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The flat triggers shouldn't be any different than the curved ones, of GGIs that I installed.

Pre-travel is easy, do it with the locking insert removed, so you have access to the set screw. Adjust in 1/2 turn increments, until you see the hammer move with the adjustment, then back it off to where it had been. You need to allow a minor amount of clearance for temperature and fouling. This amounts to maybe .010"-.015" clearance. Then you replace the locking insert, and do a series of 1/3 turn adjustments for the overtravel, until your hammer will not fall, then back off 1/3 turn. Don't allow the hammer to fall onto the Sear, as it could cause damage. This should allow enough overtravel for reset, again around .010"-.015" clearance.

 

Good video.

 

Thanks guys! Exactly what I was looking for

 

When adjusting trigger overtravel on the P-series hammer guns, it's important to also check the firing pin block safety. Hold the hammer back and pull the trigger slowly while pushing on the firing pin to check that the safety lever will move far enough to completely disengage the firing pin block safety. Also do this while "feeling" the sear release the hammer - this is done by holding the hammer so it rests at full cock but take most to the hammer weight off the sear by partially holding the hammer back. This further checks that the safety is completely disengaged. On some, older guns especially, it is possible for the safety lever to partially unblock the firing pin. The firing pin can then impact the safety block plunger, pushing it further up and out of the way. Trouble is, in doing so, the firing pin looses energy which can result in erratic ignition. It can also cause long term damage to the safety plunger.

I've hand made safety levers with a bit more lift to correct this, but accepting a bit of overtravel will also work.