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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ll be taking my new P938 to the range this week to break it in and I want to get off on the right foot lubrication wise. Reading just the info presented in the Owner's Manual I believe I would have under lubricated the gun. The Sig Sauer Representative's email information found on the forum was more helpful. . I have also read other Threads that indicate the Sig likes to be run a little wet and one from a pistol smith that shows photos of a good amount of grease recommended for the rails. Following the quotes below I have two questions the answers to which would help me start out properly with my new Sig.

From Owner’s Manual
Avoid over-lubrication of components
1. Lubricate the cleaning brush with gun oil and insert it into the barrel via the chamber (opposite the muzzle end)
2. Wipe powder residues and oil from the barrel bore and chamber with cleaning patches.
3. Clean exterior surfaces of the barrel with a brush coated with gun oil.
4. Remove dirt from guides of the frame, inside and outside of the slide, recoil spring guide and recoil spring with a brush or cleaning patch. Lightly lubricate same surfaces with a cloth impregnated with gun oil or gun grease.
5. Lightly oil bores of the barrel and chamber. Remove any excess lubricant

From Sig Talk Forum

This appears to be an email quote from Sig Sauer to one of our forum members related to lubrication:

Here is Sig's reply to my information in the previous post;

"Jim,

Thanks for the email. I understand your frustrations but based off the gunsmiths notes we have the firearm working properly.……As far as cleaning and lubricating, we recommended a grease for the rails, which is applied and excess is wiped off. For the internals we recommend a gun oil applied enough that it can leave a fingerprint on the surface but not too much as to have run off (if you tilt the barrel there should be no run off). The firearm should be fired at the range in the same condition as when carried. It’s good to have oil on hand or grease incase lubrication is needed in a range session. I have attached a
PDF copy of Sig Sauer pistol lubrication points reference. As far as the firing pin channel I would also recommend compressed air, at times a pipe cleaner will remove most of the debris/carbon but it can also lead to build up as well in the channel. No lubrication is needed in the firing pin channel. Any other questions or concerns feel free to reply back through email or give me a call directly at"
The lubrication chart supplied;

This is the link I am unable to follow ----

https://blu178.mail.live.com/default...=1&n=142659097

Another post from Sig Talk Forum

Of the post's I have read, a polished feed ramp has eliminated a lot of failure to feed problems, you have a small handgun with little room to feed and cycle when fired. Did you grease the slide rails? you didn't answer, but it does help with the movement of the slide when firing. Both of these small details certainly remedied my issues with feeding, YMMV. There are a lot of 938 owners on here with higher round counts and no problems, the 938 is a nice handgun.
You have a steel slide riding on an alloy frame, which is all the more reason to use grease. A light coat of oil is not an acceptable substitute for slide grease and could result in premature wear. Improper lubrication could in fact be affecting the timing of the slide in its attempt to feed. IMO I would grease the slide and run some ball through it. You may not believe in a break in period, but I am sure others would argue the point

TWO QUESTIONS:

1) What are your lubrication preferences/recommendations?

2) Does anyone have access to the Sig Lubrication Chart discussed in the Sig Rep’s email? The Lubrication Chart Link in the email quote above just sends me to a Microsoft Outlook web site so any help on accessing it would be much appreciated.
 

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I use Slide Glide on the rails and some on the outside of the barrel. Then a couple drops of LPX on the barrel and internals. Worked well for all my P Series and 1911
 

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Welcome From Indianapolis

It's good to see that you're into taking good care of your equipment. Here is a pretty good thread about lube and cleaning. As you'll see, there are lots of different ones, and they all seem to work. Everyone has their own ideas on what to use and how to use it.
Good luck with your Sig.

http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-pistols/26636-best-cleaner-lube-my-sig.html
 
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Many perfectly good lubrication options exist. You will get many suggestions.

A good mineral oil or dino oil (of the non-gumming variety) has worked for me for many years. Remoil seems to be fine. Many folks have favored CLP or Hoppes over the years.

If you use the Frog lube some like, be sure to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions or you could have problems.

The most important thing is to have a thin film of lubricant where friction occurs. Keeping a thin film on the rest of the gun will help prevent corrosion.

Excessive amounts do no good. They are wiped away from the areas where friction occurs. And they can just be an opportunity for contaminants to be retained.
 

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938s are tight.
I use the TW25B Sig supplied because it is very light and hangs in there.
I also use it on the barrel-slide as I think it is better than oil.
For oil I use Mobil 1 5/20 as that is my car's choice, and I save a bit.

For a heavier grease I use slide glide medium or heavy.

All my Sigs run on that regimen.
 

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When I first bought a Sig P220 (1992) I didn't do anything but oil the slide slide after cleaning, didn't shoot more than 50 rounds a session then. My P228 (1995) pretty much the same was until 2000 when I started to use grease. Both work the best of all my new Sigs, never a problem. But you ask me now and I'll tell you what everyone else here is saying, I treat them a lot better but it sure didn't matter back then as long as it was lubed.
 

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I just use Hoppe's oil in excess on anything that rubs on my 938.

I then take the sopping wet gun and put it in my Aliengear holster to oil the leather.

The excess falls into the leather and my gun stays lubed.

After doing this the first time, even after 3 months of wearing it and not cleaning, the slide was baby smooth. Shot it yesterday (4.5 months since last cleaning while carrying regularly) and it worked flawlessly.
 

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I have used nothing but Hoppe's #9 to clean, TW25b on rails and wear areas, and Rem Oil to coat all of my guns. Including, rifles and shotguns.

No rust and all guns fire perfectly.
 

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Great big globs?
Nooo, if it is dripping off that is a little too much. Go from great big globs to little bitty dabs. Great big globs are only used when an officer tells you angrily and rudely to go grease the fairwater planes because he wants to conduct some testing, then you take your trusty grease gun and bucket and apply the great big globs. When you hear the officer shout your name and you look back and globs are dripping down his uniform...then that is enough. At that point you calmy explain you have to use enough to clear out the old grease, smile, and walk away. :D
 
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If you get oil splatter on your shooting glasses, you have used too much. I run my SIGs fairly wet and have had great results. Just wet the "wear" areas, which are usually indicated by a shine on the finish, and in a few spots, the lack of finish.

Try to keep oil off the breech face and firing pin area.

In my opinion, WHAT you use is not as important as the fact that you putting something slippery in the right places. I use a heavier oil, similar to the consistency of motor oil. It stays in place better. The stuff I use is actually called "grease" but it dispenses out of a bottle.

Mike
 

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If you get oil splatter on your shooting glasses, you have used too much. I run my SIGs fairly wet and have had great results. Just wet the "wear" areas, which are usually indicated by a shine on the finish, and in a few spots, the lack of finish.

Try to keep oil off the breech face and firing pin area.

In my opinion, WHAT you use is not as important as the fact that you putting something slippery in the right places. I use a heavier oil, similar to the consistency of motor oil. It stays in place better. The stuff I use is actually called "grease" but it dispenses out of a bottle.

Mike
I watched a video with Bill Wilson talking about how to lube a gun and he said old guns are easier to lube than new guns. With an old gun, lube up your rails and the spots where you see wear.

I follow that same advice, once I lube up the important areas I put a little on all wear spots.
 

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I just use CLP. Maybe I should start greasing the rails. Never had any issues using just CLP though. I figure if it's good enough for the military weapons that get tens of thousands of rounds fired through them, it's good enough for my comparatively light use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
For my first trip to the range with the new Sig P938 I took the recommended lubrication advice that came in from this post to start breaking the gun in:

1. Cleaned it well with Hoppe's #9

2. I lubricated with an ample amount (put enough on to see it) of the Sig Grease TW25b on the rails and wear areas and used a light coat of good gun oil on the rest. I left the magazines un-lubed.

In any case, I believe the lubrication I applied did its job well and was not a root or contributing cause of any defects noted. My recommendation is to error on the side of more lubrication rather than less.

The report-out of the results of the range visit needs to be addressed in a new post because it will deal with other issues beyond lubrication. The range results will be in a new post entitled – “Initial P938 Break-in Range Results: Thank You Forum Members”. I should have them up shortly.

Thanks to all those who found time to provide lubrication tips,
Glarus
 
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