I am waiting to see what replies you get. I have had a set of RCBS dies that I have never used and a boat load of brass. At the moment I am trying to decide if I build up a new P320 custom in 9mm, 357 or 40 for carry. I want to see how those who do deal with the neck.
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Reloading for .357 Sig: what’s your process?
Picked up a .357 slide assembly in 3.9” and am prepping for some handloads in this caliber. I’ll be running new Starline brass.
How is power pistol with 124/125gr pills? I have that on hand currently and see it in the load book.
What other powders are you having good success with?
One thing I do not have are dies in this cal. Any suggestions? I’m seeing some Hornady available but not too much out there as we all know.
What dies work well in this cal?
Also, since this cartridge is necked down, is trimming necessary at any time? I’ve never loaded necked down pistol brass but am looking forward to working with this hot little round.
Thanks
How is power pistol with 124/125gr pills? I have that on hand currently and see it in the load book.
What other powders are you having good success with?
One thing I do not have are dies in this cal. Any suggestions? I’m seeing some Hornady available but not too much out there as we all know.
What dies work well in this cal?
Also, since this cartridge is necked down, is trimming necessary at any time? I’ve never loaded necked down pistol brass but am looking forward to working with this hot little round.
Thanks
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
On my 550 it was
Station 1: De-prime and Size + Prime
Station 2: Powder drop
Station 3: Bullet Seat
Station 4: Crimp
Same setup on my 750 just station 3 does nothing.
This is using Dillion carbdide dies so no lube needed.
Station 1: De-prime and Size + Prime
Station 2: Powder drop
Station 3: Bullet Seat
Station 4: Crimp
Same setup on my 750 just station 3 does nothing.
This is using Dillion carbdide dies so no lube needed.
I wouldn’t carry my handloads, but looking at the ballistics it’s a no brainer. Texas DPS and Sig created a great round that penetrates windshields etc with nice factory offerings for self defense rounds. Reloads will be for range work.I am waiting to see what replies you get. I have had a set of RCBS dies that I have never used and a boat load of brass. At the moment I am trying to decide if I build up a new P320 custom in 9mm, 357 or 40 for carry. I want to see how those who do deal with the neck.
Too bad Sig stopped making them in the 320.
If you can find a copy of the October 2021 issue of Handloader magazine, Brian Pearce will tell you everything you need to know about reloading the .357 SIG. The article lists loads for Power Pistol for 90, 115, 124, 125, and 147 grain bullets. 8.0 grains of Power Pistol is a mid-range load that will generate about 1,300 fps with the 90 grain bullets up to 1,348 with 125 grain bullets. Max for the 147 grain bullet is 7.5 grains of Power Pistol for 1,233 fps.
You can have a P320 in .357 SIG, you just have to build by components. A number of us have done so.Too bad Sig stopped making them in the 320.
Yea, did not meant to imply that I carry reloads. You are spot on.I wouldn’t carry my handloads, but looking at the ballistics it’s a no brainer. Texas DPS and Sig created a great round that penetrates windshields etc with nice factory offerings for self defense rounds. Reloads will be for range work.
Too bad Sig stopped making them in the 320.
I used to shoot 357 almost exclusively, but it can be pretty snappy. I would like to find that article.
That’s exactly what I did. Thanks to Bajajames for the parts.You can have a P320 in .357 SIG, you just have to build by components. A number of us have done so.
I reload .357SIG for a P226. 7.80 grains for Power Pistol. Rainier 124 gr flat point plated bullet. They chronograph about 1250 fps with a standard deviation of 15 fps. I reload on a Dillon 550B with Dillon carbide dies. Some people recommend resizing first with a .40S&W die and the then 357SIG die but I found no difference in dimensions with just the .357SIG die. Hope this helps.
Resizing with a 40S&W dies does not change the dimension of anything - not sure where you heard that. However, if you do not have a set of Dillon carbide dies and are using Lee, RCBS, etc..dies (which are steel) you can size your cases first with a 40S&W carbide die and then use the 357SIG sizing die without having to lube your cases for use in a steel 357SIG die. If you resize using a steel bottleneck die without lubing your cases, you run the rick of sticking a case in your resizing die and that sucks...Some people recommend resizing first with a .40S&W die and the then 357SIG die but I found no difference in dimensions with just the .357SIG die. Hope this helps.
The recommendation is to use a .40 S&W Push-Thru carbide die to remove any bulges forward of the case head, which a conventional sizing die will not remove. These bulges are normally the result of firing in a Glock. Pearce discusses this in the article I mentioned above (Pearce used a Glock 31 to test his loads).Some people recommend resizing first with a .40S&W die and the then 357SIG die but I found no difference in dimensions with just the .357SIG die.
I have never encountered bulged cases in any of the .357 SIG factory ammo (various manufacturers) that I have fired in any of my SIG .357s. As long as I stick with normal pressures and SIG chambers, I'm not worried about bulging cases.
Pearce's recommendation is like putting a dressing on a wound that will not heal. If you are getting bulged cases while shooting in a chamber that is not fully supported (Glock) then you need to find another barrel for your pistol.The recommendation is to use a .40 S&W Push-Thru carbide die to remove any bulges forward of the case head, which a conventional sizing die will not remove. These bulges are normally the result of firing in a Glock. Pearce discusses this in the article I mentioned above (Pearce used a Glock 31 to test his loads).
He also states that 357SIG is a necked down 40S&W case - that is totally wrong. The 10MM was used as the parent case for the 357SIG. If you were to neck down a 40S&W case the neck will be too short. It can be done, but you run the risk of bullet setback due to the lack of neck tension...
OP - to answer your questions...
Dillon makes the best 357SIG dies - they are the only carbide dies on the market that I know of. They are expensive and you have to purchase on your budget. Lee, Hornady, RCBS, etc. will all work - just not as well as Dillon - in my opinion...
Power Pistol is a good all around pistol powder and it will make some good midrange loads for your 357SIG rounds. I use it to reload several different pistol calibers - just not 357SIG. Blue Dot is my powder of choice for 357SIG and 10MM.
As for trimming your brass - probably not. I have reloaded thousands of 357Sig rounds and have not had to trim any of my brass. I do check them from time to time just to make sure, but I am a little OCD.
Dillon makes the best 357SIG dies - they are the only carbide dies on the market that I know of. They are expensive and you have to purchase on your budget. Lee, Hornady, RCBS, etc. will all work - just not as well as Dillon - in my opinion...
Power Pistol is a good all around pistol powder and it will make some good midrange loads for your 357SIG rounds. I use it to reload several different pistol calibers - just not 357SIG. Blue Dot is my powder of choice for 357SIG and 10MM.
As for trimming your brass - probably not. I have reloaded thousands of 357Sig rounds and have not had to trim any of my brass. I do check them from time to time just to make sure, but I am a little OCD.
And lastly, remember the 357 headspaces on the case mouth (unusual for a bottleneck cartridge).
You must use a taper crimp die. No roll crimping.
You must use a taper crimp die. No roll crimping.
I prep my cases in batches. Clean, size/decap using a Lee 40SW carbide die, followed by a Lee 357Sig size die, then prime - all on my Dillon 650. Then label and store for a “rainy” day to load. As others have said, taper crimp not a roll crimp.
Good info.
Lube cases
Taper crimp
Carbide dies help
Anyone using a case Gauge To check loaded ammo? Which one?
Keep it coming.
Lube cases
Taper crimp
Carbide dies help
Anyone using a case Gauge To check loaded ammo? Which one?
Keep it coming.
I use one from TheShootersBox.com. Case / Ammunition Gauge (theshootersbox.com) And they're on sale right now for $22.95, normally $29.95.Anyone using a case Gauge To check loaded ammo? Which one?
I use ShootersBox also, good gauge . Down side, they check one round a time.
OP,
Reloading the bottle neck 357SIG case is not Rocket Science.
Most that have issues while reloading bottle neck pistol cartridges are attempting to use a projectile w/ too long of an ogive.
I've cast,sized,loaded,fired hundreds of 148gr dbl ended wad cutters in the 357SIG case.
As mentioned above,IF any brass has a rectangle firing pin/breech face imprint on the case head/primer from an unsupported chamber-
I made a push thru die 30+years ago for 357SIG,40S&W & 10mm brass to remove the case bulge.
Now you have the option of either a carbide or steel push thru die manufactured by Redding-G Rx to accomplish the task.
(suggestion- push thru die first & then resize/de-prime)
Depending on brass manufacturer & work hardening (times resized) neck tension may be an issue w/ bullet set back upon feeding.
I manufactured a bushing die w/ several bushings,aka Redding Type S neck die for bottle neck rifle case sizing 30+ years ago to size the variety of Rem,Federal,StarLine,S&B,PPU,WIN 357SIG brass in my possession.
I've never loaded Hodgdon powders in my lifetime so I can/will not mention any loads/data using Hodgdon powders.
Accurate #7 or Accurate #9 has served my personal cast & jacketed projectiles for 30+ years....all verified w/ a chronograph.
Yes,there is velocity variations/differences between SIG P229 & SIG P226 barrels.
Take NOTES on each & every caliber, case manufacturer,projectile,powder,primer used.
If reloading becomes a task & is not enjoyable....take up GOLF!!
Reloading the bottle neck 357SIG case is not Rocket Science.
Most that have issues while reloading bottle neck pistol cartridges are attempting to use a projectile w/ too long of an ogive.
I've cast,sized,loaded,fired hundreds of 148gr dbl ended wad cutters in the 357SIG case.
As mentioned above,IF any brass has a rectangle firing pin/breech face imprint on the case head/primer from an unsupported chamber-
I made a push thru die 30+years ago for 357SIG,40S&W & 10mm brass to remove the case bulge.
Now you have the option of either a carbide or steel push thru die manufactured by Redding-G Rx to accomplish the task.
(suggestion- push thru die first & then resize/de-prime)
Depending on brass manufacturer & work hardening (times resized) neck tension may be an issue w/ bullet set back upon feeding.
I manufactured a bushing die w/ several bushings,aka Redding Type S neck die for bottle neck rifle case sizing 30+ years ago to size the variety of Rem,Federal,StarLine,S&B,PPU,WIN 357SIG brass in my possession.
I've never loaded Hodgdon powders in my lifetime so I can/will not mention any loads/data using Hodgdon powders.
Accurate #7 or Accurate #9 has served my personal cast & jacketed projectiles for 30+ years....all verified w/ a chronograph.
Yes,there is velocity variations/differences between SIG P229 & SIG P226 barrels.
Take NOTES on each & every caliber, case manufacturer,projectile,powder,primer used.
If reloading becomes a task & is not enjoyable....take up GOLF!!
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
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