Do you mean the FCU or the trigger? The FCU is the actual gun, with serial number, etc. Everything else can be swapped out, including triggers, trigger springs, grip modules, slides, barrels, etc.
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Do you mean the FCU or the trigger? The FCU is the actual gun, with serial number, etc. Everything else can be swapped out, including triggers, trigger springs, grip modules, slides, barrels, etc.How difficult is it to switch out the FCU? I've read a few posts of people who have had issues after changing to aftermarket products.
Sorry, I wasn’t trying to be snarky, just trying to understand. There’s a big thread on this topic that I’m reading right now.My mistake. I'd just like to reduce the squishy trigger creep.
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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
What do you mean by "Squishy?" There's nothing that eliminates the movement between the wall and the break but it should be a smooth motion from the wall to the break. If that's what you're calling squishy, that's just the nature of the design. The wall is where the seer starts to move.My mistake. I'd just like to reduce the squishy trigger creep.
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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
What do you mean by "Squishy?" There's nothing that eliminates the movement between the wall and the break but it should be a smooth motion from the wall to the break. If that's what you're calling squishy, that's just the nature of the design. The wall is where the seer starts to move.
A striker fired trigger has stages. The trigger pull imo doesn't start until you hit the wall. Before that is the pre-travel, or take up. All that is doing is disabling an internal safety and I've trained myself to take up the slack by the time I have my sights on target. I.e. when I'm ready to start my trigger pull I'm already sitting at the wall.
You can buy a trigger that will reduce the pre-travel, but, if it goes too far it will disable the internal safety which is a no go in my book. They also sell triggers that reduce the overtravel, but that happens after the break. Adjust the overtravel adjustment too far and you risk the seer not dropping far enough to release the striker.
If the travel between the wall and the break is not a consistently smooth motion, it might be as simple as polishing or replacing a part that came out of spec from the factory. Changing the trigger shoe won't fix the issue if that's what you're trying to describe by "Squishy"
I have two P365s, one is an XL. The P365 came with very smooth creep. The XL came with a lot of start/stop between the wall and the break. I replaced the striker after noticing the one that came with the XL was finished and it's smooth as can be now.
One option to consider if you have close to 800 rounds and are not satisfied with the trigger feel is to contact Mcarbo for their installation services.I've run about 800 rounds through my p365xl and think it's time to consider a better trigger. The pull weight isn't the problem (although a bit lighter would be appreciated) but it's always been a little squishy just before it breaks.
How difficult is it to switch out the [edited] trigger? I've read a few posts of people who have had issues after changing to aftermarket products.
Recommendations?
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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
Tactical Triggers makes a great P365 kit, really helps clean up the pull, take up, over travel, etc.I've run about 800 rounds through my p365xl and think it's time to consider a better trigger. The pull weight isn't the problem (although a bit lighter would be appreciated) but it's always been a little squishy just before it breaks.
How difficult is it to switch out the [edited] trigger? I've read a few posts of people who have had issues after changing to aftermarket products.
Recommendations?
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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous