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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had some spare time over the holiday weekend to finally tear down my Ruger SP-101 to do a trigger job/polish and install shims for the trigger, hammer dog, and hammer.

While I was in there, I upgraded the OEM hammer spring to a Wolff 10# spring. I didn't like the anemic feel of the 8# trigger return spring, so I left the OEM one in for a more pronounced trigger reset.

I didn't bother with the Cylinder/Endshake Shims since my cylinder seemed fine.

Shims and springs ordered from:

https://www.triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.html



There are several YouTube videos on how to do this, so I will forgo instructions. You can look it up yourself.

Torn down. I finally found a use for the excess ads from the week. :chris:









Lapped and polished the trigger return spring channel and trigger parts. See the shine? Note that it's hard for the camera to pick up the polished parts of some of the parts. That's OK, just know that it was done. LOL























Trigger and Hammer Sears





 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Fine sanded the shims




Figured that I may as well polish the whole pistol as well. It's not a mirror polish yet, but it's a good start. I'll go over it by hand over the next few weeks as a therapeutic retreat.







Pistol was put back together using Lucas Red and Tacky #2 for critical wear parts (sear engagements points, trigger parts, any rotating parts like where the shims attached). The DA pull is nice and smooth, but not too light to allow for light strikes. This is why I opted for the 10# spring. I have read reports of the 9# spring having intermittent light strikes, so I opted for the middle weighted spring. The 12# was too heavy and not much better than the OEM.

Grips are Pachmayr Diamond Pro (#02483). I like that it provides a little cushion under the trigger guard. Shooting magnums are a bit more comfortable with these.

https://www.amazon.com/Pachmayr-02483-Diamond-Ruger-Grips/dp/B00URUEIG0


It's shined enough to reflect a slightly blurred image. Look, you can see my finger reflecting on the frame.



 

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They are great little revolver just need a little fluff and buff when they are new and they will last for generations.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the great post! I have an SP101 on layaway at the LGS. Hoping to pick it up next month ...

Thanks for the kind words. The DA pull is really heavy and can be gritty on the SP101. It has been that way for all of the factory examples I've tried.

It is not necessary to go this far. You can simply change the hammer spring and call it a day, but if you're adventurous then by all means tear that puppy down and have at it.

Do be careful after the trigger group is pulled out. The trigger pawl has a small spring and plunger that wants to fly out. Do not pull the trigger when the group is outside of the frame.

These sites are good resources for spare parts in case you do loose something.

https://www.bevfitchett.us/ruger-sp101-double-action-revolver/awarningbefore-shipping-any.html

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/ruger/revolvers-ruger/sp101

 

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Thanks, good writeup!

I have used those triggershims folks before; they are really nice and decent people to work with!!

Handling a disassembled SP-101 is like handling an angry badger, with a mouthful of razor blades!!!
 

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I've been looking at one of them too, the 3" in .38 Special that CDNN is offering, as shown below. Owned several Ruger wheel guns years ago, and was pleased with their performance.

That was a nicely detailed report, if I pick one of these up, I'll have a good guide to go by!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, good writeup!

I have used those triggershims folks before; they are really nice and decent people to work with!!

Handling a disassembled SP-101 is like handling an angry badger, with a mouthful of razor blades!!!

MCarbo sells a trigger job kit too, but is missing in the Hammer Dog shim department and lacks the ability to customize the spring weights. I do not know who makes his shims or springs.

https://www.mcarbo.com/ruger-sp101-/-gp100-trigger-spring-kit.aspx





I do like that his site has detailed Ruger parts guides to aid the process. Very informative.

https://www.mcarbo.com/Printable Instructions/M_CARBO-Ruger-SP101-2FGP100-Trigger-Spring-Kit.pdf

https://www.mcarbo.com/2018 Ruger SP101 GP100/SP101-Parts-Orientation.pdf




 

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Outstanding! I'll be picking up a new 9mm SP101 on Friday. This is the first new revolver I bought in over 40 years.
I really kind of wanted the 9mm as well since I don't have anything else in .38/.357. Would I be able to convert to 9mm with just a cylinder swap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I really kind of wanted the 9mm as well since I don't have anything else in .38/.357. Would I be able to convert to 9mm with just a cylinder swap?
It's not as simple as only a cylinder swap. The 9mm (.355) is slightly smaller than the .38 spl (.357) projectile and the slight taper to the 9mm is also present. You also have to consider fitting, timing, and spacing of the cylinder as well. Even when shooting .38 out of a .357, there's bullet jump going on. Many precision shooters that shoot .38 exclusively buy .38 specific variants because of this. It is best that you get a dedicated 9mm variant for your needs.

Here's a good read for you:

https://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/23511-converting-357-9mm.html

http://greyarsenal.com/fouled-cylinder-chambers-from-using-38-in-357/
 

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Nice job! Couldn't figure out why I was getting hungry reading this thread, then I realized it was the grocery ads on the counter-protecting newspaper. The first time I went through the cosmetic counter for nail polish I got some strange looks. But those bright neon polishes really work, just remember to use the white base coat, it makes em pop!
 

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I just bought a 2 1/4 in SP101 and installed the 10lb Wolf spring and changed the sight out for an XS standard dot. I also swapped the grips for a Hogue mono grip. The gun is transformed. I was going to polish the hammer strut but it was smooth as a baby’s bottom.
 
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