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I have requested an RMA from Midwest to return my rail. Both the 516s that I was considering (14.5 and/or 10) have bayonet lugs. I suppose I could send one of the barrels to my friend John Thomas at Retro Arms Works to have the lug professionally removed. But there would be a cost for that, and frankly I don't dislike the quad rails to the degree that I am motivated to do that. So back it will go for a refund.
 
Well, I had to take a die grinder and cutoff wheel to what was left of my bayonet lug, but I got it mounted.

Would I do it again? Probably not. Unless you absolutely need M-lok, I don't think the juice is worth the squeeze, at least not for me.

Here it is on my 11.5" franken gun SBR.

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I put it on. I find it to be a big improvement. Mine didn’t have bayo lug. Highly recommend. I used locked thread. I read the directions after the fact and it said do not use lock thread of any kind? Anyone have a reason why not?
 

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I put it on. I find it to be a big improvement. Mine didn’t have bayo lug. Highly recommend. I used locked thread. I read the directions after the fact and it said do not use lock thread of any kind? Anyone have a reason why not?
That looks nice. Unfortunately mine did have the bayonet lug and the rail is now on its way back to Midwest (no problem getting an RMA).
 
I put it on. I find it to be a big improvement. Mine didn’t have bayo lug. Highly recommend. I used locked thread. I read the directions after the fact and it said do not use lock thread of any kind? Anyone have a reason why not?

Just a guess, but since the hand guard is aluminum, I'll bet there is a helicoil insert in the hole for the steel screws. You can end up pulling the coil insert out with the screws if you lock tight them in.
 
I put it on. I find it to be a big improvement. Mine didn’t have bayo lug. Highly recommend. I used locked thread. I read the directions after the fact and it said do not use lock thread of any kind? Anyone have a reason why not?

Just a guess, but since the hand guard is aluminum, I'll bet there is a helicoil insert in the hole for the steel screws. You can end up pulling the coil insert out with the screws if you lock tight them in.
Yes there was coil insert. Oh well, to late now..lol. Thanks for explaining.
 
Well, I had to take a die grinder and cutoff wheel to what was left of my bayonet lug, but I got it mounted.

Would I do it again? Probably not. Unless you absolutely need M-lok, I don't think the juice is worth the squeeze, at least not for me.

Here it is on my 11.5" franken gun SBR.

Image


Image
did you use a full size cutoff wheel or one on a dremal? my rail is on its way and I have a bayonet lug but I'm pretty determined to get it on there. did you blue the exposed steel or anything?
 
did you use a full size cutoff wheel or one on a dremal? my rail is on its way and I have a bayonet lug but I'm pretty determined to get it on there. did you blue the exposed steel or anything?
I used a 3" wheel in a pneumatic die grinder, but you could do it with a Dremel, or even a hacksaw.

For right now I just put some cold blue on the exposed metal. I'll clean it up with the belt sander eventually, the probably just shoot some Aluma-hyde, or even just high temp spray paint on there.
 
Is it lighter? Weight of it compared to Sig Quad Rail
 
I got mine today and installed it.
I a little surprised that it’s really not much lighter. I will say it feels so much better to manipulate the weapon that it is worth it. That being said, the Lancer isn’t much lighter, but way more expensive. I’m glad I went MI.
 
I think it’s cool but too late for me, I have my 516 with vg and rail guards on there. 160 something more that doesn’t really give me more other than the opportunity to pay more for accessories and stuff. 160 can go towards optics, ammo, or other things.
 
I think it’s cool but too late for me, I have my 516 with vg and rail guards on there. 160 something more that doesn’t really give me more other than the opportunity to pay more for accessories and stuff. 160 can go towards optics, ammo, or other things.
you should’ve already had optics at this point and other things. If it’s to late then you already had your 516 for a bit. There is nothing wrong with the quad rail at all but the MI Mlok is a great move. Slimmer, a little lighter and more ergonomic.
 
I think it’s cool but too late for me, I have my 516 with vg and rail guards on there. 160 something more that doesn’t really give me more other than the opportunity to pay more for accessories and stuff. 160 can go towards optics, ammo, or other things.
you should’ve already had optics at this point and other things. If it’s to late then you already had your 516 for a bit. There is nothing wrong with the quad rail at all but the MI Mlok is a great move. Slimmer, a little lighter and more ergonomic.
That’s correct. Optics for future projects to be more precise. I agree on the MI rail, it definitely looks cool, just not needed for how my 516 is set up. The problem I see is that the weight of the 516 in front is more the gas system than the actual rails, like the other poster mentioned. My Daniel Defense 16” upper has longer 12” quad rails and feels pounds lighter than either of my 516s (14.5 has the longer rails). That DD upper feels slim and light enough that mlock seems unnecessary unless you are small hands and statured, which I’m not. My 15” DD keymod rail on rifle length system is great but not any better than the quads in the 16”, but it probably saves some weight on the longer system. But to each his own.
 
I think it’s cool but too late for me, I have my 516 with vg and rail guards on there. 160 something more that doesn’t really give me more other than the opportunity to pay more for accessories and stuff. 160 can go towards optics, ammo, or other things.
you should’ve already had optics at this point and other things. If it’s to late then you already had your 516 for a bit. There is nothing wrong with the quad rail at all but the MI Mlok is a great move. Slimmer, a little lighter and more ergonomic.
That’s correct. Optics for future projects to be more precise. I agree on the MI rail, it definitely looks cool, just not needed for how my 516 is set up. The problem I see is that the weight of the 516 in front is more the gas system than the actual rails, like the other poster mentioned. My Daniel Defense 16” upper has longer 12” quad rails and feels pounds lighter than either of my 516s (14.5 has the longer rails). That DD upper feels slim and light enough that mlock seems unnecessary unless you are small hands and statured, which I’m not. My 15” DD keymod rail on rifle length system is great but not any better than the quads in the 16”, but it probably saves some weight on the longer system. But to each his own.
I agree with you about the weight being the gas system. You can’t really compare it to a DI in weight. I like the 516 a lot but is it better then a DI of Colt or DD??? I don’t think so. I just like many different weapons.
 
I agree with you about the weight being the gas system. You can’t really compare it to a DI in weight. I like the 516 a lot but is it better then a DI of Colt or DD??? I don’t think so. I just like many different weapons.
I compared the MCX legacy to the 516, and MCX felt more balanced and lighter..
 
wow the MI rail is a massive improvement in my opinion. way slimmer and easier to hold. only took me about 15 min to use a cutoff wheel on my dremal to take the bayonet lug off. easy and well worth it for how much better this rail is then the stock quad rail.
 
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