SRT pinch elimination mod and it worked nice
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Many have complained and I agree the SRT trigger on the M11A-1 is uncomfortable. It pinches the finger and is downright annoying.
Some have had it replaced with the standard "fat" trigger.
When I bought a new slide my my 2012 (good deal from a member here) build it came with an extra SRT.
So, I started thinking why not just grind the end off that puppy?
So I cranked up the grinding wheel and started taking it down to where it felt right, filed it down to remove any roughness and dabbed so Oxpho-blue and wallah. well not so fast, now I had to take out the SRT and install the modified one. I have never done a strip of the frame so after a You-Tube on a P227 I gave it a shot and I admit this is not for everyone but I am delighted to have got the gun back together
Pinch is gone, the pinch is gone, thank God almighty the pinch is gone
Before I mod the new M11A-1 I will call Sig and ask if doing the strip down and modding the SRT will void the warranty
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Some have had it replaced with the standard "fat" trigger.
When I bought a new slide my my 2012 (good deal from a member here) build it came with an extra SRT.
So, I started thinking why not just grind the end off that puppy?
So I cranked up the grinding wheel and started taking it down to where it felt right, filed it down to remove any roughness and dabbed so Oxpho-blue and wallah. well not so fast, now I had to take out the SRT and install the modified one. I have never done a strip of the frame so after a You-Tube on a P227 I gave it a shot and I admit this is not for everyone but I am delighted to have got the gun back together
Pinch is gone, the pinch is gone, thank God almighty the pinch is gone
Before I mod the new M11A-1 I will call Sig and ask if doing the strip down and modding the SRT will void the warranty
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I wouldn't ask either.
You will possibly generate some confusion by using the SRT acronym to describe the SIG "reduced reach" or "short" trigger, because that particular term is generally applied to the SIG "short reset trigger kit", which is actually a modified sear and safety lever.
Your modification of the short trigger is interesting. I had one on my P229R for a while, and while it never actually pinched my finger, it always felt like it wanted to, and probably would have with very rapid shooting.
I swapped it for the Grayguns P-SAIT trigger, which doesn't have as short a reach as the SIG short trigger (although shorter than the standard P trigger), and a much nicer contour.
Your modification of the short trigger is interesting. I had one on my P229R for a while, and while it never actually pinched my finger, it always felt like it wanted to, and probably would have with very rapid shooting.
I swapped it for the Grayguns P-SAIT trigger, which doesn't have as short a reach as the SIG short trigger (although shorter than the standard P trigger), and a much nicer contour.
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As does guys just said, don't ask.
What you did could never be considered "causal" to any potential warranty issue . . . well, unless your modified trigger up and breaks in half, puncturing your finger most severely during recoil, and resulting in your tragic death due to shock and blood loss. Then they will deny coverage and you'll be covered only by about 6 feet of dirt and the tears of your loved ones. All due to your callus gross negligence in modifying your trigger without first asking, "Mother Sig may I?".
What you did could never be considered "causal" to any potential warranty issue . . . well, unless your modified trigger up and breaks in half, puncturing your finger most severely during recoil, and resulting in your tragic death due to shock and blood loss. Then they will deny coverage and you'll be covered only by about 6 feet of dirt and the tears of your loved ones. All due to your callus gross negligence in modifying your trigger without first asking, "Mother Sig may I?".
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766 Posts
Nice job!!
I wouldn't worry about calling Sig either. During a phone conversation with a Rep he mentioned to just get a stardard trigger, mentioned it would be easy to install. I didn't ask if armorer had to do it. Remember Sig sells replacement kits with springs and such to maintain your firearm. As long as it in Sig OEM I don't thing they care if you do droping parts, just as long as your not trying to do own AEP job or the like.
But all bets are off if you damage anything.
Wulfmann I would keep a spare trigger to place back to OEM if you ever have to send it back for work.
I wouldn't worry about calling Sig either. During a phone conversation with a Rep he mentioned to just get a stardard trigger, mentioned it would be easy to install. I didn't ask if armorer had to do it. Remember Sig sells replacement kits with springs and such to maintain your firearm. As long as it in Sig OEM I don't thing they care if you do droping parts, just as long as your not trying to do own AEP job or the like.
But all bets are off if you damage anything.
Wulfmann I would keep a spare trigger to place back to OEM if you ever have to send it back for work.
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I wouldn't ask, either. It's such a simple mod (when done correctly) that they'll never be able to tell who did it if you ever have to send it in for work. They'll certainly not be able to tell by looking that it wasn't done by a SIG-Certified armorer.
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The back of the trigger is where I get the pinch, not the bottom. Am I missing something here? It looks the same except the bottom of the trigger.
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^^ +1 I don't think that grinding down the trigger will cause any damage to the internals.
Being that the trigger is shorter, the forces that are working on the internals during firing are reduced (less leverage).
Don't worry, be happy.
If you have to send the gun back for any reason, drop an OEM trigger in before you send her out and good.
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396 Posts
Can you walk me through what you did? Altered the length of the trigger? I'm not following how this would eliminate the pinch between the back of the trigger and the frame.
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Unless you're dragging your finger at the bottom of the trigger guard when you pull the trigger?
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Best I can explain what happens to me.
I place the trigger probably right near the first joint at the end of my trigger finger. When I pull back straight my finger naturally pivots and the I guess fat part of the center of my index finger gets pinched at the end of the trigger travel.
I still can't gather how this mod would eliminate that unless maybe you took material away from the rear of the trigger? Heck if I know, you guys probably know much more than I.
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I certainly will keep an OEM SRT in case I had to send it in and there are no modifications to the internals just basically shortening the trigger by grinding from the bottom end to eliminate that slight curl or what feels like a curl because of the 90 angle it takes at the end so as you pull and the angle changes it pinches the bottom of the end on my finger.
Have no idea what pinching behind the trigger is. My finger is never behind the trigger
Notice the difference in the taper at the end. This allows a more natural pressure as the trigger moves and the tip angle changes.
Since I had the gun apart I replaced all three springs that come in a kit. (I am big on keeping spare parts)
Just popped over to the range 2.4miles, (guess why I bought this house) and wow what a pleasant difference just sweet and IMO how it should be.
As asked, using a grinding wheel I simple ground off the end of the trigger tip more than 1/8" and not 1/4" but doing it a little at a time and checking it with my finger feel. It is easy to take more off, putting some metal back, not so easy so go slow as it only takes a few minutes for the shortening.
I should add: I have the distinct advantage in having 3 M11A-1s. When it is apart having another (grips removed) sitting there as a reference makes it a lot easier to reassemble. (Any similar P2XX would suffice IMO)
Have no idea what pinching behind the trigger is. My finger is never behind the trigger
Notice the difference in the taper at the end. This allows a more natural pressure as the trigger moves and the tip angle changes.
Since I had the gun apart I replaced all three springs that come in a kit. (I am big on keeping spare parts)
Just popped over to the range 2.4miles, (guess why I bought this house) and wow what a pleasant difference just sweet and IMO how it should be.
As asked, using a grinding wheel I simple ground off the end of the trigger tip more than 1/8" and not 1/4" but doing it a little at a time and checking it with my finger feel. It is easy to take more off, putting some metal back, not so easy so go slow as it only takes a few minutes for the shortening.
I should add: I have the distinct advantage in having 3 M11A-1s. When it is apart having another (grips removed) sitting there as a reference makes it a lot easier to reassemble. (Any similar P2XX would suffice IMO)
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396 Posts
Could you please post a picture of your finger on the trigger both at full let up and also try to show it with the trigger pulled all the way back?
Lastly would you be willing to do this for forum members? (obviously not free)
Lastly would you be willing to do this for forum members? (obviously not free)
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I am not sure if you are joking.
Pretty hard to take a close up of my finger on the trigger without having my finger on the shutter release.
To make such a mod for anyone else I would be required to purchase a manufactures license ($2500.0 a year) a rule Obama made last year.
Even before that I would have required a gunsmith's license so sorry, I can not legally (and that means no way) do it.
Even for free if a local friend wanted it he could not leave the gun with me overnight.
I obviously have basic knowledge although IMO very limited but believe me when I say grinding off the end of the trigger and not having sharp edges is the easiest part. Removing the trigger and reassembly is much more challenging that the trigger mod
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Are you an opposite arm amputee?
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- stuff snipped from quote -
I don't think that Obama rule made it. Had that passed, it would have prevented me from selling a little gun part for SIGs I sell elsewhere than here, where such devious activity is verboten - (without paying a rather large fee - but not as large as that Obama one) as either fee is more than my gross sales.
There are no rules preventing the free exchange or movement of normal gun parts within the USA (not including little bits of suppressors). It is only the main serial numbered part (usually the frame) that is "the gun". You are correct that you cannot receive, work on, and return "the gun" without a proper FFL, unless the owner stays right there with you (I have a cot in my shop for overnight stays
). Making small parts, grips, barrels, whatever (as long as it's not the serial number part) is none of the gumnt's dang bidness (local licenses excepted if required etc).
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True, Bumper, but sending me your trigger and modifying is at the least a gray area and there is nothing I intend to do that is even remotely possible to violate the appearance of a ATF reg.
Some think if they believe it is not what they think it is OK. I take the position if I can not be sure 100% I stay away. Not worth the hassle
Some think if they believe it is not what they think it is OK. I take the position if I can not be sure 100% I stay away. Not worth the hassle
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I don't have or use cell phones.
I have a Nikon Digital camera which requires me using my right trigger finger to take a picture.
Even if I could set it up the macro setting is not auto focus and would be all but impossible to get a decent picture and IMO does not relate to any finger but mine.
Since everyone has a different length and thickness only those who have either larger, fatter or in my case thicker fingers will be affected by the unnecessarily long trigger and therefore the required results would likely vary as would the degree of modification
Hope that makes sense
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