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Question about my new (to me) P239

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So I picked up my p239 gen 2 SAS today from my FFL and range.

It was immaculate, very little use.....the blue box said 239-40-BSS.

It looks like a brand new .357 SIG barrel in it.

Before firing it, both the range master and I separately checked the functions (DA/SA, SRT, Decocker). I put a little Rem oil on the slide rails.

Here is the interesting part:. First round, first mag.....DA.....hammer strike (click-no bang). I eject the round.....light strike. Fire the rest of the mag, both DA and SA.... everything fired fine. I put the light strike round back in, DA.....BANG!

OK. So I load the second mag. First round....DA.....click, no bang. Leaving the round in, I DA again.....BANG.

I fire an additional 6 or 8 mags, most DA (using the Decocker between shots). It works perfectly.

Now, they are factory remanufactured rounds. But I found the light strikes bothering.

Thoughts???
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First, I can't really help you, but I can tell you that you picked up one of the greatest carry pistols chambered in one of the best rounds ever manufactured. My guess is it's the reman ammo (which I never use, and I've never had the problem you describe, either). But Maz will help you sort it out (or Willard will).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, I only shot reman ammo. From Freedom arms. I use Gold Dots as my carry ammo. A lot of my practice ammo is reman, since that's about all I can find. None of the stores in Billings carry .357 SIG, so I'm stuck buying what I can find (and afford) on line.

I've got a couple boxes of factory Speer Lawman that I can dig out and try. The range is an hour back into Billings, but I can do that. (We have a closer outdoor range, but the winter winds blow so hard that you can't keep the paper target on the stand.
 

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Yes, it could very well be the ammunition, get some factory new ammunition and try it, as remanufactured, if over OAL, may not be fully in "battery", and the first strike seats the round in the chamber, allowing the restrike to set it off. Also being an SAS, with the SRT, also try the pencil test, to see if you can launch a pencil across the room...

Also if dealing with the non-original Barrel, make sure it is fitted to the slide properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, it could very well be the ammunition, get some factory new ammunition and try it, as remanufactured, if over OAL, may not be fully in "battery", and the first strike seats the round in the chamber, allowing the restrike to set it off. Also being an SAS, with the SRT, also try the pencil test, to see if you can launch a pencil across the room...

Also if dealing with the non-original Barrel, make sure it is fitted to the slide properly.
Willard....thanks for your reply.

How can I tell if the barrel is properly fitted or not?
 

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Willard....thanks for your reply.

How can I tell if the barrel is properly fitted or not?
If a newer barrel, the Nitron coating on the rear of the hood extension should still be "black", and any fitting done should be in front of the Barrels hood, to fit within the Ejection port. If done at the rear it interferes with the headspacing. In other cases material is removed from under the feedramp, instead of fitting the Barrel to lock up higher into the Ejection Port.

While 95+% of Sigs OEM Barrels should likely drop in, those that don't, need to be properly fitted. Interference with headspace, could cause the symptoms you described previously, but since you didn't specify which barrel, was giving you trouble, I assumed it was the .40 S&W original Barrel.
 

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If a newer barrel, the Nitron coating on the rear of the hood extension should still be "black", and any fitting done should be in front of the Barrels hood, to fit within the Ejection port. If done at the rear it interferes with the headspacing. In other cases material is removed from under the feedramp, instead of fitting the Barrel to lock up higher into the Ejection Port.

While 95+% of Sigs OEM Barrels should likely drop in, those that don't, need to be properly fitted. Interference with headspace, could cause the symptoms you described previously, but since you didn't specify which barrel, was giving you trouble, I assumed it was the .40 S&W original Barrel.
Hey Willard, post a picture of both conditions, if you have one. The OP might have better understanding, if he can see a barrel hood that has not locked up properly.

OP should/could install both the 40SW barrel and the 357sig barrel, for comparison. Maybe take pics for us.

I definitely would try some quality factory ammo, before doing any fitting. 👍
 

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Hey Willard, post a picture of both conditions, if you have one. The OP might have better understanding, if he can see a barrel hood that has not locked up properly.

OP should/could install both the 40SW barrel and the 357sig barrel, for comparison. Maybe take pics for us.

I definitely would try some quality factory ammo, before doing any fitting. 👍
I don't believe I have saved any photos, of any mis-fitted Barrels supplied by any members.

Here is where a Barrel should be fitted, to fit the dimensions, width and length of Ejection Port, material should be removed from the front of the hood, outlined in GREEN, while depth of dimensions, to eliminate trimming the bottom of the feedramp, to cycle material should be removed from the area outlined in GOLD, to allow the rear of the Barrel to rise up higher into the Ejection Port.

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Here's a Sig Sauer P239 .40 S&W Barrel for reference... as you can see where material was removed in front of the Hood for fitting depth... and to tilt higher into the Ejection Port.

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It didn't come with the 40 barrel. And the new barrel is not SIG, but some after market.... exterior is shiny SS.
When you gave the SKU on the box it came in... "239-40-BSS", that's what led me to believe it came with the original Barrel which would have been .40 S&W.

Since it appears a previous owner has done some work, or had it done, we are starting from scratch...

Some photos, to start, with what all you have, will provide a start, on where to begin. Since the P239 has been discontinued for a few years, some major parts such as .357 Sig, and .40 S&W Barrels will almost have to come from aftermarket sources. A possible alternative is to watch Gun Broker, or other sources for "Gun Parts Kits" from destroyed pistols as sources for used OEM parts.

Since headspace gauges are pricey, in this case we can use factory first quality ammunition as a guide, where you can take your Barrels, and check rudimentary headspacing, by dropping a loaded round into the Chamber of the Barrel, and checking to insure the Cartridge rim doesn't extend past the Hood Extension... If the case extends past the Hood Extension, then there could be a Headspace problem, with insuffecient headspace.

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