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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Barrel Fitting, a Reckless Approach

Continued from Post #11 :)

Originally posted here :lol:

Hello all, I recently got my 9mm Barsto semi-drop conversion barrel for my P229 357 Sig Legion. Per Barsto, if the barrel needed fitting, material would have to be removed from the barrel hood (section closest to the end of the barrel) and under the feed ramp.

The barrel would not drop into the slide initially. A couple swipes with a file on the barrel hood and it dropped into the slide. I installed the guide rod and a 9mm spring and tried to put the slide into position, but there was contact. So now I start working on the bottom of the feed ramp. Here is what I did for that:
  1. Take 4-5 swipes with the file.
  2. Reverse the barrel's orientation on the vice and perform 4-5 more swipes with the file, in hopes to even out the removed material.
  3. Mount barrel, guide rod, and spring, and verify if the slide goes into proper battery.
  4. Repeat these steps until the slide can be positioned correctly onto the frame.
I repeated these steps about 10-12 times until the slide was able to go into the correct position and I could actuate the take down lever. Total process took about an hour and a half.

I hand cycled the slide and noticed some resistance at first, until I added grease to the barrel. Once I did this, it felt normal. I did not have any snap caps, so I loaded a mag with a few rounds and hand cycled. Ammo flew directly to the right as I hand cycled. I think I am good to go, but I just wanted to verify with the forum if there is anything I need to do before trying it out. This is my first time doing this and a little nervous firing the first round. Please let me know if I missed anything. Sorry for the winded post. ;)
What he said :lol:

Here is a rough draft of some Reckless Bar - Sto Semi - Fit Barrel Fitting, pending some finer points from bumper.

Full Disclosure: While I do have the Bar - Sto DVD, I've simply been too lazy to review its contents :lol:

The problem in coming up with a true step - by - step guide is that significant variation exists in slide - to - barrel lockup. There is simply no way one can guarantee that these parts would align the same way each time with different slides, barrels, and locking blocks / inserts. Many a time, one must simply "wing it!" :lol:

While the underlying principles are largely the same, this barrel was obviously fitted onto a Glock :lol:

Let us begin! Go kaboom at your own risk! :lol:



Attempt to mate the barrel + slide and simulate full battery. Hold it against the light, note where the light shines through, as well as the areas of contact...



There's likely room for a Sharpie or some DyKem® Layout Fluid in this step, prior to forcing some "Witness Marks."



Give the barrel + slide assembly a decent whack to highlight contact points :lol:





Look! Witness Marks! File off the offending areas, a little at a time. While this step may benefit from accurate measurements using a pair of Micrometer Calipers and a Dial Indicator,...

...remember that this Semi - Fit Barrel is being installed onto a loosey - goosey pistol that will noisily sound off clickety - clack when shaken. Personally, this is merely an excercise in firearm fun - with the secondary benefit of extending the handloading life of my brass because of the tight chamber.



Once the rear of the Barrel Hood closely approximates the Breech Face...



...hold it up to the light and see how much material needs to be removed, and where.

If this were a true match pistol, taking accurate measurements in the previous step would probably result in a very uniform gap between the rear of the Barrel Hood and the Breech Face. That is, removing equal amounts from both sides of the rear of the barrel hood would have kept it centered and prevented it from "leaning" to either side of the slide. This obviously isn't the case here, but that doesn't really matter.



Give the barrel another whack.



Look! More Witness Marks!
Performed by perfesshunal weaponers! :lol:
 
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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)


File off some material from this area to eliminate any spaces allowing light to shine through.



Bettah!



That's the front of the barrel hood up there.

Shoulda labeled the picher properly.

Once the rear of the Barrel Hood plays nicely with the Breech Face, it is likely that only a little bit of material is preventing the front of the barrel hood from fully rising.



Give the barrel another whack.



Look for Witness Marks.



By now, you should have seen a pattern emerging...



Ohmigerd!



Let's whack it a few more times, for good measure!



One!



Two!



Three!



Yesss!



When "riding the slide," it should stop shy of a light tap into full battery; the above shot is simulated and slightly exaggerated.

Assemble the firearm, and attempt to "slingshot" dummy rounds - it should do so without issue, even if the slide was difficult to rack and / or the firearm was difficult to disassemble.



Even though one can rest with the reassurance of having proper tools (hey, that's a nice little Ruby Rod there!)...

NORTON INDIA STONES

NORTON INDIA STONES | Brownells

NORTON PREMIUM HARD ARKANSAS STONES

BROWNELLS NORTON PREMIUM HARD ARKANSAS STONES | Brownells

...the only tool I really used this time was the Ruby Rod as a platform on which I wrapped some 600 grit sandpaper :lol:

Personal Preference: Wet Sanding.

Masking Tape / Painter's Tape eliminates a lot of aggravation from unwanted scratches.

The light surface scratches on the other areas of the barrel that result from having inflicted "witness marks" are easily buffed out with 1200 grit sandpaper; again, with wet sanding.


Personal Opinions

1. The best barrels are the ones which don't fit from the get - go.

2. Do not file down too much material to the point wherein the slide is "smooth to rack." The slide must remain difficult to rack, and the pistol must likewise be as difficult to reassemble / disassemble.

3. Fit the barrel to the point wherein a very light tap from a mallet at the appropriate places is required to bring the necessary parts into full battery.

4. Do not polish mating surfaces no matter how much your impulses may demand it.

5. Fire a full cliiip clip clip clip, checking for battery each time - if done right, cycling the weapon by firing will smoothen and polish the relevant parts by peening. Things will "smoothen out" after around two boxes of ammunition.

6. Compared to Glock barrels... Bar - Sto barrels seem very soft.

Speculation

Even if we took material from the rear of the Barrel Hood alone, it's doubtful that any hazardous headspacing issues will occur. Within common sense, it's probably difficult to effect a catastrophic bubbafit, given how Bar - Sto specs their barrels.

Disclaimer

I no be tacticle. I no be alpha sheepdog warrier.

My firearms no be toolz, only toyz
:lol:
Bumper cannot add much to this . . .

Okay, a couple of thoughts. Edsel said go slow, that's not slow enough, go a little slower than that, take your time. Don't be discouraged if nothing fits to begin with.

Spend the few bucks on a small bottle of DyKem. Amazon sells it in blue or red. Both colors work well but blue is generally handier. Order it when you order your BarSto, you will get the DyKem weeks before the barrel. DyKem works much better than felt tip.

Remove DyKem with alcohol - I use denatured.

I've never treated my SIG like a nail. With DyKem, there's no need to whack anything with a hammer, just fit by hand, the DyKem, when dry, almost wipes off on contact - more finesse than a dinosaur with a hammer :)

BarSto says the most likely spot to need to remove material is the forward barrel hood lockup edge. On my particular barrel, I needed to remove material from the lug at the top rear of the hood.


Watch the video!

Very good, Edsel!
Thanks! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Decocker Shims


I swear, Captain Morgan stole my idea.
 
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
If your pistol has the "long" extractor, there may not be a sticky up yet for it, though.
SIG Sauer® Long Extractor Disassembly

 

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Edsel, it had been a while since I looked, but I hadn't noticed. Thanks, makes it easier when someone like yourself can conjure (Halloween?) up a video! It's a lot easier for someone to follow, than my words...
 
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Good video. However, he did not use SIG's new decock takedown procedure when he removed the slide. 'Sposed to decock the weapon as you are removing slide when it reaches what would be the in-battery position. This prevents stress on many of the guns with SRT (short reset trigger). Good idea to get in the habit by following procedure on all DA-SA P's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Good video. However, he did not use SIG's new decock takedown procedure when he removed the slide. 'Sposed to decock the weapon as you are removing slide when it reaches what would be the in-battery position. This prevents stress on many of the guns with SRT (short reset trigger). Good idea to get in the habit by following procedure on all DA-SA P's.
Thanks!

Edited the post detailing the SRT installation... :thumbsu:
 

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Edsel, considering this long "Cold Spell" it looks as if we are in for, and kudo's for your editing expertise, and you can find the time...

Could you do a separate "How To" on the Magazine Catch Removal/Replacement/Reversing, with emphasis on the "stop" quandary, to possibly help our "lefty" members, without "destroying" their frames?
 
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
SIG Sauer® P - Series Magazine Catch Removal and Reversal


@Willard - apologies for the really late reply...
 

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Thanks Edsel... too many "experts" want to play "Jack in the Box" by driving off the Support Plate, and play "Capture the Flying Spring", and forget mentioning the orientation of the Magazine Catch Stop.

EDIT: This is something that incar posted in a thread, that I think should reside here, due to the slight differences with the P239 platform.

See Post #9: P239 Armorers Question - Reversing Magazine Catch


In case of a "Whoops"... and Stop rotated... Installed mag catch stop on P229 wrong | SIG Talk
 
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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
SIG Sauer® P365 Complete Disassembly and Reassembly


If there's a better one, do share.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
very sticky worthy and thank you. Issue with making it a sticky is that when these videos go away--there will just be a bunch of links
There are a few online sites which facilitate downloading these videos...

I have copies of them all, anyway.
 

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Sig Classic - Disassembly and Reassembly of the old Style of Hammer Strut

I had disassembled my 1992 P220 to smooth the action, last night I was prepared to reassemble but ran into a problem, I couldn't remember the method I'd used to reassemble the "old style" hammer strut.:confused:

I had removed and replaced the main spring in my 95' P228 several years ago but had sadly forgotten how I did that. Additionally my hand strength has faded making a simple procedure once easy now challenging. fjgiie had explained his method to me which I would prefer because he has a jig he designed years ago just for such installs, but I lacked patience and the time to fabricate as it was 0300 last night.

I had hoped Edsel's dinosaurs would show up and let them finish but I eventually resorted to YouTube, who doesn't. I discovered The Rogue Banshee and he had exactly what I was looking for, the only step I chose not to use was the zip tie, great idea, I felt I had it under control, I did. Once I had everything I needed within reach I proceeded.

As I had the seat secured in the vice and compressed with my right hand, I inserted the old retainer roll spring. Everything was stable so I removed the forceps and with my left hand gently tapped the roll pin into the hammer strut half way, now it was simple to reinstall the assembly into the bottom of the hammer while securing the retaining clip into the frame.

Someone will suggest changing to the new style assembly as it is easier, yes it is, but I preferred to keep this, my first Sig and duty weapon from 1992-2009 in original condition. fjgiie himself prefers the "old style" and I have at least my classic in original condition.

Sarge1998

 

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I had disassembled my 1992 P220 to smooth the action, last night I was prepared to reassemble but ran into a problem, I couldn't remember the method I'd used to reassemble the "old style" hammer strut.:confused:

I had removed and replaced the main spring in my 95' P228 several years ago but had sadly forgotten how I did that. Additionally my hand strength has faded making a simple procedure once easy now challenging. fjgiie had explained his method to me which I would prefer because he has a jig he designed years ago just for such installs, but I lacked patience and the time to fabricate as it was 0300 last night.

I had hoped Edsel's dinosaurs would show up and let them finish but I eventually resorted to YouTube, who doesn't. I discovered The Rogue Banshee and he had exactly what I was looking for, the only step I chose not to use was the zip tie, great idea, I felt I had it under control, I did. Once I had everything I needed within reach I proceeded.

As I had the seat secured in the vice and compressed with my right hand, I inserted the old retainer roll spring. Everything was stable so I removed the forceps and with my left hand gently tapped the roll pin into the hammer strut half way, now it was simple to reinstall the assembly into the bottom of the hammer while securing the retaining clip into the frame.

Someone will suggest changing to the new style assembly as it is easier, yes it is, but I preferred to keep this, my first Sig and duty weapon from 1992-2009 in original condition. fjgiie himself prefers the "old style" and I have at least my classic in original condition.

Sarge1998

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kKxBRbRTME
Sarge1998, I've got a small pair of "Needle Nosed" Vise Grips, from my days of being an Auto mechanic (Carburetor Era), which work well in the dis-assembly of the old strut. I simply clamp the strut in the vise as shown, compress the spring, and clamp it off with vise grips, remove the roll pin, the control the seat with a large pair of pliers, while releasing the vise grips.
 

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Thanks Willard, it's good to have multiple options with what we have available, your technique now reminds me that is the route I went the last time.
 
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