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Question on trigger reset.

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I have a factory CPO 2001 P229 with legacy slide and standard trigger. When I test the trigger reset with the slide off the frame, no I don't allow the hammer to fall free, the reset is very short compared to when the pistol is together. I experimented with the trigger disconnect bar which would not make a difference. Then I experimented with firing pin block lever and I was able to change the length of reset. I'm not going to tempt it, but it seems that a slight modification would allow shorter reset without STR parts. I imagine if modified it wouldn't allow the FPB to clear the firing pin channel. Is that correct?
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Scottcc,

Not exactly sure what you have and what you're doing. "Standard trigger" normally means the thick trigger as opposed to the thinner "short reach" trigger - - but I'm going to assume you mean you have the standard *reset* parts in your gun. Okay, first, install the slide and here's how to test the reset distance - you probably know this already, but stay with me:

Dry fire the gun and hold the trigger full back. With off hand, pull or push slide far enough back that it cocks the hammer (you don't need to wrack the slide all the way back, but that won't affect anything for this test. Let the slide go forward. Now slowly allow the trigger to move forward until you hear or feel a click - this is the SA reset point.

Messing with the safety lever will not change the reset point when the gun is assembled and functioning as normal, but it will likely disable the FP block safety and still not shorten the reset!

If you want a short reset trigger, the two ways to get that are with a SIG Short Reset kit, or send it to TheSigArmorer for either the SIG kit for his QTR (which is saidto decrease reset distance as well, though not as much as SIG's parts.

The S R kit is simple to install, there are videos, takes about a pro maybe 5 or 6 minutes if not rushing things and a newbie 15 - 20.
 

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You have to follow bumper's instructions to actually feel the reset.

When testing the reset without the slide installed, you need to pull trigger, push down on disconnector, then cock the hammer. Now when you release the trigger it will reset. If you're not doing these steps, then that might give different reset points like you describe.
 

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I have a factory CPO 2001 P229 with legacy slide and standard trigger. When I test the trigger reset with the slide off the frame, no I don't allow the hammer to fall free, the reset is very short compared to when the pistol is together. I experimented with the trigger disconnect bar which would not make a difference. Then I experimented with firing pin block lever and I was able to change the length of reset. I'm not going to tempt it, but it seems that a slight modification would allow shorter reset without STR parts. I imagine if modified it wouldn't allow the FPB to clear the firing pin channel. Is that correct?
While your idea is sound in theory, the SRT kit that SIG sells includes a replacement part that is a LOT different from the non SRT part. I don't think you can get there from here and you will likely make your weapon UNSAFE in the process so I'd advise against it even though I appreciate your DIY approach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll explain what I did; on a standard trigger P series (assuming they're the same mechanically mine is a 2001 P229). With the slide off, cock the hammer, press down on the trigger disconnect bar, pull the trigger, it will not catch the sear. Keep the trigger pulled while letting off the trigger disconnect bar and reset the trigger. It will reset very short compared to when the slide is in battery. I've figured out that keeping the FPB lever from extending full travel I can manipulate the length of reset. I hope I explained enough detail. I'm in no way going to dremel on anything, I just found it interesting.
 

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I'll explain what I did; on a standard trigger P series (assuming they're the same mechanically mine is a 2001 P229). With the slide off, cock the hammer, press down on the trigger disconnect bar, pull the trigger, it will not catch the sear. Keep the trigger pulled while letting off the trigger disconnect bar and reset the trigger. It will reset very short compared to when the slide is in battery. I've figured out that keeping the FPB lever from extending full travel I can manipulate the length of reset. I hope I explained enough detail. I'm in no way going to dremel on anything, I just found it interesting.
Yep I got your meaning. I am glad your not gonna dremel your p-series. ;)

I tried it and see what you mean. Of course if I am doing what you say then the gun would never fire that way because the firing pin would be blocked. But yes, I believe that is essentially the same idea that the SRT kit does through different geometry of the sear mechanism.
 

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While your idea is sound in theory, the SRT kit that SIG sells includes a replacement part that is a LOT different from the non SRT part. I don't think you can get there from here and you will likely make your weapon UNSAFE in the process so I'd advise against it even though I appreciate your DIY approach.

As some here know, I've never let a dearth of knowledge or experience stop me from messing with things mechanical in an attempt to make it what I perceive as "better".:rolleyes:

That said, I've designed a number of bits to add to, modify, or replace the parts in SIG's fire control system (on Classic P's and P938's). When doing so, one should expect changing one part can, and often will, have an effect on another, changing timing, or some such. There are exceptions, of course, but it's a general rule.

All kidding aside, it helps to know what you are doing and *still* expect there will be unforeseen eventualities.

Some changes can make a gun less safe, or reduce SIG's designed in reliability tolerance, or stop the gun from functioning entirely. And a few, like the one below, simply improve an already great gun :)

 

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With the slide off, cock the hammer, press down on the trigger disconnect bar, pull the trigger, it will not catch the sear. Keep the trigger pulled while letting off the trigger disconnect bar and reset the trigger. It will reset very short compared to when the slide is in battery.
What you're describing here is a safety feature of SIGs that prevents out-of-battery firing of the round. There is a round notch on the underside of the right side of the slide that allows the disconnector/trigger bar to move up and the trigger to reset. This notch is located in such a spot that the barrel must be completely locked up and the slide closed before the trigger will reset.
 

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When the trigger is pulled on the standard reset trigger mech, the tab on the trigger bar that actuates the FPB and releases the sear must drop down below the safety lever tab and sear tab (pushed down by the slide acting on the disconnector tab) and then move far enough to the rear to pop up behind the safety lever and sear to engage them for the next shot. Clearing the safety lever takes more travel than clearing the sear because the safety lever tab is further back.

In the SRT mech, the safety lever is actuated by the same trigger bar hook that cocks the hammer. The SRT safety lever is always in front of that trigger bar hook so the trigger bar only has to travel back far enough to clear the sear tab to reset, hence the shorter reset in SA mode.
 

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A More Direct Answer to Your Question

I imagine if modified it wouldn't allow the FPB to clear the firing pin channel. Is that correct?
Yes, that is correct.

If the horizontal tab on the safety lever were shortened (rear to front) to facilitate a shorter reset, the trigger bar couldn't rotate the lever far enough to raise the FPB enough to unblock the firing pin.
 

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Remind me what those two pieces do, bumper? I know you've posted it before, but the memory banks are coming up empty.

While I'm at it, anybody know how to shorten the reset on a SAO P220?
The pin is the new hammer pivot. Not so visible in the previous picture (but obvious below) is a small hole in the reduced diameter end of the pin, which allows the spacer/cam part to go on then the pin end is swaged out to fix the two parts as one. The pic below shows the cam/spacer which removes DA pre-travel or take up. (shown with no grease or TB spring):

 
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