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Am I the only person who cannot sharpen a knife? I admit I do not have the best available tools for the job but expected to do better than I am. My current and newest sharpening stone is a Fallkiniven DC4 which I can get an edge started but can never get a hair popping edge. My work buddies can get the same Case knife hair popping in no time with similar sharpeners. I am avoiding my other knives for the time being because I do not want to ruin them
 

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I use a Spyderco bench stone (ultra-fine) for my knives. I'm sure I'm repeating what you already know, but I find that it comes down to starting with a blade made out of a quality steel and keeping a consistent angle/pressure on the blade while running it across the stone. My knife rotation consists of 2 spydercos (S30V steel), a benchmade (S90V), and an old Zero Tolerance (ELMAX). Every single one of them has been sharpened on the same stone and is shaving sharp.
 

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When I have time, I use two Smith's wet stones - medium & fine - for my carry knives - or I send them to Benchmade two at a time for a free sharpening. I carry either 800S AFCK's [I have three to rotate] or 9051 AFO-II Autos [I have two to rotate].

Kitchen knives get touched up with one of these.

https://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpenersm-50090.html

Fast & easy sharpening to a fine edge.
 
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I take mine to a sharpening place, They charge $5.00 a knife
Even My high end kitchen knives and They put the angle the maker recommends.
My Wusthofs take a 15 degree edge while others are different. Plus they hand do them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When I have time, I use two Smith's wet stones - medium & fine - for my carry knives - or I send them to Benchmade two at a time for a free sharpening. I carry either 800S AFCK's [I have three to rotate] or 9051 AFO-II Autos [I have two to rotate].

Kitchen knives get touched up with one of these.

https://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpenersm-50090.html

Fast & easy sharpening to a fine edge.
I have an Benchmade AFO which is still pretty sharp because its not used much but I do carry it when I am not at work. The guards would flip out if I carried that into work. I do carry a smaller Benchmade mini Barrage occasionally though and its the one knife I really need to sharpen. I have debated sending it to Benchmade but made a challenge to myself to get it sharp on my own. I am using the 20 some year old Case as my practice knife after messing up the mini barrage
 

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I take mine to a sharpening place, They charge $5.00 a knife
Even My high end kitchen knives and They put the angle the maker recommends.
My Wusthofs take a 15 degree edge while others are different. Plus they hand do them.
If I am going to be near Smoky Mountain Knife Works I let them sharpen whatever I have with me at the time. I don't know if anyone locally does sharpening and don't want to take the 1.5 hour drive just to get a knife sharpened. My J. A. Henckel knives have barely been used except for one of them
 

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I use a Spyderco bench stone (ultra-fine) for my knives. I'm sure I'm repeating what you already know, but I find that it comes down to starting with a blade made out of a quality steel and keeping a consistent angle/pressure on the blade while running it across the stone. My knife rotation consists of 2 spydercos (S30V steel), a benchmade (S90V), and an old Zero Tolerance (ELMAX). Every single one of them has been sharpened on the same stone and is shaving sharp.
I might need a more fine stone but definitely need practice
 

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If I am going to be near Smoky Mountain Knife Works I let them sharpen whatever I have with me at the time. I don't know if anyone locally does sharpening and don't want to take the 1.5 hour drive just to get a knife sharpened. My J. A. Henckel knives have barely been used except for one of them
Man, they used to adapt a folder with a spring and bolster button that was absolutely fabulous. Great hunting knife, and so much handier with the button opening.
 

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One trick is to put permanent marker covering both sides near the edge. As you sharpen you can then tell if you have the correct angle and are removing the intended metal and actually working the cutting edge.
This is actually a wonderful suggestion ... especially if you are just starting out in freehand sharpening. For some 40 years I have sharpened on bench stones and still there will be a knife that has some funky angle and makes me want to throw it at a wall.

I regain my composure and break out the marker .. done!

I have three arkansas stones and one fine Diamond hone and one coarse.

Now having said all that .... About a month ago I sold off some tools and bought a cheap 6 inch bench grinder. I also bought 8" paper wheels. They come in kits and there are a few places making them and it varies in price.

Here is a good Youtube vid


I also bought a 3 pack of 8 inch buffing wheels. A yellow, white and flannel.

The wife uses the flannel for jewelry.

For anything that is dull but not torn up the Yellow buffing wheel with some brown rouge and I can make it shave in 5 minutes.

If its a harder steel or something that I negelegted for some time then after the paper wheels I do the yellow buffing and I can easily shave with it.

Its also fun as hell to do!!

You can get a cheap 6 inch grinder for about $50. I paid much more than that for my Arkansas stones years ago.
 

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I have a couple of devises that shape and sharpen the blade's edges aproximately at the same angle. Simultaneously at each downward and toward you... Stroke.
Given to me years ago , each by a different maker.... "CROCK STICKS". & some foreign made knockoff of similar design.

After spending some time and tens of downward strokes , the knife gets a great edge.
Some blades shave the arm and hand hair off , right smooth.
V
 

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Spyderco - Just like anything else it takes a little practice - It is all about angles.
 

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There's no magic in sharpening a blade. You need a consistent angle, patience and the correct stones. You need more than 1 or 2 grits. I don't own any boutique knives. The ones I own are pretty rough from the factory. You can get 150 grit scratches/gouges out with 1000 grit. On the other hand you're not going to get a truly sharp blade with 300 grit. I've got an old set of stones that belonged to my great grandfather. I can get equal results with sandpaper attached to a small piece of plywood.

As I said earlier I don't own any boutique knives, but I wouldn't get an electric sharpener near any of them.
 

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I have a couple of devises that shape and sharpen the blade's edges aproximately at the same angle. Simultaneously at each downward and toward you... Stroke.
Given to me years ago , each by a different maker.... "CROCK STICKS". & some foreign made knockoff of similar design.

After spending some time and tens of downward strokes , the knife gets a great edge.
Some blades shave the arm and hand hair off , right smooth.
V
My ex bought me one of those kits that had three sets of sticks that were each a finer grade. Used it a couple times but only on kitchen stuff. Just didn't get me where I wanted to be with my EDC's.
 
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I have the spyderco sharpmaker for YEARS. I have used it three times. Except for serrated knives .. I dont find it does what I want especially with large knives
 

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As I said earlier I don't own any boutique knives, but I wouldn't get an electric sharpener near any of them.
I agree fully, there is no way in hades that a powered sharpener is getting any where near my knives.



.
 
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I was gifted a KME sharpener years ago, and it has gotten a lot of use. Great product.

Many of my blades are convexed these days, and for that I typically just stay on top of keeping them well stropped (with compound) and not letting them get too dull to begin with before touching them up.
 
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