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P365xl trigger upgrade suggestions

6422 Views 13 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  jp0319
I've run about 800 rounds through my p365xl and think it's time to consider a better trigger. The pull weight isn't the problem (although a bit lighter would be appreciated) but it's always been a little squishy just before it breaks.

How difficult is it to switch out the [edited] trigger? I've read a few posts of people who have had issues after changing to aftermarket products.

Recommendations?

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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
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How difficult is it to switch out the FCU? I've read a few posts of people who have had issues after changing to aftermarket products.
Do you mean the FCU or the trigger? The FCU is the actual gun, with serial number, etc. Everything else can be swapped out, including triggers, trigger springs, grip modules, slides, barrels, etc.
My mistake. I'd just like to reduce the squishy trigger creep.

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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
My mistake. I'd just like to reduce the squishy trigger creep.

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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
Sorry, I wasn’t trying to be snarky, just trying to understand. There’s a big thread on this topic that I’m reading right now. :)
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Installed M-Carbo flat trigger and never look back
It’s challenging but doable.
BTW.. I don't polish the FCU nor installing spring kits.
Just clean and spay little Otis dry-lube. Works like a charm
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My mistake. I'd just like to reduce the squishy trigger creep.

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I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
What do you mean by "Squishy?" There's nothing that eliminates the movement between the wall and the break but it should be a smooth motion from the wall to the break. If that's what you're calling squishy, that's just the nature of the design. The wall is where the seer starts to move.

A striker fired trigger has stages. The trigger pull imo doesn't start until you hit the wall. Before that is the pre-travel, or take up. All that is doing is disabling an internal safety and I've trained myself to take up the slack by the time I have my sights on target. I.e. when I'm ready to start my trigger pull I'm already sitting at the wall.

You can buy a trigger that will reduce the pre-travel, but, if it goes too far it will disable the internal safety which is a no go in my book. They also sell triggers that reduce the overtravel, but that happens after the break. Adjust the overtravel adjustment too far and you risk the seer not dropping far enough to release the striker.

If the travel between the wall and the break is not a consistently smooth motion, it might be as simple as polishing or replacing a part that came out of spec from the factory. Changing the trigger shoe won't fix the issue if that's what you're trying to describe by "Squishy"

I have two P365s, one is an XL. The P365 came with very smooth creep. The XL came with a lot of start/stop between the wall and the break. I replaced the striker after noticing the one that came with the XL was finished and it's smooth as can be now.
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What do you mean by "Squishy?" There's nothing that eliminates the movement between the wall and the break but it should be a smooth motion from the wall to the break. If that's what you're calling squishy, that's just the nature of the design. The wall is where the seer starts to move.

A striker fired trigger has stages. The trigger pull imo doesn't start until you hit the wall. Before that is the pre-travel, or take up. All that is doing is disabling an internal safety and I've trained myself to take up the slack by the time I have my sights on target. I.e. when I'm ready to start my trigger pull I'm already sitting at the wall.

You can buy a trigger that will reduce the pre-travel, but, if it goes too far it will disable the internal safety which is a no go in my book. They also sell triggers that reduce the overtravel, but that happens after the break. Adjust the overtravel adjustment too far and you risk the seer not dropping far enough to release the striker.

If the travel between the wall and the break is not a consistently smooth motion, it might be as simple as polishing or replacing a part that came out of spec from the factory. Changing the trigger shoe won't fix the issue if that's what you're trying to describe by "Squishy"

I have two P365s, one is an XL. The P365 came with very smooth creep. The XL came with a lot of start/stop between the wall and the break. I replaced the striker after noticing the one that came with the XL was finished and it's smooth as can be now.

Just reading this now...What would the striker be rubbing on to induce creep? Isn't it encapsulated in a plastic sheath? Was the striker bore possibly dirty/gritty? Do you think it was possibly the friction surfaces between the striker and the striker block? Can these areas be polished? Thanks.
I've run about 800 rounds through my p365xl and think it's time to consider a better trigger. The pull weight isn't the problem (although a bit lighter would be appreciated) but it's always been a little squishy just before it breaks.

How difficult is it to switch out the [edited] trigger? I've read a few posts of people who have had issues after changing to aftermarket products.

Recommendations?

___
I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
One option to consider if you have close to 800 rounds and are not satisfied with the trigger feel is to contact Mcarbo for their installation services.

They offer polishing of the FCU and installation of their parts including Short Stroke Flat Trigger, spring kit, and titanium striker.

This is helpful if you are not comfortable disassembling and polishing the parts yourself, especially if you don’t have a Dremel tool and are concerned about reassembly and installation of the parts.

This video may help you decide if you want to try polishing the FCU parts on your own. I watched this about 10 times while I did mine.


Below is a link to a post in another thread on springs.

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Check out Tactical Trigger, LLC. There are a few videos on YouTube regarding it.

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MCarbo. Best there is. Way short stroke and almost no take up. Check it out
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just ordered the Mcarbo, don't like the long pretravel on the factory one.
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I'm not a paid endorser of Mcarbo, so I don't know why I have two.
There's someone above in this thread who's responsible, but I won't say his name.
I'll spell it.
@Mizplayer

Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Wood
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Working on the FCU can be intimidating.
I've swapped out the curved trigger for the straight but really can't offer recommendations on eliminating the squishiness.

I will suggest whatever you choose, find a good YouTube "how to" video and watch it a few times before you do the work.
Then when you do the work, watch the video one last time before you pull the FCU.
Then have the video pulled up and ready to play should the need arise as you do the work.

Take your time, be patient and don't try to force anything. If you start to get frustrated, stop and take a break. Watch the video again (or the relative parts) and then give it another go.

Good luck with it.
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I've run about 800 rounds through my p365xl and think it's time to consider a better trigger. The pull weight isn't the problem (although a bit lighter would be appreciated) but it's always been a little squishy just before it breaks.

How difficult is it to switch out the [edited] trigger? I've read a few posts of people who have had issues after changing to aftermarket products.

Recommendations?

___
I'd give right arm to be ambidextrous
Tactical Triggers makes a great P365 kit, really helps clean up the pull, take up, over travel, etc.
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