked fine, and quickly....thanks much!

 

Thanks for the feedback guys! Much appreciated. Will get on this over the weekend and post an update.

 

Welcome from Texas.

Sorry for Your problem.

That's why I only field strip.

 

Try removing the support plate on the opposite side and see if you can get it out that way. I've been curious to see if this would help.

FYI: the support plate slides out--don't pry it. There is a nub you can push on with flat head screwdriver.

 

Bearone2, Photo of detent say it's installed wrong. Looks like that the right way to install.
Am I missing something?

 

You are correct, sugerwater, this is the correct way to install, photo mislabeled.

 

I just did the same damn mistake on my P226. I tried switching to the other side because I'm left-handed. I put the plunger in backwards and now I'm drinking heavily.
Does this feeler-gage trick really work?

Thanks, Coup

 

It should, but would suggest doing it sober, so you don't do anything you will regret, not thinking straight.

 

I'm ****** at myself for doing this. It's a rare occurrence when I mess up this bad because I usually study everthing thoroughly as I take it apart. Why would the Germans design a mag catch like this LOL? Soon as I popped it in I knew I ***** up. What a horrible feeling.

 

I'm off looking for feeler gauges. Does Autozone sell them? I have a complete set in the garage but I haven't used them in 30 years. Dont feel like spending six hours tearing the garage apart to find them.

 

Autozone should have them, or any decent auto parts store.

 

Alrighty then. Found some high quality Chinese feeler gauges (do we even make this stuff anymore?). It has .003, .004, and .005 inch steel blades. How should I cut them down? Dremel tool with small rotory cutting disc?

Many thanks, Coup

 

Should be able to use tin snips, as these aren't thick or "hardened"...

 

Good luck Coup.

 

I've been working at this for about 45 minutes with no luck. I understand the concept of what I'm trying to do, but the .004 "shim" that I made seems too flimsy to work. Still trying.

Coup

 

It worked! .004 feeler gauge worked like a charm. It popped right out once I applied some pressure from the other side.
Thank you gentleman for your advice, and thank you for this forum.
Now a Scotch on the rocks followed by a Gin & Tonic. It's celebration time.

 

I tried to edit the pics to show correctly but I'm doing this on an Android phone. If a moderator could please fix the pics I would greatly appreciate it.
My Sig P226 is an early mix-master that has been magnaported and has a stainless buffer and locking block. It is an extremely fast and accurate shooter.

 

Fixed - Good Job

This is much better

than this

 

Great job!! :thumbsu:

 

Nice job!

 

Mega Culpa...Put one in upside down on my first Mag Release change yesterday. Fortunately I remembered this technique, and I had a super thin copper washer I cut down for the job. It wasn’t perfect, and I did chip off a tiny piece of the top edge, but plenty left to retain the stop. I dremeled out a tiny pocket to improve the hole. Spraying high temp grill paint to cover the divot.

I’m going to Amazon to order a feeler gauge in case it happens again.

 

Update #2 Found a Dremel Tool that carved a nice little shelf in the Magazine Release hole, then darkened the dremeled out aluminum with Casey’s Aluminum Black touchup. Now I have a Frame ($275) coming I don’t need. But I found a complete P239 40 S&W Upper for it. So for 275+290=$565 (plus another $60 for an SRT Kit) I have a new P239. I have enough barrels that it can be 357, 40, or 9mm.

Update...Found a new complete Black 40S&W Frame on GB, so I will be swapping it out. I’m not comfortable with the magazine release hole I damaged. Maybe I’ll flip it to a Left Hand Release and sell it like that.

 

Sorry for the delayed follow-up....

I cut the blade long, but the cut/reduced-width section need be only 1/4-3/8". Obviously, if long, one need to choke-up on the hold, near the end, as the .004" isn't particularly stiff.

I cut it to 1/4" wide, and rounded the end/tip to facilitate insertion/engagement...

I don't recall whether or not I had the retainer plate/tension spring installed on the opposite end; though, that would put unwanted tension on the detent pin, working against the process. One would, of course, need to apply a little push, once the gauge blade has effected the release, to get the catch to move out...

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*** I don't have a current photo-hosting option, so....if someone who does, would receive a few photos via e-mail/PM/Conversation, and add them, it would be appreciated and answer Stiker269's request, thanks.

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In response to ThnkFrst/post #31 - All seems correct; gunsmith says should round-in with some use. Also, I had gone right ahead and ordered all associated parts from SIG, so have the option to just replace everything...

 

I don't have a "hosting site" either, I just upload the .jpg file as an attachment "thumbnail" using "Go Advanced", so if people just click on it, it will expand.

 

I too ran into this issue because the button rotated during assembly.

I used a 0.003 gauge and thinned it to 1/4 inch, followed the directions and it popped right out without any problem. I used a slightly different design but it worked just as well. I narrowed the gauge till the center was 1/4 inch and each narrow side was 1 inch long, depressed the release as far in as it would go then wiggled the gauge in a few times and pushed the mag release button towards the Shim and it walked right out as if the tool was purpose-designed for the job.

Then to avoid button orientation problems, I used the gauge to orient the lip of the button towards the center of the frame, pushed the button in, and when I pulled the shim the button deployed perfectly and the orientation was assured.

 

I too ran into this issue because the button rotated during assembly.

I used a 0.003 gauge and thinned it to 1/4 inch, followed the directions and it popped right out without any problem. I used a slightly different design but it worked just as well. I narrowed the gauge till the center was 1/4 inch and each narrow side was 1 inch long, depressed the release as far in as it would go then wiggled the gauge in a few times and pushed the mag release button towards the Shim and it walked right out as if the tool was purpose-designed for the job.

Then to avoid button orientation problems, I used the gauge to orient the lip of the button towards the center of the frame, pushed the button in, and when I pulled the shim the button deployed perfectly and the orientation was assured.

I made the same mistake but did not have a feeler gauge around, used a model knife instead. Did it on my second attempt.