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P365XL Finished striker = rough trigger pull?

710 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  BitOfANoob
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Backstory - I have two P365's. One is a standard model that has had a stupidly smooth trigger from the day I picked it up at the LGS and said "I'll take it!" after testing the trigger. I added a manual safety. I've swapped grip modules. Otherwise I've never done more than field strip and clean this P365 after range visits or if enough time had passed.

The other is an XL that i picked up at a big box store that didn't allow dry fire. The trigger pull on my XL was pretty rough. Not heavy. Just not smooth. I tried various things. I took the FCU apart and cleaned its parts. I coated some of them in dry lube. I cleaned my striker channel and striker. I tried the seer spring and striker safety spring from the Mcarbo kit. It helped a little bit, I noticed the biggest difference when I hit the seer and striker with some Otis dry lube. I also installed an Mcarbo short stroke trigger, which I was surprised to find out how much I noticed the overtravel with my XL before the Mcarbo trigger. More about that later.

One day, applying the dry lube I finally noticed it. My standard model's striker is unfinished. The seer is painted, but mostly worn away where the striker contacted it. The striker is smooth, shiny bare metal though.

This is what was in my XL. That painted finish when I run a fingernail over it is quite grabby, and not very slippery. Mind you, I've probably dry fired my XL a couple thousand times if not more at this point, it's also my primary range gun from here on out so I can practice with a familiar platform without cycling SD ammo through my standard model every other week.

Font Wood Office supplies Landscape Shadow
Office supplies Pen Writing implement Font Tints and shades


Here's my XL with the new striker I ordered. I might ahve asked sig to replace it, but I've modified my XL and really didn't want to send it in even if I hadn't. So I I ordered this from the sig store. Note, the striker block isn't black.

Everyday carry Bumper Window Tints and shades Bicycle part


First thing of note, I had to back out my overtravel adjustment screw to release the new striker. This means that the old painted striker has a slightly smaller striker block. This also means that the old painted striker had more overtravel in general than the new striker.. I.e. the seer now has to drop further to release the striker.

The trigger pull of my XL is now smooth as a hot knife through butter, slightly lighter than my standard model due to the mcarbo springs, and it would have less overtravel with the stock trigger shoe than the previous striker allowed for.

Now I find myself curious how many of you have finished strikers as well as what your trigger pull feels like when you try to use the least amount of pressure required to get it moving. Or perhaps it was the size discrepancy rather than the paint?
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It’s definitely the paint/finish. I didn’t buy a new striker.. rather I just polished the finish off it, the seer and a couple other parts. Super super smooth now… my pull on both of my p365s was a around 6.5… with the polish work alone they were both around 5.5.. plus the 2 mcarbo springs (kept the original striker spring) they are now both barely under 5 pounds
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It’s definitely the paint/finish. I didn’t buy a new striker.. rather I just polished the finish off it, the seer and a couple other parts. Super super smooth now… my pull on both of my p365s was a around 6.5… with the polish work alone they were both around 5.5.. plus the 2 mcarbo springs (kept the original striker spring) they are now both barely under 5 pounds View attachment 455659
I thought about stripping the paint off the striker block but despite the cost of the striker assembly, I think I chose the better option for me personally. The trigger breaking slightly further back is a good thing in my book and will be a better experience should I forego the option of an overtravel adjustment in the future. I really didn't anticipate an overtravel reduction from changing out the striker and that makes me wonder how much variation there may be between P365 strikers, or if mine was perhaps out of spec.

Not that I'm questioning your approach but I'm almost willing to bet if you'd just polished your striker block alone that would've been all it took. My XL has a brand new trigger bar and safety lever, the new TB's finish was rough where my original one had already smoothed out a bit but it wasn't responsible for the way my trigger would stop several times between the wall and break if I applied minimal pressure. The seer in both of my P365's came painted but its mostly worn away where the striker contacted it. The only difference really, between the two is that my XL's original striker was painted.

That being said.. my XL trigger feels superb right now. I made the OP within minutes of installing it. It's got the smoothness that I expected but did not find when I bought it. It's got a pretravel reduction. I'm not sure how much the overtravel reduction my trigger shoe offers matters to me at this point, but there's hardly any at all.

My XL has become a dedicated trainer really, which is one of the reasons I decided I was okay tinkering. The XL gets the dry fire and keeps a laser cartridge chambered at home, the XL goes in the range bag. It's a new arrangement, but, when it boils down to it they're still very much the same gun in my hands. The standard model stays prepped for EDC.

If someone were to tell me their P365 trigger wasn't smooth the first thing I'd want to look at was the striker.

Here's a pic of the pair.. just because.


Air gun Trigger Grey Line Gun barrel
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