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Refinish or leave it be? Rail wear

1215 Views 20 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  powermad
2
Checked all of the worn spots on this with a multimeter, not a single one showed any signs of conductivity; a nice surprise

Is it worthwhile to try a DIY solution like Birchwood Casey or just clean & grease it for now?

Initially I was thinking to send it off to CCR for refinishing but may hold off since it doesn’t look like the anodizing has been comprised (yet?)

First “real” Sig in the collection after picking up a used mosquito years ago for cents on the dollar.

Gas Wood Auto part Electric blue Composite material

Gadget Wood Personal computer hardware Electric blue Gas
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It’s your own foot-print .
Keep shooting and be proud 🥹
Oh.. No kydex what so ever!!
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Just keep it well lubed and carry on!

Nice to hear of someone else using the multimeter test method. I had the same result on one of my P220's, where it was worn to silver but showed no conductivity with the multimeter. I interpret that to mean that the anodizing goes deep.
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I am on my I pad, so can’t paste it for you.
Here in gunsmithing P series is a sticky fully explaining wear on Sigs
Every Sig owner should read that, and the lube stickies.

I have been here long enough to remember all stickies were in one place.
The better ones are in gunsmithing
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Even on an I pad, I did find it

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Even on an I pad, I did find it

Thanks! This was the reference I found during the first search for more information on inspecting a used p226.

There seemed to be some debate as to its current validity.

The use of a meter to test for resistance appeared to be a reasonable method to determine if the anodizing was completely worn through.
Lube it and shoot it. Normal wear.
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The black is worn off of the anodization, keep on shooting your pistol and do not worry.
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normal
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Has anyone on this forum actually worn out a classic P series to the point of the frame being completely damaged? Shoot it like you stole it. My 229 frame rails have shown this wear marks since the first range session even though gun has always been lubed with grease
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Has anyone on this forum actually worn out a classic P series to the point of the frame being completely damaged? Shoot it like you stole it. My 229 frame rails have shown this wear marks since the first range session even though gun has always been lubed with grease
I had a similar thought after finding the same guide on GrayGuns site and a YouTube pre-purchase inspection series.
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Grease, shoot, clean, repeat
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It looks like new. Lube. Shoot. Repeat. Enjoy!
Oh yeah, clean when needed.
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The black is worn off of the anodization, keep on shooting your pistol and do not worry.

Exactly, think of anodize as a honeycomb grown from the parent metal. The process leaves honeycomb like openings in the anodizing into which the dye goes, then it's sealed closed. The thin color "layer" can wear off but the main depth of the anodize remains intact. The ohm meter test checks this as anodize is an insulator while the underlying parent metal, aluminum alloy, conducts.

It is important to lube the rails, and my preference for that is grease. Unlike oil, grrease tends to stay in place. Super Lube Synthetic grease is excellent for this as it's not messy and lubricates well (also recommended by Robert Burke "The Sig Armorer"). BTW, this is very important on stainless frame SIGs, as stainless on stainless has a tendency to gall. SIG uses different alloys for slide and frame to help prevent that.
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My rails are well more worn than that. Functionality is unaffected. This is normal metal on metal wear where the two surfaces are mating to each other. Oil or grease and keep on shootin' it.
Completely normal lube it properly and shoot it.
Search online for what well used service M9's look like. Much the same for an M16 carried by a villager in the mountains of Vietnam over 45 years at the time the photos were taken.

Anodizing is a surface finish treatment and doesn't have much to add to the strength and longevity of a part other than to slow down electrolysis. Consider this: worst case scenario and one that is potentially life threatening to an entire family - the alloy rims bolted to the cast iron rotors on the four corners of your family car. Even someone's personal truck - often no anodizing at all, certainly no grease, no periodic maintenance of the mating surfaces for 40-60,000 mile until a brake job. Not even an annual torque check on the lug nuts.

There is the same concern for using the milspec lube on the barrel nut to upper receiver on an M16 - yet one of those may not see an arsenal rebuild for 20 years, with all sorts of training, service in a combat zone, etc and likely some poor maintenance too boot. That nut is never removed unless there is major damage. I'm not aware of any servicing requirements altho the interwebz get a lot of posts over what grease to use building one the first time.

Anodizing can be redone, it's a batch process, it will restore a finish, but there is no guarantee it will result in a matching finish to another part. Those of us who buy lowers and uppers from different sources are familiar with it, and AR history fans can sometimes list the models that all came with mismatched finishes. In the day, M16's were originally grey, not black - it's just the amount of dye in the processing that does it, and controllling the inclusion is very tricky. That's why stripped lowers and uppers can be requested in matching finishes - pulled off the shelf different batches they may not be very close.

And after its reanodized it will start wearing off again. Slight amounts of dust - which can rate as hard as diamonds - will start the process all over again. Cerakote is good but only slows the process - if it's done right. One Marine contract for a fancy 1911 had hundreds returned, which was a historic sell off when they hit the market.

Oh the hurt feelz when the box is opened and they parts aren't identical. It's a decor faux pas for some where the military gives it a very low priority. Even matched they won't stay looking nice thru an actual deployment. They may even get spray painted in Coyote and some other color, then let it wear down back to black on the highlights. Army issued guidance to do that years back. I did a 6.8SPC in Foliage Green and its finally looking good. The matte clear on top is even giving it a yellow tint where I hold it.

Everything turns to rust eventually.
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