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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At a gun show today I came across a W. German P6 priced at 400 and offered at 350. The slide showed some wear. There appeared to be a small spot of surface rust on the top of the barrel. Looking down the barrel it looked ok and I didn't see any obvious other issues. I don't know much about older SIGs so after much internal debate I passed. I don't know what year the gun was manufactured as I didn't really know what to look for. Should I go back tomorrow and get this gun or was I good to let it go? Thanks

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Most P6's show lots of exterior wear but were shot very little. $350 is a steal of a deal given P6's lately have been in the $500-$550 range. The gun will have the manufacture date on the right side of the slide near the muzzle. Below the date is the last 3 of the serial number. The serial number should also be on the barrel and frame. If these are matching, and the rails look good, then $350 is good. That's about the minimum value of any gun regardless of condition.
 

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This picture shows date of 11/78, and also shows where last 3 digits are on the slide and barrel, which should match the last 3 digits of serial number... to be original.

You may also see circular wear patterns, one on each side of slide, from the hardware of the holsters that were commonly used, as observed to the lower rear of the ejection port.
 

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I know someone that just got one and he absolutely loves it. Go get it and if you hate the finish have it redone. Or better yet have it bead blasted and be different.
P6 slides are carbon steel, not stainless. Leaving them naked and unprotected is not a good idea.
 

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If it were me, and I was after another P6, I'd go back to see if he still had it. Obviously, condition is something I can't see but if he does still have it, near the end of the show I'd go back with the same $350. I'd probably negotiate up to $375 but that would be top dollar for me.

P6's can be found in great condition for $400 pretty easy. If the dealer knows squat about Sigs, he know that and grabbing a couple bucks always beats packing a gun up for the next show.
 

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The p225/p6 is a great gun. I almost passed on mine but now nearly 6 months later. I'm glad I got it. Like others have said, if the rails look good and the action works right, make a deal. I doubt you'll regret it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm gonna go back and look today. If the numbers don't match how much does that devalue the gun?

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I'm gonna go back and look today. If the numbers don't match how much does that devalue the gun?

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I wouldn't have any use for a rusty P6 with SNs that don't match.

If that's what this one turns out to be, save your money for a better example.
 

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Absolutely agree. Even if the "parts" are the same, mis-matched SNs on those parts turn it into a FrankinSig - and any parted out gun is not worth what a proper Sig is worth.

Not to a shooter.
Not to a collector.
 

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I'm gonna go back and look today. If the numbers don't match how much does that devalue the gun?

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As others have stated, I might pass it up, even at $350, if it didn't match. Also if it doesn't have a manual and "case", similar to what I have shown here, you should "insist" that $350 is the maximum value.
 

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If buying as a collector's item, rust or lack of a manual and correct box means "no-go."

Whether buying as a collector or as a shooter, lack of matching numbers means "no-go."

If buying as a shooter, a tiny amount of surface rust might not necessarily stop me, and the lack of box and manual would not stop me.

Lack of matching numbers is a deal killer regardless of the reason for purchase.

All of these are factored in to the price.

If I recall, the P6 has a heavier trigger pull than the P225, and I also recall the hammer is different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After going back and looking at the gun the amount of rust is negligible. The numbers all match. The action was smooth although that DA pull is long. The gun did have a box but no book. At 350 out the door I couldn't resist. I buy guns to shoot not to sit in a safe.
After getting the gun home and cleaning it up (and discovering in better light that there was even less than negligible rust) I took it down to the bottom 40 and fired 100 rounds through it with no flaws.


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Based on that photo, you did very well at $350. Tear it down, give it a good cleaning, replace the springs, and you are good to go!

Check my signature line; my P6 served as a police pistol in the same German state as yours did (that's what the NW stamp stands for). Mine was manufactured in 1980, yours in 1981 (at least I think that's what I see in the photo--my eyes aren't what they used to be).

Nice that yours came with a box; check Ebay if you want to pick up a period-correct manual.

I'll also mention that the P6 does come with a very heavy DA pull due to the mainspring. This was specified in the German police contract in order to prevent NDs by officers. You can lighten it up by swapping it out with a 225 mainspring, or an even lighter one.

There are other differences between a P225 and a P6. The P6 has a spur on the hammer, which was intended to deform if the gun was dropped on its hammer, thus indicating to the dept armorer that the gun needed attention.

Also , the feed ramps on the barrels of early P6s are different from the P225 and later P6s, so they don't always feed hollow points reliably. If this gun will serve any defensive purposes for you, be sure to verify that it will cycle and feed your intended ammo without issues.

Nice pickup at a great price!
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I would have loved for this gun to have been a 1980 proof as that is the year I was born. That is my next goal when I search for a W. German SIG. I just think that would be cool.
 

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There is no doubt the P6 is a fine little gun, but there are others to be had. There is one sitting in the case at my LGS as we speak. At least, it was this week when I was there. You can find them. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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