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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me why the last three digits of this W.German P226 appear to have been added after the fact? Other P226's I've seen of this vintage have all six digits applied/rolled with even pressure and in a straight line. What am I missing? First photo is the frame, second is the slide.
398637
398638
 

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I noticed that too, but no worries. At least the slide and frame match, and assuming the barrel matches too, it would be worth the leap of faith, for a lower budget project!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good luck. Other than the serial numbers, is it a nice gun?
No idea - would be my first Sig though :cool: - West German P226? Sign me up.

This seller has a few PD trade-ins that are DAO, so I'm trying to narrow down which one's I'd want. They're all thrashed to some degree, but it appears mostly cosmetic - surface rust on replaceable parts, finish wear on the slides.

I'm trying to follow any sharp edges susceptible to wear (anywhere two planes meet at 90*, basically) by eye and look for evidence of drops, gouges... metal that's gone and can't be put back.

I'll definitely replace the parts that need replacing, convert to DA/SA (short reset for sure) and keep the well-worn look.
 

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No idea - would be my first Sig though :cool: - West German P226? Sign me up.

This seller has a few PD trade-ins that are DAO, so I'm trying to narrow down which one's I'd want. They're all thrashed to some degree, but it appears mostly cosmetic - surface rust on replaceable parts, finish wear on the slides.

I'm trying to follow any sharp edges susceptible to wear (anywhere two planes meet at 90*, basically) by eye and look for evidence of drops, gouges... metal that's gone and can't be put back.

I'll definitely replace the parts that need replacing, convert to DA/SA (short reset for sure) and keep the well-worn look.
Having the pick of the liter - sounds pretty fun to me. Once you figure out which one - you won't be disappointed - great gun!!
 

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I would suggest going to the Buy it Now route, as the last time they had several "complete" P226s, they went fairly fast. That would insure you got your "pick of the litter".

I'm planning on bidding on a lower only, so the bid process is the only option. I may go for one of the two early "incomplete" units with the circa U 158 xxx numbers. One of these would make a dandy .22 conversion host, if nothing else!
 
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666?

When the rollmark is called up yonder you won't be there 😈
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would suggest going to the Buy it Now route, as the last time they had several "complete" P226s, they went fairly fast. That would insure you got your "pick of the litter".

I'm planning on bidding on a lower only, so the bid process is the only option. I may go for one of the two early "incomplete" units with the circa U 158 xxx numbers. One of these would make a dandy .22 conversion host, if nothing else!
I hit Buy It Now on U 415 666 - happy to enter the SIG club on a high note! My first SIG happens to be a model I've fawned over for years.

It looked like it had the cleanest frame, no horrible nicks or gouges. Seller is in my state so hopefully I'll get it soon.

Put in a bid for U 415 655 as well, which appears to be the whole gun minus grips.

Can't wait to swamp the forum with questions that have been asked and answered 1000x times before.

Let's start this off with a bang (or a groan) -

When all is said and done, I'd like to turn this gun from DAO to (1) DA/SA, (2) short-reach trigger, and (3) as smooth DA and crisp SA as possible, while maintaining a reasonable pull weight (not trying to make a target pistol out of a combat pistol).

1) What components do I need in addition to the short-reset trigger kit to go from DAO to DA/SA?
2) Will using all OEM components be satisfactory in regard to goal (3), or would I be better served replacing some or all components with aftermarket options? (Or, is tuning up a West German gun considered a faux pas around here?)
 

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I hit Buy It Now on U 415 666 - happy to enter the SIG club on a high note! My first SIG happens to be a model I've fawned over for years.

It looked like it had the cleanest frame, no horrible nicks or gouges. Seller is in my state so hopefully I'll get it soon.

Put in a bid for U 415 655 as well, which appears to be the whole gun minus grips.

Can't wait to swamp the forum with questions that have been asked and answered 1000x times before.

Let's start this off with a bang (or a groan) -

When all is said and done, I'd like to turn this gun from DAO to (1) DA/SA, (2) short-reach trigger, and (3) as smooth DA and crisp SA as possible, while maintaining a reasonable pull weight (not trying to make a target pistol out of a combat pistol).

1) What components do I need in addition to the short-reset trigger kit to go from DAO to DA/SA?
2) Will using all OEM components be satisfactory in regard to goal (3), or would I be better served replacing some or all components with aftermarket options? (Or, is tuning up a West German gun considered a faux pas around here?)
You will need a DA/SA Hammer, a Decocking Lever Assembly (Bearing, Spring, & Lever), to convert to DA/SA. A SRT Kit (Sear & Safety Lever), and your Short Reach Trigger. Since you are converting an original DAO, with no box, manual, or "test target", I doubt anyone would accuse you of desecration! I would also suggest converting to an E2 style Mainspring assembly which helps "smooth" the DA trigger pull. Use of a Sig Armorer Superstrut, would even enhance the smoothness a little more, in my, as well as others opinion. But you could try that as a separate step, later for "improvement"! While the GGI SRT kit, and possibly the Armory Craft SRT kit, may be slightly more refined, unless a competition weapon, may be considered overkill.

Currently parts are scattered in availability, check Midwest Gun Works for most of the parts, Osage County Guns has reasonable SRT Kits. Top Gun Supply could help round out what you may need, as well as Matrix Precision.
 
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