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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well.. the time has come.

After dedicated and reliable law enforcement service for a-many years.. my rear illuminated sights are coming off for one reason..

They don't allow my P220 to lock into my new off duty carry Safariland holster. The gun will sit about 4/5 the way into the holster, but won't lock.. because the rear sights are just a wee bit too big. Decided to not find a different holster and to just stomach the loss of my dear rear sights. Sad day.

They were illuminated but I ended up blacking them out with sharpie and rocking the front sight in between the valley.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would take a dremell to that holster after 10 minutes it will fit.
I really wanted to... but I found out that there's no way with the holster. The entire mechanism is attached with plastic inside and the entire length where the sight would sit... would need drilling. Ugh
 

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Kydex is a thermoplastic. Why not heat the area you need to stretch with a heat gun. Go gently, approaching 300*F should be good. Wrap the gun in cling wrap if you like. Heat the holster in the area that needs to be stretched until the plastic gets pliable. Get the gun in an let it cool. You can also spritz the outside it with water or blow air to speed the cooling - which should be pretty quick anyway.

Unless you want to change the sights.
 

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Kydex is a thermoplastic. Why not heat the area you need to stretch with a heat gun. Go gently, approaching 300*F should be good. Wrap the gun in cling wrap if you like. Heat the holster in the area that needs to be stretched until the plastic gets pliable. Get the gun in an let it cool. You can also spritz the outside it with water or blow air to speed the cooling - which should be pretty quick anyway.

Unless you want to change the sights.
I have used this method to allow my Sig 1911 to fit the Safariland ALS holster and it works great. Worth a try.
 

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echo52, I believe bumper has a good point, on use of a heat gun, and Jonzim48 has used the method on a similar holster. My only concern would involve heating the rear sight, if the "fiber optic" rods are not removable. Cutting up an aluminum "beer can" could provide a thin "heat shield" to possibly protect the sights, and give just a "hint" of clearance... for what it's worth!
 

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echo52, I believe bumper has a good point, on use of a heat gun, and Jonzim48 has used the method on a similar holster. My only concern would involve heating the rear sight, if the "fiber optic" rods are not removable. Cutting up an aluminum "beer can" could provide a thin "heat shield" to possibly protect the sights, and give just a "hint" of clearance... for what it's worth!
To be clear, I would not apply heat to the holster with the gun in place, or almost in. Rather heat the holster while empty first, then insert gun.

However, be mindful that many plastics have "plastic memory" in that when heated, they will try to return to their original, as cast, shape. This means your plastic area of concern may actually contract when heated, so it may be advisable to have some thin stiff material ready to use as a "shoe horn" (such as the hard clear plastic that is often used for retail display packaging). When the plastic is heated and pliable, then insert the "shoehorn" and gun.

Note that the "shoehorn" material is also a thermoplastic and no doubt has a lower flow temperature than the Kydex. That's okay, though, as it will stay firm in the short time between putting it in place and inserting the gun. There will be no risk of damage to the gun's sights. The clear plastic will not bond with the Kydex. If you have first wrapped the gun in cling wrap, you can immediately use water spray or gentle flow to cool the Kydex.

Disclaimer: I use leather holsters :). I've molded and shaped a good amount of plastic, but have not specifically done what I'm suggesting. Though it should oughta work.
 
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