Welcome from Texas. Did You disassemble and clean it first ? If so You moght not have put the trigger bar back correctly.

 

Welcome!

Pictures would be helpful. You say you see spots? How many? Location?

I'll guess that this is normal.

 

As suggested by Malicious Compliance, photos will help us judge your dilemma. Your term "frame' instead of pistol raises questions, on it's roots... as is this an original pistol, or a "build"?

If a "build" then source of the frame may be suspect...

 

I don't know what yours looks like, but this one has seen 25k rounds on the same P228.

 

Q... your frame is one large "silver spot" considering the OPs comment. the way I understood. I would assume the area around the Hammer Pin, where most of us grease...

 

The outward face of the trigger bars do rub against the frame. That is due to their design. There will be wear but you will never wear it out. Just put a small amount of grease in the contact area to keep the action feeling smooth.

 

Lube it up and shoot the heck out of it.

The disconnector tab will wear out eventually, but it will take many thousands of rounds before you ever even notice it starting to flatten.

 

Thank you for your responses. Yes it is a original gun.
Now I found out what caused the damage. The trigger bar has a sharp edge that cuts into the frame. I will have to buy a new trigger bar which is not easy in europe.

Is the gun still fine to shoot? Will this significantly reduce it's service life or reliability?

It's a shame that such a bad part ruined a beautiful gun.

 

No need to buy a new Trigger Bar, just grease the area on the frame where it rubs. The critical point for wear is #1 which is the Disconnect Tab, the other points such as the Sear Tab, #2 experience no real wear, as well as #3, which maintains contact with the Hammer Pin, by the upward pressure provided by the Trigger Bar Spring. #1 experiences the Slide reciprocating on it, so is another good place for grease. One of the greatest reasons to replace the Trigger Bar, is if it gets distorted by people trying to force it in, or out of the frame. As mentioned, wear on the Disconnect Tab, is tested with the Function Check, by moving the Slide out of battery, and the worn tab, allows the Trigger Bar to still trip the Sear. Then it should be replaced!

Grease it well where your wear is, like I have mine shown here...

As you can see, by my photo above, my P229 experienced the same wear as your pistol, by it's original owner, which was a law enforcement agency. What little wear you have there, will not affect the life span of your pistol. Just use a little grease, and you will enjoy years of dependable use.

 

Just to add, suggest you use a snap cap, for dry firing, and keep track of your dry firing too, as you seem to be doing. While dry firing adds cycles to your Trigger Bar Spring, as far as wear, here is a list, that we have to go by with common replacements.

 

What @Willard said.

One of the things I sometimes do on an action job, is use a granite surface plate with wet/dry abrasive paper to true up the surfaces that rub against other parts. Consider that the stamped steel parts are seldom completely flat and true, this is due to stresses and bending induced in the metal as it's stamp formed. Truing up the surfaces provides more bearing surface in contact with the frame etc. In doing this, keep in mind you don't want a mirror surface, one with a satin finish will have less friction as it holds more lubricant. These parts get greased, not oiled.

From a practical standpoint, the extra steps described above (except for keeping a bit of grease on, as Willard says), are a bit over the top. A dose of how good can we make this? Same with the little "cam" that's shown on the modified hammer pin in the pic. The cam does two things, it removes take up in the DA trigger, while increasing the bearing surface area for the trigger bar. I make these parts and don't offer them for sale. A similar mod is done by The Sig Armorer, who does sell them.

 

As an alternate to a snap-cap for dry firing, you can cut a foam earplug in half (crosswise). This'll give you two plugs to fit over the firing pin to soften the hammer blow. By using half a plug, it allows the slide to be pulled back a bit to cock the hammer while holding trigger back - this to feel trigger reset, without dislodging the foam. Dry firing lot, with neither foam plug or a snap cap as suggested by Willard, has been known to cause the firing pin retaining pin to break (well, at least on the legacy solid ones - don't know about later ones, but why beat parts up).

 

Sorry to hijack your thread OP but I'd like to ask the experts here; when the hammer is cocked, by lowering it slowly with my thumb while trigger is pulled. Does it release the tension fully much like dry firing?

 

Yes, to a point, and then you have the decocker too... but slowly lowering the Hammer with your thumb, normally allows the Hammer Reset Spring to take over tension wise, preventing the Hammer from reaching the Firing Pin.

 

All you need to do is to use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the edge of the trigger bar that contacts that area of the frame, then apply grease. Your gun isn't ruined and it will likely last longer than you.