Trigger adjustments
Hi!
First off, English isn't my native language so I'm sorry if I don't get all the terminology right. Anyway, I own this P226 X-five Allround (the old frame kind) with an SRT kit installed.
Overall I'm very happy with the gun, but there's one thing I'd like to adjust. At the moment, when firing the gun, the spot on the triggerpull where the gun actually goes off is almost right at the very end of the triggers movement. The trigger can move so that it almost touches the frame at the far back position and the hammer release is just before that.
What I'd like to go change is for the position where the gun fires to come earlier in the triggerpull. Is this something I can adjust myself and if so how?
Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
First off, English isn't my native language so I'm sorry if I don't get all the terminology right. Anyway, I own this P226 X-five Allround (the old frame kind) with an SRT kit installed.
Overall I'm very happy with the gun, but there's one thing I'd like to adjust. At the moment, when firing the gun, the spot on the triggerpull where the gun actually goes off is almost right at the very end of the triggers movement. The trigger can move so that it almost touches the frame at the far back position and the hammer release is just before that.
What I'd like to go change is for the position where the gun fires to come earlier in the triggerpull. Is this something I can adjust myself and if so how?
Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
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Sorry, I inteded to write SA but I must have missed it. 
Just to clarify, it's not the reset distance that's the issue. I want the actual position where the gun fires in SA to come earlier on the triggerpull instead of at the far back position as it is now.
Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
Just to clarify, it's not the reset distance that's the issue. I want the actual position where the gun fires in SA to come earlier on the triggerpull instead of at the far back position as it is now.
Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
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It could be done, but it would take a fair amount of work, and would require machining capability to make a new trigger or to modify the existing trigger (would also need TIG welding capability). If you are doing it yourself, it'll take hours - if you are paying to have it done, it won't be cheap. My first advice is to add some kind of additional back strap, custom grips or something, to increase the effective distance between the palm and trigger.
Assuming it's a DA/SA gun, you would have to modify the trigger to eliminate the pre-travel. However, instead of doing it the more common way, by changing the at rest trigger position with a pre-travel adjustment (see thread on Armory Craft triggers) or my changing the trigger bar stop (search posts on <trigger bar cam>). Instead, one would remove that pre-travel slack by changing the geometry of the trigger. In other words, make a new trigger or alter the old one so that with the trigger, at it's current "at rest" position, the trigger upper hole or trigger bar hole, is forward enough so that all the pre-travel slack is removed and the TB hook is almost snugged up in the hammer DA notch. When you start moving the DA trigger, no pre-travel, the hammer starts to move. Note that this may be problematic for some as the ergos well change, maybe enough to make the trigger uncomfortable for some people as the work part of the trigger pull will be much more forward and extended finger will start right off pulling 8 pounds (or whatever DA pull is on the gun).
SA sear break trigger position would also move forward, which is what you are after . . . but again there is another potential problem I haven't thought this through yet. The trigger normally hits the frame to act as a stop - some add an over or post travel stop. If there is one, the stop won't work after this mod unless it is also modified. If there is no stop (i.e. the trigger is "expecting" to hit the frame as on most Classic-p's), the trigger may continue to move the sear bottom forward too far, or perhaps the trigger TB pivot hole area would stop against the locking block - I don't know without eyeballing it.
It'd be way the heck easier to put a trigger shoe of some sort (they used to be popular back in the 70's) to move the effective face of the trigger forward, depending on how much change you need.
Assuming it's a DA/SA gun, you would have to modify the trigger to eliminate the pre-travel. However, instead of doing it the more common way, by changing the at rest trigger position with a pre-travel adjustment (see thread on Armory Craft triggers) or my changing the trigger bar stop (search posts on <trigger bar cam>). Instead, one would remove that pre-travel slack by changing the geometry of the trigger. In other words, make a new trigger or alter the old one so that with the trigger, at it's current "at rest" position, the trigger upper hole or trigger bar hole, is forward enough so that all the pre-travel slack is removed and the TB hook is almost snugged up in the hammer DA notch. When you start moving the DA trigger, no pre-travel, the hammer starts to move. Note that this may be problematic for some as the ergos well change, maybe enough to make the trigger uncomfortable for some people as the work part of the trigger pull will be much more forward and extended finger will start right off pulling 8 pounds (or whatever DA pull is on the gun).
SA sear break trigger position would also move forward, which is what you are after . . . but again there is another potential problem I haven't thought this through yet. The trigger normally hits the frame to act as a stop - some add an over or post travel stop. If there is one, the stop won't work after this mod unless it is also modified. If there is no stop (i.e. the trigger is "expecting" to hit the frame as on most Classic-p's), the trigger may continue to move the sear bottom forward too far, or perhaps the trigger TB pivot hole area would stop against the locking block - I don't know without eyeballing it.
It'd be way the heck easier to put a trigger shoe of some sort (they used to be popular back in the 70's) to move the effective face of the trigger forward, depending on how much change you need.
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Yeah, it's a character flaw, I get carried away and overdo it sometimes
.
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The OP basically wants to change the trigger reach, have the trigger release the sear a fair amount forward of stock.
Stoning a sear relief angle, which is what you are referring to, will not in any significant way, change that point in the trigger movement arc where the release point occurs. It will ever so slightly move the release point forward a few thousandths of an inch.
Stoning a relief cut on a sear is typically done to reduce creep and the effective sear engagement depth. Unlike most guns, SIG uses a "hook" sort of arrangement on the Classic P series, rather than the more common "pawl". SIG's sear engagement is not all that deep to begin with, and sear engagement depth is determined by both the width of the notch or cut in the hammer, and by the profile of the sear that rests on the hammer below the sear's hook.
Note: the above isn't the original picture for this post. That was hi-jacked by Photobucket. This is a similar pic though doesn't have the trace of DyKem (no big deal) - I had this pic handy and it'll do.
The blue stuff at the sear engagement is DyKem layout fluid so one can easily check that the stoning is aligned perfectly so the sear engagement surface and mates properly with the hammer notch across its full width. When viewed outside the gun like this, you can easily see how very slight the engagement depth really is - - and how very screwed up the results will probably be if one simply stones off that edge by hand without the requisite experience.
When stoning the sear to either change (normally reduce) it's positive engagement angle, or to make a very slight relief cut, I use Power Custom stoning jigs and fitting blocks. Without some sort of jig to hold angles perfectly, it would take someone way the heck more skilled than I will ever be to stone the sear freehand and keep the angles perfect. No way would I recommend attempting this without the right tools and either experience or spare parts to replace those that get goofed up.
And, when finished, I do a function test to include simulated drop tests.
Extra credit: Enlarge the above picture and lay a straight edge (piece of paper etc.) so that it bisects the sear pin and lays across the very tip of the sear nose - the part that engages the hammer. Now it should be obvious that the sear angle looks positive (i.e. angled into the hammer notch rather than 90*), but if you look carefully, you will see that the sear, at least that part adjacent to the nose or tip, the part that actually engages the hammer notch, has in fact been ground to be close to 90* to that straight edge bisecting the pin. This is part of a trigger job that reduces SA trigger pull.
BTW, I'm shaking my head as I type this!
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