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Tool mark on the takedown lever hole. Risk of cracking? Should I smooth it out?

1176 Views 18 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Sig007, 
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I've heard that sig alloy frames tend to crack from the takedown lever hole because it absorbs most of the recoil energy.

I have inspected mine and on the left hole where the takedown lever is located, is a small scratch, most likely a tool mark from the factory because it's anodized. I haven't seen that on other sig pistols.

I don't think it's a big matter but is there any chance that a crack would develop from such a small scratch?

Should I try to smooth it out with some sandpaper to be absolutely safe but it will also screw up the finish and look weird?


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12131
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T
If it's shot over 45,000 rounds some alloy frames will start to crack. You can have the frame inspected by a shop to determine if it is actually a crack, even aluminum. It's called flourescent penetrant inspection, and a lot of alloy wheels are done now.

I wouldn't booger up the finish over it, tho. They will to conduct the test, and it will require refinishing after a repair, which is usually a grind and weld. Since that doesnt exhibit the sharp edges of a working crack, keep shooting it. It's very rare that pieces will fly off.

Pics of all kinds of alloy cracks: cracked alloy pistol frame and repair at DuckDuckGo
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SURVIVOR619
I’m no engineer but given the location and depth, I would let it be. Presumably, the recoil forces in that area would result in friction with the TDL within the inner flat of the hole. Unless the TDL is burred or out of spec, that nick along the edge appears to be a blemish at best. Hope that proves to be the case and good on you for inspecting your firearm!
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Willard
That looks to be only a crack in the anodizing, and not the base aluminum. The only fear from a cracked frame, would be from constantly firing over pressure loads, and not replacing a fatigued Recoil Spring.
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RDS40
We carrieed allow S&W semi autos for years. While we did experience cracking it was always in the area of the frame rails.
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Bad Bob
That is a casting mark, not a tool mark. Leave it be.
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F
Bob,
I believe SIG "classic" P-series have forged - not cast - aluminum frames.

Pig
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jthrelf
This!!!
12131 said:
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Bad Bob
Flying Pig said:
Bob,
I believe SIG "classic" P-series have forged - not cast - aluminum frames.

Pig
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That may be, but it is not a tool mark.
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ThnkFrst
frb said:
I've heard that sig alloy frames tend to crack from the takedown lever hole because it absorbs most of the recoil energy.
Click to expand...
Anybody here ever seen a SIG alloy frame crack in the area of the TDL? I haven't.

IMHO, the best COA is to leave it as is.
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Bitter Clinger
If the coating is OVER it, I would put it out of my head and pretend it's not there.
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S
Flying Pig said:
Bob,
I believe SIG "classic" P-series have forged - not cast - aluminum frames.

Pig
Click to expand...
Bad Bob said:
That is a casting mark, not a tool mark. Leave it be.
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You're both wrong, Sig P series aluminum frames are not cast or forged, they are extrusions.
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Bad Bob
SIG Sauer said:
You're both wrong, Sig P series aluminum frames are not cast or forged, they are extrusions.
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12131
SIG Sauer said:
You're both wrong, YOU ARE BOTH WRONG! Sig P series aluminum frames are not cast or forged, they are extrusions.
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FIFY. Got to say it with authority and conviction. :LOL:
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S
12131 said:
FIFY. Got to say it with authority and conviction. :LOL:
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My big bold caps will crush your puny heads...
This was hashed over in 2019 and was settled.The general public is so ignorant of manufacturing methods and how things are built, its pathetic.
On another forum a self proclaimed muscle car guy was shocked that pistons were made from aluminum.
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downeyg
You’re kidding about removing the mark, right? Perhaps you should leave it alone, forget about it and move on.
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D
How the hell did you even notice that? I'm looking at a blown-up picture and I still had to squint.

A blemish that tiny ain't goin' nowhere.
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Sig007
it’s fine.. leave it alone
Or you can clean it and steal yr wife black nail polish.. Done 😆
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