[kansascity45]

Interest experience with you new 229s. I've had similar loading failures with P224, but that pistol had several problems and was finally exchanged. As you mention, this sounds like break-in stuff, but I'll offer couple suggestions for ya.

Loading the 1st round on one of SIG's new mags can be a challenge with the strongest of recoil springs. You've probably noticed how difficult it is topping off a new SIG mag, and the slide must overcome that same pressure to load the 1st round. Typically, you'll want to use a slingshot motion to release your slide to give the slide its full energy on loading those top rounds.

Another important consideration for SIG 'P' series pistols is the amount of lube used for range time. I mean, only a light coat of oil is necessary for carry weapons, but that's really not suggested while busting 100+ rounds down range.

Here's a good note with some pics that may help with this perspective.

https://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/

Cheers

 

[KM1]

Thanks...

for the response Kansascity45. Funny you should mention that about the tight spring on new magazines. I noticed that too with the extra ones I bought for my first P229. I, literally, took 5 minutes to get that 15th round in two of the 5 new magazines I bought. In fact, the edges would bite hard into the rim of the round if I didn't put TONS of down pressure on the round as I pushed that last one it. Took a good two 165 round sessions to break those in.

However, my new magazines that came with my Legion where good all the way to the 15th round in the magazine. No such issue. Seems to be random with those magazines. Plus, I used older, already broken in magazines when breaking in my new legion that first time out. In addition, almost 1/2 the time it happened when 1/2 through the mag while running it.

As I mentioned, I could, with effort, after cleaning and lubing, get the gun to stick with a round if I very slowly and easily guided the slide in to MAKE it catch to see where there was resistance. AND the only time was right there at the ejection arm...between it and the face plate.

Wondering how long I have to go to simply attribute it to break in for sure....and expect the Legion to be reliable enough to carry. That is my concern. Also, whether I need to bring it into my gunsmith for him to correct the issue...like buffing the face plate, or whatever. Might also be a tight spring on the ejector arm as that, likely, needs to break in as well.

More thoughts welcome.

 

[KM1]

Thoughts....anyone else???

 

[Fardoche]

Legions are shipped with 3 mags.

Mark your mags to identify them and confirm it's not mag related.

How do you lube it ? Got pictures ?

I run mines with greased rails and oil on any "shiny bit".

 

[KM1]

Fordoche

I run mine as you...with a very light film of Mill-Comm TW25B grease, followed by oil. I clean and lube like this after every outing...once a week. Also, oil on any shinny spots.

The mags I used on its first outing were broken in, older mags. Did not use the new mags. Second and third outings...I used a combination of both broken in mags and the new ones. And the new ones are marked.

As mentioned in original post. First outing out with NEW legion...first 50 rounds...NO failure to feed. As it dirtied up...60+ rounds...felt it start to stick or catch...but NO failure to feed. Between 70+ rounds to 165 rounds 5 - 6 failure to feed starting with 3 on initial release of slide using release. Then toward the end, say 120 rounds to 165...2-3 times while running through magazine.

Second outing...no failure to feeds, same ammo, same 165 rounds, only one feeling round stick a little...toward end of session as gun became dirty.

Third outing...no failure to feed, same ammo, same 165 rounds, did (because I am REALLY looking for it) feel some resistance as it loaded round toward very end of session.

Concern is...want to carry this gun...NEED to know it is 100% reliable...thus my question on whether this is only and likely, simply a break in issue.

Thanks!!!

 

[Malicious Compliance]

Am I understanding this correctly? After your third session, a session in which you had zero feed issues through 165 rounds, you went home, cleaned the weapon and then tried manually cycling the rounds through the chamber, slowly and gently controlling the slide forward movement as each round chambers? If that is, in fact, the case, it is not how the weapon is designed to be cycled. The slide should be allowed to slam forward with the full force of the recoil spring when chambering a round. I would write off the failures in your initial range session as new, break in issues for who knows what reason. It seems that the weapon is now operating just fine, I would continue running the gun, get a few hundred more trouble free rounds down the pipe. It should then be considered good to go.

 

[KM1]

Malicious

I understand completely that cycling a round into the chamber in the manner I described, very slowly, is NOT the way one should cycle a round. I was using that technique ONLY to help determine where the round may have been getting hung up. AND...it hung up going slowly EXACTLY where it hung up during actual use, in the first session, when the slide is allowed to slam the round into the chamber as it is designed to do (as when releasing the slide with the slide release...and...recoil during operation). I knew this because the distance of the slide out of battery, where the round got hung, in all cases, was the same. So...I was able to look into the top of the slide, when at home, and notice where that round was in the chamber and on the face. It was actually hung up while the rim of the round was going under the ejection arm...and while sliding up the front face of the slide.

I am definitely leaning toward a break-in issue as the resistance/catching/sticking is diminishing as I go through each session, and nonexistent when the gun is cleaned and lubricated. Whether it is the fact that the ejection spring was brand new and stiff, combining with increased friction from gunpowder residue on the face and behind the ejection arm where that rim of the round makes contact, caused the issue...or something else doesn't really matter at this point. Just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced the same...as I have experienced it now with two different P229's, one being a Nitron...the other a Legion, purchased one year apart from each other. AND, from an experts point of view, when the gun would be considered 100% broken in and reliable for CC...which you gave some good direction on.

Will report back once I cross that 800 to 1000 round mark in a couple weeks.

Thanks for your response!!!

 

[variable007]

Your issue seems odd. It is probably you or something you are doing. Well made guns (especially the Legion) don't get "dirty" after a hundred or so rounds and start having issues. They are made to shoot and shoot and have no issues, none. I clean mine every few thousand rounds and i have no failures to feed of any kind. You need to grease your rails adn don't worry about being sloppy. Look at your gun and see where the wear is. Put grease on those areas and on rails. I use Lucas grease Sig sells. Seems to work. Probably any other good quality gun grease will work just as well.

What you describe with slowly clambering a round is normal. You are not supposed to do this. That is why it fails, rtm. Your failures to go into battery sound like a mag problem or your thumb is impinging on the proper cycling of the slide. Many feed issues are mag problems or improper gun handling. Slowly chambering a round doesn't tell you anything other than you are going to cause a malfunction.

I had the same mag loading issues you describe, my springs were so tight i couldn't get the 14th round in easily. The stiffness of the mags loosened up after about three full 15 round loads were shot through them. I use a mag loader now to save my fingers when i shoot.

 

[Truckie]

I had Sig replace mags under warranty and got the Italy mags and the stress of loading 15...is gone...I had same issue with not going into battery even after new mags... Found it was lazy slide rack...these guns have closer tolerance than my Glock or XD Mod2..and it was my lazy habit from those guns.. causing issue....give it a pull back and LET GO... I greased with Lucas gun grease and got even better

 

[bumper]

Two things:

1) use more grease on your slide rails, barrel, top of frame. When you put the slide back on the gun, and rack the slide a time or two, lock the slide back and remove any grease accumulated on the rear of the slide etc. Wipe it on the barrel. Close slide. Wipe off any remaining grease. Good.

2) inspect breach face for brass shavings as they are an indicator of problems with the extractor. Inspect a fired case as well, look for gouges or heavy scratches. Remove slide, and barrel from slide. Now manually slide a cartridge base up the breech face as it would move during chambering. As the case moves up, there should by a slight increase in friction as the case rim moves under the extractor claw. Once in position, the cartridge should be held by the extractor claw even with very gentle shaking. If there is significant friction or brass shavings, the extractor may have a burr or may not be moving freely etc.

 

[Czechvar]

I always ask this if I can't see it in the OP...Did you clean and Lube before your first shooting session? Anything unusual if you did? Maybe you mentioned it and I just missed it.

 

[jcmosssr]

Another possibility could be dirt under the extractor. I have had a couple of Sigs that were picky about cleaning under the extractor. I use a brush to clean under it when I clean them.