SIG Talk banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've mentioned before how the SP2022 has become my #1 favorite Sig over all others, much to my own surprise as well as others. The ONLY possible thing I would change about it after daily carry for 12+ months is if it came without the Picatinny (sp?) rail. While a lot of folks like and use them, I personally have never had use for one, and much prefer the sleeker front-end of a Sig that doesn't have a rail.

So, thinking along those lines, and the fact that the SP2022 is not available in a rail-less version, I am seriously considering the careful removal of the rail on mine. Since the pistol is fairly inexpensive to begin with, and I have ZERO interest in parting with it, I'm not the least bit concerned with any decrease in resale value by doing this. I only want to slick it up for my own personal satisfaction.

Anybody have any GOOD reason(s) I shouldn't do this? Please feel free to try to talk me out of it if you wish before I begin working on it, because obviously once I start, it cannot be undone. Obviously care will need to be taken since the S/N plate is located under the rail, and I wouldn't want to cut into that. Other than that precaution.... anybody got any reason to not proceed?
 
  • Like
Reactions: rlpryer

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,598 Posts
I am not an engineer .... that said, I think it could look nice in so doing the rail removal, but I wonder what it would do to the overall strength of the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am not an engineer .... that said, I think it could look nice in so doing the rail removal, but I wonder what it would do to the overall strength of the frame.
Should not affect the strength at all since all the stress is handled by the steel sub-frame. All that plastic.... er, uh, I mean, POLYMER front lower is a dust cover and rail, and housing for the recoil spring assembly. Simply removing the rail portion and nothing more should not affect anything whatsoever, as long as care is taken to not go overboard!
 
  • Like
Reactions: rlpryer

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
While modifying the frame of an SP2002 is certainly a possibility, you might consider just finding an SP2009 instead.

ADDED: a couple of years ago some SP2022s were sold with the "Swiss frame" from the SP2009/SP2340.
Yes, I've actually owed several of those, but since I bought this one new and know its full history, plus it already has night sights so no upgrades needed there, and it is confirmed by me to be 100% reliable and have an extremely sweet trigger to boot, I have zero desire to replace it with an unknown! :D
 
  • Like
Reactions: gc70 and rlpryer

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Should not affect the strength at all since all the stress is handled by the steel sub-frame. All that plastic.... er, uh, I mean, POLYMER front lower is a dust cover and rail, and housing for the recoil spring assembly. Simply removing the rail portion and nothing more should not affect anything whatsoever, as long as care is taken to not go overboard!
Agree with you 100%. Look at what they are doing with the 320s. Compact and subcompact frame on full size slides. With the frame metal well to the rear of the rail that is where the forces bear. By leaving the SN not much 'plastic' is being removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well since nobody has offered any valid reason to not proceed with this mod, I think I may start on it tomorrow if time permits. I have a ton of stuff to do, plus music to prepare and practice for Easter Sunday, so I'm gonna be stinkin' busy the next few days. I want to take my time and do a good job, plus make a photographic record of the progress to post, so I'm not going to rush it once I do start! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,985 Posts
While you are at it round off the pointy bit on the trigger guard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,631 Posts
Interesting projekt. I got a SP2022 on my want list but don't have a need for the rail either.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bronicabill

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,483 Posts
I'm here for the pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
While you are at it round off the pointy bit on the trigger guard.
Nope. I like the pointy bit on the trigger guard! That's one of my favorite features of the P226, and one of the things I missed on the P228 and 229... :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As you may have noticed, I did not get started later that day... or the day after, or the day after that! I've been totally slammed, including 12-hour days at work this week!

During my "down time" after work, I have at least been thinking and planning my cuts and angles and such, and trying to go over each move and step multiple times in my head before the very first one begins, since it cannot be undone once I start.

Thankfully after today I'll be off work the rest of the week, but then have a lot of catching up to do tomorrow (Thursday) on band music before rehearsal tomorrow night, and have to take my daughter to a doctor's appointment, so am not optimistic about progress then, but Friday looks MUCH better!

Again... stay tuned because I have decided I AM going to derail this 2022, but will do so slowly and carefully so as to not bugger it up in the process! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,483 Posts
Eh, if you bugger it up while cutting on it, just stop, reassemble the pistol and send to me for disposal and go purchase another. Repeat if necessary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bronicabill

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Eh, if you bugger it up while cutting on it, just stop, reassemble the pistol and send to me for disposal and go purchase another. Repeat if necessary.
You have first dibs on it! My FFL only charges $300.00 for processing and shipping, but otherwise you can have it for FREE... :p
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kenny D

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay.... FINALLY getting around to actually cutting on my gun! Despite doctor's orders for bed rest the next few days due to a severe sinus infection and bronchitis, I got bored, and in between coughing spasms decided to do some cutting. Naturally I didn't finish today as what little I did flat wore me out, and now I'm back in the recliner posting this while coughing up my lungs... :eek: , but at least it's a start in the right direction, and I didn't screw anything up in the process! :p

Also, I was too lazy/exhausted to get out my "real" camera gear for photos, and my daughter still hasn't located the charger for our "good" P&S digital, so I had to use the antique Canon digital that has a ton of distortion in macro mode... so if the gun looks warped, it's just the lens on the camera! :eek:

First up, the "before" pic prior to any cutting. Didn't even bother removing the dust from daily carry as it was only going to get dusty again!


Next up, following disassembly, was to use my scroll saw on low speed to remove the corners of the raised portions on the Picatinny rail. Approximately 45° angle cut with "looks about right" accuracy.


Now I laid the gun down flat on the saw bed with the blade between the remaining portions of the Picatinny rail and carefully sliced each one off, without cutting into the surface of the grooves between ridges.


Next step was pulling out ye olde Dremel tool, and between a high-speed steel cutting tool of fairly small diameter, and a medium diameter fine grit sanding drum, I carefully removed the bottom edge of the longitudinal rail, chamfered all edges, then smoothed them up with the drum. I also added a chamfer to the forward 'chin' where the rail once was to streamline it a bit and make it smoother to holster without catching on things.


Finally for today, and until I get back to do the final finishing work, I used a carbide sanding block to smooth down the bottom surface of where the rail grooves used to be and removed any remaining high/low spots, smoothed and rounded the edges better, removed any flashing left over from my grinding, then used compressed air to blow it clean before reassembly. Here is what it looks like so far (I still need to go back and do a little more work with jewelers' files in some corners, then buff the plastic to blend it in with the original finish).


Hope to finish it up Monday or Tuesday before I return to my new crazy work on Wednesday!
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top