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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found it listed on GunsAmerica by someone local. He bought it NIB in February of 2013 and it's been sitting in his safe unfired for the last 4 years. It's all complete except for the insert that goes in the lid of the box. All the oil and grease was completely dried up. Born on 23-JAN-2013.

As purchased:



After a detail clean, re-lube and fat trigger install:

 

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The way that you said that leads me to believe that it won't be your last, not that there's anything wrong with that.

Congrats on a mighty fine pistol. Looks even better if you get rid of that scab on the front left side of the frame. JMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You're right, ThnkFrst. I don't mind having more than one of any SIG and this M11-A1 is a nice variant, despite all the sales propaganda. :)
 

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Looks terrific, I hope you enjoy it.
 

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I found it listed on GunsAmerica by someone local. He bought it NIB in February of 2013 and it's been sitting in his safe unfired for the last 4 years. It's all complete except for the insert that goes in the lid of the box. All the oil and grease was completely dried up. Born on 23-JAN-2013.

As purchased:



After a detail clean, re-lube and fat trigger install:

I would like to change the Short Reach trigger to the Standard "fat" trigger on my new M11-A1.

My 225-A1, 228, and 229 all have the Standard trigger from the SIG factory. Kinda used to those. The thin trigger feels different on the M11.

How hard is it to change triggers? I never did more to gun other than field strip and change grips sometimes.
 

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It's not hard at all to change the trigger on a P-series pistol; watch a few of the YouTube videos and you should be good to go. Better yet, invest in one of the armorers DVDs and learn to deal strip the whole pistol.
 

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How hard is it to change triggers? I never did more to gun other than field strip and change grips sometimes.

It's not difficult, and there are plenty of youtube videos showing how its done. Just keep in mind it's technically armorer level of service, and would void your warranty if SIG decided to be anal about it with you (which has not been my experience with their customer service).
 

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It's not hard at all to change the trigger on a P-series pistol; watch a few of the YouTube videos and you should be good to go. Better yet, invest in one of the armorers DVDs and learn to deal strip the whole pistol.
Not trying to be argumentative, but if you give this advice, you should always inform people that simply buying a video and doing their own work will void their warranty if they are not a certified armorer.
 

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The way that you said that leads me to believe that it won't be your last, not that there's anything wrong with that.

Congrats on a mighty fine pistol. Looks even better if you get rid of that scab on the front left side of the frame. JMHO.
No worries ThnkFrst. Just like all scabs, it will fall off soon enough. :D
 
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Not trying to be argumentative, but if you give this advice, you should always inform people that simply buying a video and doing their own work will void their warranty if they are not a certified armorer.
My feelings about the warranty. I saw videos on how to swap trigger, but never attempted anything like this. Don't want to mess up gun or void warranty.
 

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Oh come on, guys! You can take it apart to the itty-bitty bits, and as long as you put it back together, and assuming that what you do is not causal to any warranty issue, SIG would never know and would hardly give a rusty rat's . . .

BUT, if the gun has a short reset kit (other than the early versions from a few years ago and earlier), then the safety lever lower leg is going to block removal for the trigger/trigger bar assembly. One needs to release top leg of sear spring, and pushp sear pivot out to the left just far enough to clear the safety lever, then remove lever w/ magnet or tweezers. (You might consider re-tensioning sear spring to keep things in place while removing trigger and bar).

Hint, most videos correctly say slots in trigger pivot pin face down, and then say be sure the little slot is horizontal - assembly of blocking insert usually goes even easier if you turn the slot so it's 10 to 4 o'clock rather than 9 - 3. It's turn on it's own from 10 - 4 to 9 - 3 as things go together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's an easy job to replace the trigger and only takes me about 15 minutes if I'm not doing anything else in there. The trigger bar comes right out with a little maneuvering after removing the spring and lifting the trigger into the frame. Sometimes it helps to relieve the tension on the sear spring. If you see a video where there's a lot of time fiddling around getting it apart or reassembling it, find another video.

I've never had to return a SIG for any warranty work. I don't think it would be a problem if you put the original parts back in, as long as you didn't mangle anything inside the frame, before sending it in. The inner workings of the P-Series is really simplistic once you get familiar with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hint, most videos correctly say slots in trigger pivot pin face down, and then say be sure the little slot is horizontal - assembly of blocking insert usually goes even easier if you turn the slot so it's 10 to 4 o'clock rather than 9 - 3. It's turn on it's own from 10 - 4 to 9 - 3 as things go together.
Very true!!
 

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Not trying to be argumentative, but if you give this advice, you should always inform people that simply buying a video and doing their own work will void their warranty if they are not a certified armorer.
I sent in a month old P229 for FTEs after I had installed the SRT in it. SIG swapped out the extractor and made no mention of the SRT not being part its original set up. Maybe because the issue was not related to the trigger? I don't know. In this case, doing the work myself did not prevent SIG from honoring warranty work.
 

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Oh come on, guys! You can take it apart to the itty-bitty bits, and as long as you put it back together, and assuming that what you do is not causal to any warranty issue, SIG would never know and would hardly give a rusty rat's . . .

BUT, if the gun has a short reset kit (other than the early versions from a few years ago and earlier), then the safety lever lower leg is going to block removal for the trigger/trigger bar assembly. One needs to release top leg of sear spring, and pushp sear pivot out to the left just far enough to clear the safety lever, then remove lever w/ magnet or tweezers. (You might consider re-tensioning sear spring to keep things in place while removing trigger and bar).

Hint, most videos correctly say slots in trigger pivot pin face down, and then say be sure the little slot is horizontal - assembly of blocking insert usually goes even easier if you turn the slot so it's 10 to 4 o'clock rather than 9 - 3. It's turn on it's own from 10 - 4 to 9 - 3 as things go together.
WOW! This sounds way beyond my abilities. Sending M11-A1 to SIG for the trigger swap!
 

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WOW! This sounds way beyond my abilities. Sending M11-A1 to SIG for the trigger swap!
If you can pat your head and rub your tummy while singing Yankee Doodle Dandy or Way Down South in Dixie, it should be a piece of cake if you take your time. :)

I'll allow as to how the Classic P can be a bit intimidating the first go at it . . . "Now where did this funny looking little part come from? Or when you pull out one little pin or screw a spring loaded part from somewhere goes zinging past your ear, or four seemingly unrelated and unrecognizable parts just drop out onto the work bench, or you hear the tinkle noise of a part dropping and can't find the darn thing anywhere - slightly worse if you felt it hit your shoe before is vanished - 'cause then you KNOW for sure it's gone but still don't know what it was??:confused::huh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
WOW! This sounds way beyond my abilities. Sending M11-A1 to SIG for the trigger swap!
I removed the trigger bar without messing with the sear parts. I did have to cock the hammer so it would clear the wing on the SRT sear and it slid right past the safety lever with a left-hand tilt as it came out. That was before I decided to do the detail strip to get all the dried grease out of there.
 
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