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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I went to put everything back together I was having quite a bit of difficulty getting the hammer strut to seat properly in/on the sear.
I've done it a few times now, and it is always a pain.
Is there something I'm missing? Is there a trick or tactic you like to use?

Again, I got it working, but jeez.. The emotional roller-coaster was not what I needed.

My trigger does feel better though.
 

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Wolff or gray guns?
I use a 17lb spring in my p226, no light strikes with 9mm but I have had 1 or 2 with 40sw.
I would assume 18 or 19 would be better with 40sw/357sig
Can't say i've ever really had trouble with seating the hammer strut. I usually get it as close to the frame as possible, when it looks like its in the right position i push up on it slightly until it feels right, give the trigger a gentle squeeze to make sure and on the hammer spring goes. I think the hammer seat is the harder part, but using a flat head screwdriver helps.
Anyways, go enjoy your "new" trigger pull! And be careful if you ever decide to carry it, I'd always recommend stock firearms for reliability
 
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The 18# is as low as I go on my Sigs, just to be sure about reliability. Never had a light strike. I think you get more used to putting the strut/spring/seat in right the more you do it. Once it's in, it's definitely in and you know it so thankfully it's not 'slightly off' or the like..
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wolff or gray guns?
I use a 17lb spring in my p226, no light strikes with 9mm but I have had 1 or 2 with 40sw.
I would assume 18 or 19 would be better with 40sw/357sig
Can't say i've ever really had trouble with seating the hammer strut. I usually get it as close to the frame as possible, when it looks like its in the right position i push up on it slightly until it feels right, give the trigger a gentle squeeze to make sure and on the hammer spring goes. I think the hammer seat is the harder part, but using a flat head screwdriver helps.
Anyways, go enjoy your "new" trigger pull! And be careful if you ever decide to carry it, I'd always recommend stock firearms for reliability
Wolff. My 226 is a 40, and I read about light strikes w/the 17lb spring, so I went 18.
It isn't my carry gun, and I completely agree with you about keeping your carry gun stock.
I shot it for the first time (with the new spring) last night at a USPSA style match. I didn't do great, but my gun functioned properly! haha.
 

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Wolff. My 226 is a 40, and I read about light strikes w/the 17lb spring, so I went 18.
It isn't my carry gun, and I completely agree with you about keeping your carry gun stock.
I shot it for the first time (with the new spring) last night at a USPSA style match. I didn't do great, but my gun functioned properly! haha.
You can also get the "extra power" firing pin springs from wolff. I hear that helps with the lighter hammer springs as well, just requires a bit more maintenance. I have both and haven't had a light strike since I put the firing pin spring in. I would also recommend the grayguns trigger kit, super smooth with a super short reset, and I think the intermediate trigger is the best out there. Happy shooting!
 

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You can also get the "extra power" firing pin springs from wolff. I hear that helps with the lighter hammer springs as well, just requires a bit more maintenance. I have both and haven't had a light strike since I put the firing pin spring in. I would also recommend the grayguns trigger kit, super smooth with a super short reset, and I think the intermediate trigger is the best out there. Happy shooting!
I think lighter firing pin spring go with lighter hammer springs, yes? Or do I have that backwards?
 

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I think lighter firing pin spring go with lighter hammer springs, yes? Or do I have that backwards?
You can use either as a standalone. The "extra power" is actually a lighter spring, the extra power refers to how hard the firing pin hits. So yes, you are correct
 

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You can use either as a standalone. The "extra power" is actually a lighter spring, the extra power refers to how hard the firing pin hits. So yes, you are correct
Ah...gracias.
 

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When I went to put everything back together I was having quite a bit of difficulty getting the hammer strut to seat properly in/on the sear.
I've done it a few times now, and it is always a pain.
Is there something I'm missing? Is there a trick or tactic you like to use?

Again, I got it working, but jeez.. The emotional roller-coaster was not what I needed.

My trigger does feel better though.

One trick is to put the hammer strut in position without the mainspring. That allows you to insert the upper end of the strut angling it back towards the rear, with lower end held close to the back strap - this allows the strut to be tilted back a little more easily than if the mainspring is installed on the strut first, and helps insure it goes into position properly.

When in position, push upward on the strut a little and the hammer should move forward against the reset spring - if so, all is well. While holding strut upward, put mainspring on strut, then you can position mainspring seat at the bottom of the strut and push it upwards into position with your finger or thumb only (no tools needed - but you can use the Sig tool or proper size flat blade screwdriver if desired).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can also get the "extra power" firing pin springs from wolff. I hear that helps with the lighter hammer springs as well, just requires a bit more maintenance. I have both and haven't had a light strike since I put the firing pin spring in. I would also recommend the grayguns trigger kit, super smooth with a super short reset, and I think the intermediate trigger is the best out there. Happy shooting!
My 226 is a Legion, so I already have the grayguns awesomeness!
 

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My 226 is a Legion, so I already have the grayguns awesomeness!
My 226 with the new springs is a legion as well. 17# springs took the trigger pull to sub 3#.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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