Just make sure your carry ammo works in you gun and check the zero, that would be the main difference.

 

^^^ What he said. Ammo working in your CC is most important.

 

Spend a few more bucks/box & buy some decent practice ammo !

 

My experience is that Tula ammo, while cheap, doesn’t run well through my Sig pistols and it’s filthy, requiring more cleaning. I had several “malfunctions” that I initially thought were gun related but ended up being about the ammo. I carry Federal HST JHP 124 grain for self defense and I practice with decent, but less expensive, 124 grain brass cased FMJ rounds. I buy 1000 round cases via ammoseek.com. My guns run smoothly and I can focus on training drills rather than malfunctions.

 

The less expensive training ammo from Tula offers two benefits: 1) it's cheap. Real cheap. 2) Malfunction drills. It's not reliable as QC is low, the powder isn't NATO level which is a standard for many self defense pistol designs. Most manufacturers specify a particular loading as the minimum to reliably cycle the action, especially when the magazines and action are new. Tula doesn't meet that standard in their cheapest offerings.

There are a few on the internet who demand their auto pistols shoot whatever they load in the magazine and fault the manufacturer if it doesn't. None of the makers, however, ever suggest it can be done and almost universally use Customer Service departments to placate their demands while passing the extra costs onto the rest of us who know better.

Quite a few of us still shoot the cheaper ammo for plinking - but it's an informed decision, we don't go off on a tear when it doesn't work. Eject reload and move on. Another malfunction drill easily practiced when it doesn't create bigger issues when you don't need it. I usually shoot the last magazine with the carry ammo I that was in the gun between range trips, to remove any that were reloaded into the chamber more than once and to check on it reliably functioning and locking back on the last round - something cheap fodder is notorious for failing to do. Nobody wants to discover that when you need it to go bang and it just clicks. The process keeps you reliably trusting in your firearm while also cycling out older ammo which has seen a lot of carry for weeks, even months. They rarely cause a problem but when they do then at least you removed them from the rotation and now have fresh in it.

Many stick with what they experience as reliable ammo, it doesn't hurt to check out a box of newer or different off the shelf as you run across them which will give you a broader base of what does work well if and when your favorite comes up short - as we have all experienced in the last two years. I pretty much stick to a single brand and type rather than constantly try to upgrade to the newest most powerful Bullet of the Month. In a lot of instances some of those hot new rounds disappear after never showing up locally and are even pulled from the market as one too many in the lineup. Gimmick bullets and extreme loads are usually that way.

I generally use Hornady Critical or Defense, lately I ran across some Sierra in the new stainless/alloy cases - however, the local indoor range categorically prohibits all "steel" cases so I won't ever try them there. Keep that in mind as you drive into the parking lot - you want to know before hand or you wind up buying their stuff at their prices just to make the trip worthwhile.

 

The less expensive training ammo from Tula offers two benefits: 1) it's cheap. Real cheap. 2) Malfunction drills. It's not reliable as QC is low, the powder isn't NATO level which is a standard for many self defense pistol designs. Most manufacturers specify a particular loading as the minimum to reliably cycle the action, especially when the magazines and action are new. Tula doesn't meet that standard in their cheapest offerings.

There are a few on the internet who demand their auto pistols shoot whatever they load in the magazine and fault the manufacturer if it doesn't. None of the makers, however, ever suggest it can be done and almost universally use Customer Service departments to placate their demands while passing the extra costs onto the rest of us who know better.

Quite a few of us still shoot the cheaper ammo for plinking - but it's an informed decision, we don't go off on a tear when it doesn't work. Eject reload and move on. Another malfunction drill easily practiced when it doesn't create bigger issues when you don't need it. I usually shoot the last magazine with the carry ammo I that was in the gun between range trips, to remove any that were reloaded into the chamber more than once and to check on it reliably functioning and locking back on the last round - something cheap fodder is notorious for failing to do. Nobody wants to discover that when you need it to go bang and it just clicks. The process keeps you reliably trusting in your firearm while also cycling out older ammo which has seen a lot of carry for weeks, even months. They rarely cause a problem but when they do then at least you removed them from the rotation and now have fresh in it.

Many stick with what they experience as reliable ammo, it doesn't hurt to check out a box of newer or different off the shelf as you run across them which will give you a broader base of what does work well if and when your favorite comes up short - as we have all experienced in the last two years. I pretty much stick to a single brand and type rather than constantly try to upgrade to the newest most powerful Bullet of the Month. In a lot of instances some of those hot new rounds disappear after never showing up locally and are even pulled from the market as one too many in the lineup. Gimmick bullets and extreme loads are usually that way.

I generally use Hornady Critical or Defense, lately I ran across some Sierra in the new stainless/alloy cases - however, the local indoor range categorically prohibits all "steel" cases so I won't ever try them there. Keep that in mind as you drive into the parking lot - you want to know before hand or you wind up buying their stuff at their prices just to make the trip worthwhile.

Thanks for the nuggets of wisdom as I was reading your post I was thinking to myself YES this is exactly the type of information that I was hoping to get. Cheap stuff is cheap will work may actually result in having to practice FTF drills LOL, wont destroy gun, any FTF is ammo's fault and not gun, may not be as accurate and will have you cleaning additional gunk out of your gun. Also the bit about practicing with the stuff you plan to cary!~!! Ya most indoor ranges near me only allow brass. However great rod and gun club not far and allow steel. great information and advice; especially about the carry rounds that have been racked a few times. Ive hear that before, that if you chamber a round too frequently it could result in seating the bullet deeper into the case resulting in over pressure, boom that could be dangerous..... Thanks.

 

There are many here who use Tula regularly and claim it’s great to shoot. But as you’ve read, there are reasons to avoid any foreign-made (read Russian or Chinese) ammo. Like a lot of other stuff they make, it’s mostly junk, especially since you can find quality reman’d ammo to practice with cheaply.

Steel cased are prohibited at most indoor ranges because they create a potential for fire as they can make sparks and any unburned powder can then light up. At least that’s the excuse the ranges use. I’m not sure that’s totally true, but then I’m not sure that less than 1/2 case loads of powder create anything but a potential flame front propagation issue. Still, I don’t believe they seal the chamber as well, and that IS an issue.

Look here for cheaper ammo that you can blast away with, keep the brass if you reload, and find a reasonable price to be able to afford those 2-400 round range days. Shoot a lot - it makes you better. Shop Pistol Ammo - Pistol Ammo For Sale | Freedom Munitions

 

There are many here who use Tula regularly and claim it’s great to shoot. But as you’ve read, there are reasons to avoid any foreign-made (read Russian or Chinese) ammo. Like a lot of other stuff they make, it’s mostly junk, especially since you can find quality reman’d ammo to practice with cheaply.

Steel cased are prohibited at most indoor ranges because they create a potential for fire as they can make sparks and any unburned powder can then light up. At least that’s the excuse the ranges use. I’m not sure that’s totally true, but then I’m not sure that less than 1/2 case loads of powder create anything but a potential flame front propagation issue. Still, I don’t believe they seal the chamber as well, and that IS an issue.

Look here for cheaper ammo that you can blast away with, keep the brass if you reload, and find a reasonable price to be able to afford those 2-400 round range days. Shoot a lot - it makes you better. Shop Pistol Ammo - Pistol Ammo For Sale | Freedom Munitions

Thanks for the sound advice. I appreciate it.

 

I’ve run thousands of rounds of 9mm, 7.62x39, .308, and 5.56mm through my guns and I’ve never had an issue. In fact, it’s been more reliable than WWB! So I’m not paranoid about foreign made ammo. I’ve also never encountered a range that didn’t allow steel cased ammo…it just can’t be put into the brass bucket (for obvious reasons).

I also do not notice a lot of difference in my shooting between my practice ammo (whichever reasonably-priced 9mm I can find) and my carry ammo (Federal HST). IMHO, if your shooting is significantly impacted by the ammo, then you should rethink your shooting regimen. YMMV, but the POI change between Tula and Federal is negligible for me…they still both hit close enough to do the job.

 

Cool thanks for the details.

 

If you're just learning shooting fundamentals, less expensive ammunition will let you get started.

That said, I never shoot steel cased ammunition. I don't like it in my guns. The potential for wear and cycling problems is there, and brass cased ammunition isn't that much more expensive.

There is a slight difference between 115gn and 124gn ammunition. The trajectory is different, terminal ballistics are different and the recoil impulse is different. If you're practicing the fundamentals, at typical range distances for concealed carry training the trajectory won't be that much of an issue - you're looking for consistent groups. Recoil management and followthrough will be the issue. So... start with the 115gn. Learn how to manage recoil and then move on to the 124gn.

If you use over pressure ammunition for concealed carry, always train with some of it in every training session toward the end of the session.

You might enjoy learning how to reload metallic cartridges. Check out the NRA course if your're interested.

 

Great advice thank you so much! And yes I am just starting out.

 

I agree with what @paulamora says. I firmly believe the larger the hole, the better it is for your side. BUT you have to MAKE the hole - no misses! Practice, practice, practice! Shoot a lot, indeed more than a lot.

.40 S&W has a theoretical detraction in that it is inherently somewhat less accurate than a .45 ACP. OTOH, SOME spreading of your “GROUP” tactically makes sense in that it hits more vital organs, and that translates into more likelyhood of the perp stopping his aggression. One round through the heart will kill the guy - you just aren’t sure when. THREE rounds through the heart don’t kill him any quicker. But three rounds, one in the heart and one in each lung may be the ticket. You get lucky and hit the spinal column and fight’s over.

 

Are you sure you’re replying to the correct thread? I’m trying to look @paulrmola post you mentioned but I didn’t see any of his posts here in this thread 😆.

 

Like everyone else here, I consider cost but I focus more on “difference of cost” on things….. and for me, the cost delta between low grade, potentially damaging, and/or dirty ammo, versus high grade clean ammo is small enough that I stick with the good stuff.

 

The difference in POI with different ammo at combat distances is completely irrelevant. You'll probably be shooting at arms length and any discussion about ammo accuracy in that circumstance is laughable. Train with cheap stuff and carry the good stuff.

Shoot enough of your carry ammo that you're confident it functions well in your pistol before you decide to carry it or use it as your nightstand gun. My personal standard is I won't carry it until I've shot at least 10 full magazines in a row using my defense ammo without any failures of any kind.

 

Right on. Thanks for the advice makes senses to me...

 

Here’s an article about steel vs brass, pros and cons

Steel vs Brass Ammo: The Great Ammunition Debate by Ammo.com

Steel case ammo is some of the least expensive ammo on the market. But is brass cased ammo better for your firearm? Our experts take on steel vs brass ammo now!

ammo.com

 

Never had a problem with steel case ammo on my XL, in fact I'm doing the same, training with it and carrying Hornady Critical Defense.
I was abble to score a lot of Winchester USA FORGED ammo (steel case) and train with it all the time, no problems and decent ammo for decent price.
No needs for special cleaning products or more time cleaning, very normal accuracy and works fine using 12 and 15 rounders mags. I say go for it and enjoy!

 

I'm a sports shooter so that's where I'm coming from. As already mentioned, there may be a difference in point of impact but at self defense distances that's most likely not a problem.
What I could envision being a problem, however, is the different feel of a heavier bullet. The recoil impulse may be different to such a degree that you hesitate for just a split second, even thinking it was a squib. This of course if you are not already familiar with the feel of the recoil when using the heavier bullet.
Train with the cheap stuff but make sure you are aware of what your carry ammo feels like.

 

I'll echo what others have said...spend the money on a box of your preferred carry ammo and shoot it through your gun to make sure it runs. Some folks have an almost religious view of their carry ammo. They treat it as if it's some sort of sacred object that must be kept pristine and worshiped. In reality, it's just really expensive ammo. It's not something you want to go shoot 500 rounds of on a Saturday morning, but you probably should put 20 rounds or so a month through your carry gun just to keep sharp shooting that particular ammo in your particular gun.

I typically look for my preferred carry ammo (Underwood Extreme Defender or Hornady Critical Duty) to go on sale. The Critical Duty can sometimes be picked up fairly reasonalbly for a box of 50. The Underwood is always more than a buck a round...it's not cheap...but it shoots well and from the research I've done, performs very well. I will run a mag of it through my carry gun every now and then. If I end up with a pile of it because I rotated some out of my carry gun, I might shoot more of them.

The important thing to remember is that carry or "defensive" ammo....is just ammo. Shoot it! Practice with it! Don't just collect it and let it sit in your ammo pile.

 

I practice with 124 and carry 124. I like consistency.