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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So me thinking i was pretty decent with guns and getting tips and tricks from members on here, I have been attempting to do a trigger job on my 938.

I did everything suggested, minus ANY work to the actual trigger and the spring.

So it had a nice break to it, but feeling another stock 938, like bumper said, if you don't do the angle correctly either when stoning or polishing off way to much material on the contact surfaces, it can and in fact, WILL make your trigger much heavier. It kinda made it a crispier break, but needed a little extra ummph to get it to break. like it had a little resistance or like a sticking feeling.
I ran it like this for about 500 rounds.

Said eh, i could do better.

I ordered up all the trigger parts again. It was $61 bucks for the sear, hammer, mainspring and leaf spring. the one with the two fingers. who cares.

So, since i figured out i did too much, on this one, all i did was polish off the areas just enough to get the machine marks and finish off down to metal. Got it nice and shiny. took about 6 minutes taking my time.

and DAMN, this trigger is down to like.....2 lbs. smooth as hell.and holy cow its awesome. I love it.


ALSO, engaging the safety with the hammer down was VERY difficult. almost not do able with one hand. would have to pull the hammer back just a tad for it to be engaged.
Im guessing with the material removed it puts the hammer at such a slight different angle its sticking somewhere.

THIS IS NOW ALSO FIXED. I can engage the safety with a finger, with barely any pressure. its great.

So it solved all my little tiny issues with my gun. can't complain at all.



So the reason i wrote this, was for those that want to do a trigger job, just learn from this, doing too much isn't aways best. lol

cheers
 

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ALSO, engaging the safety with the hammer down was VERY difficult. almost not do able with one hand. would have to pull the hammer back just a tad for it to be engaged.
Im guessing with the material removed it puts the hammer at such a slight different angle its sticking somewhere.

THIS IS NOW ALSO FIXED. I can engage the safety with a finger, with barely any pressure. its great.
Just curious how this was fixed.
 

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I'm pretty sure your not supposed to be able to engage the safety unless the hammer is back. I wish it wasn't this way but it is, hopefully he didn't wreck something and make it unsafe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Just curious how this was fixed.
Because if things aren't in the right angle all the way, it made the hammer sit just a tad on a position where the safety wouldn't engage.

I'm talking like a hair or 3.

ill reference a thread, one sec....


GunmonkeyINTL (post#23)- "The problem arises when either the tolerances are stacked up unfavorably (new gun) or, after performing a trigger job, the gunsmith does not complete the trigger job by re-fitting the hammer to the safety. As material is removed from the nose of the sear, the hammer is allowed to sit further forward when in the cocked position. If the hammer rests far enough forward, then the amount of hammer left to interfere with the safety barrel is sufficient to make it overly difficult to put the safety on ‘SAFE’. "

but read the whole thing. its a good read. I'm a firm believer thats its all about the angle...

http://sigtalk.com/p238-p938-pistol/21109-p938-ambi-safety-hard-engage-when-hammer-back.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm pretty sure your not supposed to be able to engage the safety unless the hammer is back. I wish it wasn't this way but it is, hopefully he didn't wreck something and make it unsafe.
checked it on a couple. thats perfectly normal.
 

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I'm pretty sure your not supposed to be able to engage the safety unless the hammer is back. I wish it wasn't this way but it is, hopefully he didn't wreck something and make it unsafe.
Actually, the design of the P9238/238 is such that the safety can be engaged when the hammer is cocked or decocked. Because the safety lever blocks the hammer movement, the hammer cannot be cocked (nor can the slide be cycled) or decocked with the safety engaged.

Because if things aren't in the right angle all the way, it made the hammer sit just a tad on a position where the safety wouldn't engage.

I'm talking like a hair or 3.[/url]
I understand that removing material from the sear and/or hammer SA notch will "lower" the hammer when it's in the cocked position and make the safety harder to engage.

I was curious how you fixed the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I bought all new parts, hammer and sear.

I feel like i took too much material off the hammer somewhere, and, once i knew the sear was trashed, i hit it with even more of an angle with some sandpaper followed by some polishing.

So thats where the angles started getting trashed.

So the fix was, buying new parts, and lightly polishing the parts, not trying to remove any material, and leaving the angle of the sear alone. (don't have a proper sear jig)

And ya, its as smooth as butter
 

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the 938 safety can only be engaged with the hammer cocked and the slide will cycle with the safety on if the hammer is cocked
 

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The safety can be engaged with the hammer cocked, or hammer down, you just can't cock the hammer with the safety engaged.

Does anyone else find the ability to load and unload with the safety engaged to be of dubious value, especially when it appears to adversely affect the shape and location of the safety?

It's as if the primary concern is load-on-safe, rather than the safety falling readily under the thumb when engaged.
 

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The safety can be engaged with the hammer cocked, or hammer down, you just can't cock the hammer with the safety engaged.

Does anyone else find the ability to load and unload with the safety engaged to be of dubious value, especially when it appears to adversely affect the shape and location of the safety?

It's as if the primary concern is load-on-safe, rather than the safety falling readily under the thumb when engaged.
It doesn't affect me in any way but I do not have any problem with flicking it off with my thumb. This was my first hammer fired pistol though so I hadn't experienced any other arrangement.

With such a small frame, where would you locate it to make it easier to disengage. Move it foward a little and now your interfering with the magazine.
 
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