Variations in Sig p2XX series triggers.
Just a question about Sig triggers. I am trying to adjust my Sig p2XX pistols so that I have some level of consistency among them. it is one of my concessions to advancing age! In fact, I have sold many of my other brands of guns simply to have a similar manual of arms among the one remaining or at least to limit it to a couple of types. I own a Glock 19 because everyone should own a Glock 19. Right? The FNS9 and 9C are just really nice guns as yet undiscovered by many gun owners.
Here are some observations. My 220R and M11-A1 both have short reset triggers (both factory installed) and feel exactly the same in all aspects, double action, reset and single action. My 226 has a short reset trigger installed by the previous owner and has a little longer reset and a little bit of take up when pulling the trigger after the reset. The 220 and M11-A1 both have no take up after the reset.
My 227 is not supposed to have a short reset trigger according to the dealer but it is so close to the 226 in its characteristics that I wonder if it is worth it to install the SRT kit. I have been lazy and have not gotten inside the 227 to actually look at the components to verify that it is non-SRT as he dealer said.
My 229 and 239 both need the SRT kit installed but they are so different it amazes me. The 239 has a very long reset and lots of mush when pulling the trigger in single action. The 229 is in between the 239 and 227.
My question is does this variation seem normal to those of you who have experience with these guns?
I love these guns but it really makes me appreciate the consistency of the triggers in my various examples of the p320.
Here are some observations. My 220R and M11-A1 both have short reset triggers (both factory installed) and feel exactly the same in all aspects, double action, reset and single action. My 226 has a short reset trigger installed by the previous owner and has a little longer reset and a little bit of take up when pulling the trigger after the reset. The 220 and M11-A1 both have no take up after the reset.
My 227 is not supposed to have a short reset trigger according to the dealer but it is so close to the 226 in its characteristics that I wonder if it is worth it to install the SRT kit. I have been lazy and have not gotten inside the 227 to actually look at the components to verify that it is non-SRT as he dealer said.
My 229 and 239 both need the SRT kit installed but they are so different it amazes me. The 239 has a very long reset and lots of mush when pulling the trigger in single action. The 229 is in between the 239 and 227.
My question is does this variation seem normal to those of you who have experience with these guns?
I love these guns but it really makes me appreciate the consistency of the triggers in my various examples of the p320.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Put 1500 rounds thru before assessing triggers IMHO. But no amount of firing will change a non-SRT into a SRT.
I wonder if your 226 has the correct SRT part/install. Something seems wrong.
i'm a fan of consistency & limiting variables. So i use like triggers/sights on similar pistols. So my DA/SA sigs all have SRT. All my sig SRTs have the same pull/break/reset.
I shoot two friends' 226 & 220 without SRT and the difference is obvious (and annoying).
I wonder if your 226 has the correct SRT part/install. Something seems wrong.
i'm a fan of consistency & limiting variables. So i use like triggers/sights on similar pistols. So my DA/SA sigs all have SRT. All my sig SRTs have the same pull/break/reset.
I shoot two friends' 226 & 220 without SRT and the difference is obvious (and annoying).
Joined
·
9,114 Posts
If there's any question whether a gun has the SRT-kit, other than feeling reset, you can visually confirm by remove the right side grip panel.
These parts will be present if SIG's SRT-kit is installed. Note in particular, the extension tab on the sear - installed, extended tab will be at sear bottom on the right side.
![]()
Trigger "feel" on a production gun, one without the careful fitting of critical parts such as sear to hammer fit, will improve with use during dry or live fire. "Break in", consisting of hundreds, or even thousands, of rounds or dry fire cycles, will help smooth the imprecise and uneven surfaces in the sear to hammer interface - just don't expect miracles. The wear-in process will only slightly improve the fit between those surfaces, assuming the surfaces are properly heat treated and hardened. Still, the improvement form use can be discernable.
On a precision fitted gun, either during manufacture on custom guns or after market fitting (as TheSigArmorer would do), the parts will be fitted and precision aligned, often the positive sear angle will be reduced and a relief cut will be added to lighten SA trigger pull and eliminate creep. There will be no further need for break in beyond the 15 or 20 cycles the gunsmith might do. It'll be good from the very beginning and will stay consistently good over time.
Either stock or "custom" will be functional and safe - one will just be more good, a lot more good.
These parts will be present if SIG's SRT-kit is installed. Note in particular, the extension tab on the sear - installed, extended tab will be at sear bottom on the right side.
Trigger "feel" on a production gun, one without the careful fitting of critical parts such as sear to hammer fit, will improve with use during dry or live fire. "Break in", consisting of hundreds, or even thousands, of rounds or dry fire cycles, will help smooth the imprecise and uneven surfaces in the sear to hammer interface - just don't expect miracles. The wear-in process will only slightly improve the fit between those surfaces, assuming the surfaces are properly heat treated and hardened. Still, the improvement form use can be discernable.
On a precision fitted gun, either during manufacture on custom guns or after market fitting (as TheSigArmorer would do), the parts will be fitted and precision aligned, often the positive sear angle will be reduced and a relief cut will be added to lighten SA trigger pull and eliminate creep. There will be no further need for break in beyond the 15 or 20 cycles the gunsmith might do. It'll be good from the very beginning and will stay consistently good over time.
Either stock or "custom" will be functional and safe - one will just be more good, a lot more good.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
