[Wulfmann]

You can find a powder that will work with all 3 and do a good job.

Many powder like W231 (HP38 is actually W231 in a different labeled can) or Bullseye etc will give you more loads per pound and are fine for plinking but if you want to duplicate factory velocities you need to check the data and fine the right powder to accomplish that.

Power pistol will give you at least 100FPS (so the book says, I see 150FPS more with PP) more velocity than say W231 at the same pressure but uses more powder per load so cost maybe a half cent more to load per round

Alliant Power Pistol may be the best powder to load 9MM, 40 and 357 and do so very well for all 3 calibers

Buy a good reloading manual and if you can find a 20 year old manual buy that.
The latest manuals have been edited by lawyers so many "max loads" are not really "max loads"

And all metal Sig like the P226/229 can easily handle max loads but smaller plastic pistol will not take the equal recoil

 

[Wulfmann]

Also found a Lyman from 1970.

I recently bought out a reloader of 45 years and got a mint 1970 Lyman's manual and gave it to a guy who collects all kinds of old things. I use Speer# 12 (1994) as my old source and have a few newer ones. They all require starting and working up to your best loads

If loading 40S&W and picking up range brass please understand much 40 is shot and left from Glocks which have an unsupported chamber.
This causes the base ot lower part of the side wall to bulge
A full length sizing die does not restore the correct dimension and you need a "pull thru die" (about $90.00) to restore the correct case dimensions.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2...ct/231187/redding-g-rx-carbide-base-sizing-die-kit-40-s-and-w-357-sig-10mm-auto
If you use you own brass and are reloading for that gun with cases fired in that gun you are fine but range brass nope!

 

[Wulfmann]

9MM is technically tapered but that really does not matter.

One can not (well, I can't) detect the bulge in a Glock fired 40 case by the naked (or clothed) eye. A gauge will certainly tell you and when you try and chamber it in a gun with a fully supported chamber you will know when it won't go in far enough to close the bolt

357 Sig requires lube which makes it more like a rifle round and defeats the point of reloading IMO. Just too much hassle for a pistol round.
Some people size them twice by using a 40 die first then the 357 die and claim this way does not require lubing. I have not done this so can not comment

I don't shoot 40 or 357Sig.
I did get a bunch of stuff in this big buy out of a reloader including 40/10MM plated projectiles, 40 cases of which 800+ are sized with the push thru die and primed. If any here want me to list them on the classified section LMK

 

[Wulfmann]

The Lee manual has more loads than any other manual out there that I am aware of .

There was a new Lee book in my recent buy out and I am keeping it for exactly what F-LB stated.
I also have 2 Speer 1994 for old data comparison.
I check online data as my third source.

I also have the 49TH Lyman and Hornady 4th edition but will sell them both (I will likely keep the Vol2 of the Hornady as it is ballistic tables, always handy)
They just don't have many loads like the Lee.
Not sure why they ignore so many powders.

While I don't use Less presses if you are going to get one later reloading manual I recommend the Lee

 

[Wulfmann]

I would never recommend using an outdated reloading manual to anyone. I'd be worried that with powder reformulations, improved lab testing methods, different barrel metallurgy, etc, there would be entirely too much risk - and for what? A little less wind drift? A little less holdover? More bragging rights?

Let me give you an example.

For 223/5.56 W748 had a max 55gr FMJBT load of 28gr for 3313FPS.
The start load was 26gr for 3138FPS
Today that max load is 26.3gr for 3150FPS and a start of 23.1 for 2809FPS
That new max has a PSI of 41250
Seriously????
Look up 55gr loads.
You won't find another powder that is not over 50K PSI and some almost 55,000 PSI

You are certainly correct to start low and work up, It also helps to chrono the load

You refer to the most accurate load and for bench rest shooting that is paramount.
But what about duplicating factory loads for SD, combat, drill, practice to be like any of those???? Some of us want to replicate a factory load so when we use factory we are recoiling the same and everything works the same.
Some powder can be over max loads safely like say Varget but 8208XBR is a definite no no to go over max (particularly in a gas gun)
Some powders can not be loaded light like say 4831 which would be very dangerous to go below start loads whereas 4895 can be loaded at 60% case capacity (but not according to the book) and be fine

Always begin at start loads and work step by step upwards and never go outside start or max unless you have trusted advice (none of which you should trust here)

And never believe anything you read online

Alright where is the delete button :lolu:

Seriously, stepping outside the box requires much experience and even then someone to bounce it off who has already done that

Fools learn from their own mistakes; learn from the mistakes of others:judge:

 

[Wulfmann]

I used for the most part a 200gr LSWC powered by Bullseye Powder. I figured if I was going to get my gun dirty with lead I may as well use a dirty powder. Bullseye is very dirty but it is also a very consistent burning powder and probably the least expensive.

I used to use a lot of Bullseye. I call it "semi-smokeless" powder.

It is dirty plus it throws a nice cloud of smoke.

It is a great powder but I no longer use it at all because there are simply cleaner smokeless powders