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I bought a police surplus SP2340 in .357 a few months ago. I read how easy it is to buy a .40 barrel and change it out. While looking for a barrel online I ran across a whole factory .40 SP2340 slide for about the same price so I bought it. I talked to a local gunsmith and he said it would have to be fitted to the gun and test fired. After that he said I could easily swap the slides myself whenever I wanted. Does this sound right? It's a factory slide for the same model. I don't want it blowing up in my hand though. Because of all the civil unrest they're backed up 12 weeks on repairs. I don't want to be without it that long. Any ideas? Guess I should have bought a barrel. :huh:
 

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Is the .40 slide complete? Extractor, firing pin, sights, etc? If so, it's unlikely any "fitting" is needed.

You do need to carefully inspect it since it will have an unknown round count.

You could still buy it, use only the barrel and try to resell the slide.
 

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If it’s a complete slide/barrel, I also wouldn’t think any fitting would be necessary.

Interestingly, I just grabbed an SP2340 with a .40 barrel and a .357 barrel. The .40 is the “native” barrel. With the .357 barrel, it hesitates slightly before going into battery. So, I guess the barrel-to-slide fit isn’t perfect with the “foreign” barrel. But I don’t think that would apply in your case?

Regardless... this issue doesn’t SEEM like it will be enough to cause an issue while shooting.
 

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I bought a police surplus SP2340 in .357 a few months ago. I read how easy it is to buy a .40 barrel and change it out. While looking for a barrel online I ran across a whole factory .40 SP2340 slide for about the same price so I bought it. I talked to a local gunsmith and he said it would have to be fitted to the gun and test fired. After that he said I could easily swap the slides myself whenever I wanted. Does this sound right? It's a factory slide for the same model. I don't want it blowing up in my hand though. Because of all the civil unrest they're backed up 12 weeks on repairs. I don't want to be without it that long. Any ideas? Guess I should have bought a barrel. :huh:
No, it should be fine, normally the barrel needs to be fit to the slide, since the chamber of the barrel locks up to fire by tilting into the Ejection Port of the slide. If there is a "hesitation" as brought up by MattyD380, it's likely due to the hood of the chamber needing to be shortened by a .001" or .002", but may need to be deepened too.




If it’s a complete slide/barrel, I also wouldn’t think any fitting would be necessary.

Interestingly, I just grabbed an SP2340 with a .40 barrel and a .357 barrel. The .40 is the “native” barrel. With the .357 barrel, it hesitates slightly before going into battery. So, I guess the barrel-to-slide fit isn’t perfect with the “foreign” barrel. But I don’t think that would apply in your case?

Regardless... this issue doesn’t SEEM like it will be enough to cause an issue while shooting.
A swipe or 2 with with a stone along the front of the hood should take care of the "hesitation"... like here in "yellow" toward the rear... as you are shortening the hood that fits into the ejection port.

You can take a felt pen and "ink" the bottom of the barrels loading ramp, where it contacts the Locking Insert. If it gets rubbed off after cycling the slide a couple of times, you may need to "deepen" the cut in front of the hood, to allow the chamber to rise "higher" into the port.
 

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Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Though I feel like I might be a little out of my element in terms of filing the locking interface. Removing metal makes me... nervous.

Do you think some hesitation will cause actual failures to return to battery while firing? With any sort of slide velocity it returns to battery—only sticks if I gently let it rest on hesitation point.
 

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Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Though I feel like I might be a little out of my element in terms of filing the locking interface. Removing metal makes me... nervous.

Do you think some hesitation will cause actual failures to return to battery while firing? With any sort of slide velocity it returns to battery—only sticks if I gently let it rest on hesitation point.
It's likely not that much that needs to be removed, that's why I said "stone", and not file, just apply a light dab of grease there, and it will sooner or later wear in. Or in other words "round the corner"...
 
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