[uncleknife1]

I just got my P365 and did not plan on getting a light, laser or RDS for it -BUT- I scored a couple Tactical Development Rail attachments for a great deal (thanks again @pooty) and found a good deal on this little BALDR Mini, so I wanted to test it out. I've never run light/laser or RDS on my handguns, so this all is new territory for me.

I had some downtime at work today and took the opportunity to test it out for a bit; checking the runtime in all modes, recharge time, different mounting configurations etc. I have not had any range time with it (for some reason it's frowned upon to shoot my gun while at work), but I will be getting out this weekend and put it through it's paces and properly break in the new P365. 🍻

Initial impressions:

• It is pretty awesome for the size; great light output, bright green laser, easy windage/elevation adjustments, and decent runtime.
• Build quality seems decent for an inexpensive overseas-built item such as this, but time will tell.
• The 'Gunmetal' version I got looks great, but the anodized(?) coating has already worn off in a couple spots (near the QD lever) from messing around with it today.

The Bad - Small things that I found more annoying than truly problematic.

• I don't like the (proprietary) charging cable and lack of replaceable battery. I have other Olights and have never had an issue with them, but the supplied "Special" charge cable is only compatible with the BALDR Mini, and it is not backwards compatible with other Olight ring chargers that I have.
• The QD Lever is not a great design. The lever itself obstructs the switch (on the Left side) and the overall physical size of the lever is larger than it needs to be.

Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (600 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. (then it is a smooth ramp-down to 100 lumens, barely noticeable to be honest).
• Light Only: 43 min.
• Light + Laser: 31 min.
• Laser Only: 2 hours 35 min.
• Charge Time: 45 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

The QD Mount:
One thing I had read about is the QD Mount - some people love it, some people hate it. While I don't hate it entirely, I don't think it is the best design for use on a such a compact handgun. I disassembled the mount and tried a few different configurations, along with mounting to both the TacDev Rails I have (Ver. 1 and Ver. 2) to find the best mounting option.

QD Mount disassembled:

Standard QD Position on the TacDev Ver. 2 Rail:

You can see how the QD Lever obstructs the switch on the Left Side. This drove me crazy....a trip to the grinding wheel could solve the problem, but I'm not that desperate or destructive.

I unscrewed the QD Lever and flipped it around so the lever was locked to the front. This was a quick fix and got the lever out of the way, but it doesn't lay flat in this position and also caused additional wear on the anodized coating.

For S'n'Gs, I also tried reversing the mount around entirely (so the rear was now at the front), which I doubt is a good idea since the pic rail is now at the rearmost position. I just wanted to see if it would work - which it did, but again, likely not an ideal workaround. It also put the QD lever on the right side while in this position, which may pose to be a PITA for finding a holster.

Below pics are the same mounting positions, but using the TacDev Ver.1 Rail (which sits 1/8" lower and has one addtl. pic-rail slot at the rear, compared to Ver.2). I'm assuming the TacDev Ver.1 is very similar to the Recover Tactical Rail option, but I have no way of confirming/comparing the two.

Standard QD Lever position:

Reversed QD Lever:

Reversed Mounting Plate:

Comparison of the TacDev Ver.2 (top) and Ver.1 (bottom)

I went to my local screw store (they always have the specialty screws, bolts and fasteners when I need them) to find a socket cap screw or alternative option to see if I could omit the QD Lever entirely. I explained to the guy what I was trying to accomplish and handed him the QD lever screw. He ran to the back and came back with an M3x20mm Allen head socket cap machine screw. He said it was "on the house" and to let him know how it worked.

Well, it ended up being a bit too long (by about 5mm) - I believe they measure just the threaded portion which was 20mm, but the overall length was 25mm. I hacksawed off a little bit, just the tip, and quickly ran it on a file to clean up the threads.

After disassembling the entire mount again and taking care to not lose any springs, I put it back together using the new screw. I re-assembled it the exact same was as it was with the QD lever, and while it was a bit more cumbersome to re-assemble I am happy to report that the new screw worked GREAT and I think will be the best solution/workaround (for me).

I have no doubt it will hold just as good, if not better, than the QD Lever under recoil. Plus, no added bulk or snag points, no obstructions near the switch or trigger area. The only downside is it is no longer a "Quick" disconnect and requires a 2.5mm Allen wrench and flat-head screwdriver, but that's not a problem.

I'm hoping this post and pictures will help someone out if they are considering getting a BALDR Mini - it really is a great Light/Laser combo for the price and it fits great on the P365 (if you have a rail mount). If you already have the BALDR Mini and don't like the QD Lever - simply swap it out with an M3x20mm machine screw of your choice and see if that's a better option for you.

I will be sure to update this thread with additional feedback, info. and actual real-world reviews/results after getting some range-time with this thing.

Cheers!
🍻

Thank you for this amazing post.

I have just bought the Olight Balder-mini to use on a Sig 365 & did not realize from other pictures/posts how much the QD latch interfered with the activation of the left side switch when mounted to the 365, but it is fine if used on larger guns .
I was wondering if the replacement of the QD latch with the M3x20mm machine screw affected the fit of a kydex holster? Is the holster using the latch to hang onto?
Lastly, when replacing the bolt, do you need a separate nut? Or will it screw into the existing receiving part?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Benson X]

Thank you for this amazing post.

I have just bought the Olight Balder-mini to use on a Sig 365 & did not realize from other pictures/posts how much the QD latch interfered with the activation of the left side switch when mounted to the 365, but it is fine if used on larger guns .
I was wondering if the replacement of the QD latch with the M3x20mm machine screw affected the fit of a kydex holster? Is the holster using the latch to hang onto?
Lastly, when replacing the bolt, do you need a separate nut? Or will it screw into the existing receiving part?

Thank you in advance.

Hey @uncleknife1,

I can't say for certain if removing the QD Lever will affect the retention in your holster (I don't have a BALDR-compaitble holster yet, but hopefully in the next 6-7 weeks it will be ready and I will report back). I would think it wouldn't be an issue, since there are multiple other tight points of contact to retain it.

Regarding the screw, it is the same thread pitch as the original QD lever, so you shouldn't have any issue there. I re-used all the same original components (springs, washers etc.) with no issue.

Hope that helps a bit! 👍🏻🍻

 

[Benson X]

I received the BALDR-S yesterday and wanted to post some initial size comparisons. It is about 1/4" longer than the BALDR Mini, and will be a great fit on my XDm 4.5"; I doubt I will run it on the P365.

I will do some runtime tests on the BALDR-S tomorrow to report actual runtimes in all modes, as well as recharge times. The biggest differences to note on the (new) BALDR-S, aside from the slightly longer body are the battery life, two light modes (High/Low) and a small change to the mounting plate.

Battery:	3.7V 380mAh Rechargeable Lithium Polymer Battery (Built-in) (vs 230mAh on the BALDR Mini)
LIGHTING LEVELS
Green Beam ON (High):	800~300 lumens (vs BALDR Mini, 600~100 lumens)
1 minutes + 2 minutes + 30 minutes (vs BALDR Mini, 1 minutes + 29 minutes)
Green Beam ON (Low):	100 lumens
90 minutes (not available on BALDR Mini)
Green Beam OFF (High):	800~300 lumens (vs BALDR Mini, 600~100 lumens)
1 minutes + 2 minutes + 37 minutes (vs BALDR Mini, 1 minutes + 39 minutes)
Green Beam OFF (Low):	100 lumens
140 minutes (not available on BALDR Mini)

BALDR-S (Left) / BALDR Mini (Right):

BALDR-S (Top) / BALDR Mini (Bottom):

BALDR Mini Mounting Plate (Left) / BALDR-S Mounting Plate (Right):
Note the set-screws on the BALDR-S plate to further secure the plate to the light body and prevent any additional movement when removing the light and mount

BALDR Mini Mounting Plate (Left) / BALDR-S Mounting Plate (Right):
Note the set-screws on the BALDR-S plate to further secure the plate to the light body and prevent any additional movement when removing the light and mount

BALDR-S:

BALDR MIni:

BALDR-S (Top) / BALDR-Mini (bottom):

BALDR-S on my XDm-9 (4.5"):

[/B][/SIZE][/B]

 

[Benson X]

BALDR-S Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (800~300~100 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. then it is a smooth ramp-down to 300 lumens for 2 min. then finally a ramp down to 100 lumens for 30+ min.).
• High Output (800~300~100 Lumens) Light Only: 43 min.
• High Output Light (800~300~100 Lumens) + Laser: 37 min.
• Low Output (100 Lumens) Light Only: 152 min. (2 Hours, 32 min.)
• Low Output (100 Lumens) Light + Laser: 103 min. (1 hour, 43 min.)
• Green Laser Only: 5 hours, 18 min.
• Charge Time: 87-90 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

VS

BALDR Mini Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (600 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. (then it is a smooth ramp-down to 100 lumens, barely noticeable to be honest).
• Light Only: 43 min.
• Light + Laser: 31 min.
• Green Laser Only: 2 hours 35 min.
• Charge Time: 45 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

 

[Sunmoon]

Good to know. Thanks!

 

[Benson X]

Good to know. Thanks!

No problem.

It's just a bunch of numbers on a budget-friendly WML/Green Laser light, but hope it helps those who are researching or comparing real-world specs.

Plus, it gives me something to stay entertained while "working", in-between calls, emails and webinars. 🍻

 

[Heavy Industries]

Another excellent review! Thank You Sir!

 

[Benson X]

Another excellent review! Thank You Sir!

 

[Uncleknife]

I just got my P365 and did not plan on getting a light, laser or RDS for it -BUT- I scored a couple Tactical Development Rail attachments for a great deal (thanks again @pooty) and found a good deal on this little BALDR Mini, so I wanted to test it out. I've never run light/laser or RDS on my handguns, so this all is new territory for me.

I had some downtime at work today and took the opportunity to test it out for a bit; checking the runtime in all modes, recharge time, different mounting configurations etc. I have not had any range time with it (for some reason it's frowned upon to shoot my gun while at work), but I will be getting out this weekend and put it through it's paces and properly break in the new P365. 🍻

Initial impressions:

• It is pretty awesome for the size; great light output, bright green laser, easy windage/elevation adjustments, and decent runtime.
• Build quality seems decent for an inexpensive overseas-built item such as this, but time will tell.
• The 'Gunmetal' version I got looks great, but the anodized(?) coating has already worn off in a couple spots (near the QD lever) from messing around with it today.

The Bad - Small things that I found more annoying than truly problematic.

• I don't like the (proprietary) charging cable and lack of replaceable battery. I have other Olights and have never had an issue with them, but the supplied "Special" charge cable is only compatible with the BALDR Mini, and it is not backwards compatible with other Olight ring chargers that I have.
• The QD Lever is not a great design. The lever itself obstructs the switch (on the Left side) and the overall physical size of the lever is larger than it needs to be.

Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (600 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. (then it is a smooth ramp-down to 100 lumens, barely noticeable to be honest).
• Light Only: 43 min.
• Light + Laser: 31 min.
• Laser Only: 2 hours 35 min.
• Charge Time: 45 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

The QD Mount:
One thing I had read about is the QD Mount - some people love it, some people hate it. While I don't hate it entirely, I don't think it is the best design for use on a such a compact handgun. I disassembled the mount and tried a few different configurations, along with mounting to both the TacDev Rails I have (Ver. 1 and Ver. 2) to find the best mounting option.

QD Mount disassembled:

Standard QD Position on the TacDev Ver. 2 Rail:

You can see how the QD Lever obstructs the switch on the Left Side. This drove me crazy....a trip to the grinding wheel could solve the problem, but I'm not that desperate or destructive.

I unscrewed the QD Lever and flipped it around so the lever was locked to the front. This was a quick fix and got the lever out of the way, but it doesn't lay flat in this position and also caused additional wear on the anodized coating.

For S'n'Gs, I also tried reversing the mount around entirely (so the rear was now at the front), which I doubt is a good idea since the pic rail is now at the rearmost position. I just wanted to see if it would work - which it did, but again, likely not an ideal workaround. It also put the QD lever on the right side while in this position, which may pose to be a PITA for finding a holster.

I went to my local screw store (they always have the specialty screws, bolts and fasteners when I need them) to find a socket cap screw or alternative option to see if I could omit the QD Lever entirely. I explained to the guy what I was trying to accomplish and handed him the QD lever screw. He ran to the back and came back with an M3x20mm Allen head socket cap machine screw. He said it was "on the house" and to let him know how it worked.

Well, it ended up being a bit too long (by about 5mm) - I believe they measure just the threaded portion which was 20mm, but the overall length was 25mm. I hacksawed off a little bit, just the tip, and quickly ran it on a file to clean up the threads.

After disassembling the entire mount again and taking care to not lose any springs, I put it back together using the new screw. I re-assembled it the exact same was as it was with the QD lever, and while it was a bit more cumbersome to re-assemble I am happy to report that the new screw worked GREAT and I think will be the best solution/workaround (for me).

I have no doubt it will hold just as good, if not better, than the QD Lever under recoil. Plus, no added bulk or snag points, no obstructions near the switch or trigger area. The only downside is it is no longer a "Quick" disconnect and requires a 2.5mm Allen wrench and flat-head screwdriver, but that's not a problem.

I'm hoping this post and pictures will help someone out if they are considering getting a BALDR Mini - it really is a great Light/Laser combo for the price and it fits great on the P365 (if you have a rail mount). If you already have the BALDR Mini and don't like the QD Lever - simply swap it out with an M3x20mm machine screw of your choice and see if that's a better option for you.

I will be sure to update this thread with additional feedback, info. and actual real-world reviews/results after getting some range-time with this thing.

Cheers!
🍻

UPDATE (8/3/21):
Olight just released a new version (BALDR-S) which is a little big larger than the BALDR Mini, but has a higher output (800 lumens), 2 modes (800 lumens / 100 lumens) and improved battery life (140 min. on low mode).

Spec. comparison between the (new) BALDR-S and BALDR Mini:

BALDR-S:

GENERAL DATA
Beam Distance:	427 ft(130 m)
Max Performance:	800 lumens
Max Light Intensity:	4,400 candela
Battery:	3.7V 380mAh Rechargeable Lithium Polymer Battery (Built-in)
LIGHTING LEVELS
Green Beam ON (High):	800~300 lumens
1 minutes + 2 minutes + 30 minutes
Green Beam ON (Low):	100 lumens
90 minutes
Green Beam OFF (High):	800~300 lumens
1 minutes + 2 minutes + 37 minutes
Green Beam OFF (Low):	100 lumens
140 minutes
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Waterproof:	IPX4
Weight:	3.35 oz (95 g)
Length:	2.48 in (63 mm)
Head Diameter:	1.28 in (32.5 mm)
Body Diameter:	1.42 in (36 mm)

BALDR Mini:

GENERAL DATA
Beam Distance:	426 ft (130 m)
Max Performance:	600 lumens
Max Light Intensity:	4,225 candela
Battery:	3.7V 230mAh Rechargeable Lithium Polymer Battery (Built-in)
LIGHTING LEVELS
Green Beam OFF:	600~100 lumens
1 minutes + 39 minutes
Green Beam ON:	600~100 lumens
1 minutes + 29 minutes
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Waterproof:	IPX4
Weight:	3.07 oz (87 g)
Length:	2.24 in (57 mm)
Width:	1.29 in (32.8 mm)
Height:	1.41 in (35.8 mm)

It is about 1/4" longer than the BALDR Mini, and will be a great fit on my XDm 4.5"; I doubt I will run it on the P365.

The biggest differences to note on the (new) BALDR-S, aside from the slightly longer body are the battery life, two light modes (High/Low) and a small change to the mounting plate.

Battery:	3.7V 380mAh Rechargeable Lithium Polymer Battery (Built-in) (vs 230mAh on the BALDR Mini)
LIGHTING LEVELS
Green Beam ON (High):	800~300 lumens (vs BALDR Mini, 600~100 lumens)
1 minutes + 2 minutes + 30 minutes (vs BALDR Mini, 1 minutes + 29 minutes)
Green Beam ON (Low):	100 lumens
90 minutes (not available on BALDR Mini)
Green Beam OFF (High):	800~300 lumens (vs BALDR Mini, 600~100 lumens)
1 minutes + 2 minutes + 37 minutes (vs BALDR Mini, 1 minutes + 39 minutes)
Green Beam OFF (Low):	100 lumens
140 minutes (not available on BALDR Mini)

BALDR-S Actual Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (800~300~100 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. then it is a smooth ramp-down to 300 lumens for 2 min. then finally a ramp down to 100 lumens for 30+ min.).
• High Output (800~300~100 Lumens) Light Only: 43 min.
• High Output Light (800~300~100 Lumens) + Laser: 37 min.
• Low Output (100 Lumens) Light Only: 152 min. (2 Hours, 32 min.)
• Low Output (100 Lumens) Light + Laser: 103 min. (1 hour, 43 min.)
• Green Laser Only: 5 hours, 18 min.
• Charge Time: 87-90 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

VS

BALDR Mini Actual Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (600 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. (then it is a smooth ramp-down to 100 lumens, barely noticeable to be honest).
• Light Only: 43 min.
• Light + Laser: 31 min.
• Green Laser Only: 2 hours 35 min.
• Charge Time: 45 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

BALDR-S (Left) / BALDR Mini (Right):

BALDR-S (Top) / BALDR Mini (Bottom):

BALDR Mini Mounting Plate (Left) / BALDR-S Mounting Plate (Right):
Note the set-screws on the BALDR-S plate to further secure the plate to the light body and prevent any additional movement when removing the light and mount

BALDR-S:

BALDR-S (Top) / BALDR-Mini (bottom):

BALDR-S on my XDm-9 (4.5"):

Thank you very much for this article.
I am sorry I bought the balder mini about a week before the S version came out, but that's life.

I used your instructions to change out the QD screw with the m3 x 20mm screw, this really made access to the support (left) hand side activation switch perfect for my 365 standard model.
I took them to the range for the first time to zero in the laser, that went well, but it couldn't have been more than 75 to 100 rounds before fouling made the laser useless. Back at home during cleaning, I used your erasure suggestion to rub off the powder fouling off the lens without scratching it, Again, Thank you for all your help!!

I don't want to buy the 365 xl, to prevent fouling, so I will just have to remember that the light/laser is for defensive use & I don't plan on getting into a prolonged firefight where fouling would be a concern.

In the worst case scenario, I would put the QD switch back on & mound it to my 320 or 220, both having longer barrels, where fouling won't be an issue.

 

[365 Thrilled]

Wow what an AWESOME review! Amazing timing as I was literally just comparing Light/Laser combo's for my thrilling p365. Your information is priceless and all the responses/follow-up suggestions were very helpful in making my choice of the BALDR S over the mini.. ordered today and heading to the range Sunday to work it out.
Curious about holstering my 365 w/BALDR S and interested in anyone who's found a winner...
OP - thanks again for your great research!
Shooter

 

[Benson X]

Thank you very much for this article.
I am sorry I bought the balder mini about a week before the S version came out, but that's life.

I used your instructions to change out the QD screw with the m3 x 20mm screw, this really made access to the support (left) hand side activation switch perfect for my 365 standard model.
I took them to the range for the first time to zero in the laser, that went well, but it couldn't have been more than 75 to 100 rounds before fouling made the laser useless. Back at home during cleaning, I used your erasure suggestion to rub off the powder fouling off the lens without scratching it, Again, Thank you for all your help!!

I don't want to buy the 365 xl, to prevent fouling, so I will just have to remember that the light/laser is for defensive use & I don't plan on getting into a prolonged firefight where fouling would be a concern.

In the worst case scenario, I would put the QD switch back on & mound it to my 320 or 220, both having longer barrels, where fouling won't be an issue.

Glad you found it useful, along with the eraser trick to remove the carbon fouling. The only downside to using the BALDR (Mini or S) on the P365 is how it sticks out beyond the muzzle. But, as you said, if used for defensive purposes or limited rounds, it likely won't be an issue. I put close to 300 rounds through it with the BALDR-Mini mounted and it was pretty fouled after the first 100 or so rounds.

Wow what an AWESOME review! Amazing timing as I was literally just comparing Light/Laser combo's for my thrilling p365. Your information is priceless and all the responses/follow-up suggestions were very helpful in making my choice of the BALDR S over the mini.. ordered today and heading to the range Sunday to work it out.
Curious about holstering my 365 w/BALDR S and interested in anyone who's found a winner...
OP - thanks again for your great research!
Shooter

You're welcome and I'm glad you found the info. helpful in your comparison. With the slightly longer length, I am using the BALDR-S on my 4.5" XDm and keeping the BALDR Mini for the P365 (just due to the fouling/carbon deposits mentioned above).

Regarding the holsters, I have a couple holsters on order from Dan @ McKinaTec:

• Talon Grip AIWB for the P365 w/ Tac.Dev rail and BALDR Mini
• Talon Grip AIWB for the XDm 4.5" w/ BALDR-S

I reached out to him after purchasing the BALDR-S to see if he can modify the fit to accommodate that model as well. He replied back that he also has a BALDR-S on order so he can offer that as a WML option for his holsters. He probably already received the BALDR-S, since it was 8/5/21 that we were in correspondence. Check out his site and options, if you're patient and can deal with the longer lead time (7-9 weeks) they seem to be worth the wait, the price is very competitive and he's been awesome to work with so far. I'm still waiting on my holsters but hoping in the next 2-3 weeks I will have them in-hand and able to post some more detailed feedback and reviews.

 

[Punt]

Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (600 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. (then it is a smooth ramp-down to 100 lumens, barely noticeable to be honest).
• Light Only: 43 min.
• Light + Laser: 31 min.
• Laser Only: 2 hours 35 min.
• Charge Time: 45 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

What is the turbo mode you are referring to in this section?

 

[Benson X]

Battery Runtime:

• Turbo Mode (600 Lumens): Approx. 1 min. 30 sec. (then it is a smooth ramp-down to 100 lumens, barely noticeable to be honest).
• Light Only: 43 min.
• Light + Laser: 31 min.
• Laser Only: 2 hours 35 min.
• Charge Time: 45 min. from dead to full charge (using a 2A charger and supplied 'Special' cable). I got very consistent charge results each time, after 4 full cycles.

What is the turbo mode you are referring to in this section?

On the BALDR Mini, when you first turn on the light it will be on High Power (600 Lumens) for the first 90 seconds, then it will reduce the output to 100 lumens.

 

[Punt]

On the BALDR Mini, when you first turn on the light it will be on High Power (600 Lumens) for the first 90 seconds, then it will reduce the output to 100 lumens.

wow, it really is a nice ramp down that i couldn't notice! Thank you! Also, how the hell did you disassemble the clamp base? I cannot get that flathead on the rear to turn for the life of me! haha

 

[Benson X]

wow, it really is a nice ramp down that i couldn't notice! Thank you! Also, how the hell did you disassemble the clamp base? I cannot get that flathead on the rear to turn for the life of me! haha

You may need a few more ugga-duggas to loosen it.

I think they used some thread-locker on it, but I was able to unscrew using my Leatherman without too much effort. You may also try holding a flathead on it, then use the QD Lever itself to loosen it initially, then finish unscrewing it using the flathead.

 

[Benson X]

....a trip to the grinding wheel could solve the problem, but I'm not that desperate or destructive.

Another update - I received my McKinaTec Talon AIWB Holster recently and found that I would need to re-install the QD Level in order to get the best fit and retention in the holster. It would work with the machine screw instead of the QD lever, but I didn't get that "kydex click" since it relies on the the QD lever protrusion for that positive contact.

So...a trip to the grinding wheel was in short order. A quick 'n' dirty grind job to shorten the lever and I'm back in business. When I say quick 'n' dirty, I mean exactly that; I shortened the lever and hit it with some sandpaper to smooth any rough edges. I might end up painting it ground areas at some point.

The shortened QD Lever no longer interferes with BALDR button and still functions perfectly to keep the BALDR mounted securely. EXCELLENT fit in the McKinaTec holster as well - I really do love this holster and have been very pleased with Dan and his work.