I swapped it with M-Carbo Flat trigger , so much better ..
BTW .. I'd clean it really good and spray the FCU with some Dry-lube .. works all the time
BTW .. I'd clean it really good and spray the FCU with some Dry-lube .. works all the time
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P365 trigger consistency
Question for those of you that own more than one 365: How consistent are the trigger pulls between guns?
I rented a P365 before I bought one in part because the rental had a very good trigger pull, at least by striker fired polymer pistol standards.
I was initially disappointed by the trigger on the P365 I bought. It was gritty and a little sticky but after a few hundred rounds of live fire and quite a bit of dry firing it was much smoother. And now it is just as nice as I remember the trigger on the rental gun being.
So when I bought my XL I wasn't too worried when I dry fired the gun at the LGS before buying and the trigger was gritty and had a bit of a plastic on plastic stickiness to it. I figured it just need to be shot. After putting about 800 rounds through the gun it is better but noticeably worse than the trigger on my P365 was after a similar amount of rounds. Its not bad, I have owned guns with worse triggers, but its not as nice as I expected it to be.
I rented a P365 before I bought one in part because the rental had a very good trigger pull, at least by striker fired polymer pistol standards.
I was initially disappointed by the trigger on the P365 I bought. It was gritty and a little sticky but after a few hundred rounds of live fire and quite a bit of dry firing it was much smoother. And now it is just as nice as I remember the trigger on the rental gun being.
So when I bought my XL I wasn't too worried when I dry fired the gun at the LGS before buying and the trigger was gritty and had a bit of a plastic on plastic stickiness to it. I figured it just need to be shot. After putting about 800 rounds through the gun it is better but noticeably worse than the trigger on my P365 was after a similar amount of rounds. Its not bad, I have owned guns with worse triggers, but its not as nice as I expected it to be.
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I would probably assume that the rental has a fairly high round count through it. The more you shoot the 365 the better it gets IMHO. Make sure it is clean and as Scarrier said, use dry lube on the FCU. Also, keep the striker channel bone dry. Do not oil it. I have 2, a regular 365 and a 365X. The older one has a better trigger than the newer one. However, the more I shoot the new one the better it feels.
One other thing, i have a friend that brought his new p365xl to see what I thought about the trigger. It was very "catchy" on the pull. We checked the pull without the slide on and it was very smooth. I pulled the striker out, cleaned it and noticed an area of rub at the front of the striker. Cleaned the channel out very good and reassembled. Much better but not perfect. There is some discussion on using dry-lube on the striker but I have not bought in to that, yet. The key is that the striker needs to be dry so it will not gum up and create light strikes. But you may want to clean the striker channel real good.
I own a standard model and an XL. The standard model came with a buttery smooth trigger, the XL did not. I ended up narrowing down the issue to the striker after noticing the one that came with the XL was finished and the one that came with my standard model was not. Not only did the replacement striker smooth up my pull, the striker block is slightly larger causing the trigger to break slightly further back resulting in less overtravel than the same gun with the original striker that came with it.Question for those of you that own more than one 365: How consistent are the trigger pulls between guns?
I rented a P365 before I bought one in part because the rental had a very good trigger pull, at least by striker fired polymer pistol standards.
I was initially disappointed by the trigger on the P365 I bought. It was gritty and a little sticky but after a few hundred rounds of live fire and quite a bit of dry firing it was much smoother. And now it is just as nice as I remember the trigger on the rental gun being.
So when I bought my XL I wasn't too worried when I dry fired the gun at the LGS before buying and the trigger was gritty and had a bit of a plastic on plastic stickiness to it. I figured it just need to be shot. After putting about 800 rounds through the gun it is better but noticeably worse than the trigger on my P365 was after a similar amount of rounds. Its not bad, I have owned guns with worse triggers, but its not as nice as I expected it to be.
The P365 trigger pull should be impressively smooth as far as I'm concerned. If it isn't there's probably a part that could use polishing or replacement.
Thanks everyone.
I tried swapping the slides and the problem stayed with the XL's FCU. The regular P365's FCU was very smooth with either slide. So I don't think the problem is the XL's striker.
I had the FCU out when I was installing a Wilson Combat grip module a few weeks ago. There were no obvious defects. At the time it looked like there were a few small springs that could fly off unexpectedly if I tried to disassemble it so I just wiped it off instead of really cleaning it. I saw a YouTube video detailing how to take the FCU apart and it didn't look too bad. So I might do that and take a careful look at all the parts. But I am going to try a tiny bit of dry lube first.
I tried swapping the slides and the problem stayed with the XL's FCU. The regular P365's FCU was very smooth with either slide. So I don't think the problem is the XL's striker.
I had the FCU out when I was installing a Wilson Combat grip module a few weeks ago. There were no obvious defects. At the time it looked like there were a few small springs that could fly off unexpectedly if I tried to disassemble it so I just wiped it off instead of really cleaning it. I saw a YouTube video detailing how to take the FCU apart and it didn't look too bad. So I might do that and take a careful look at all the parts. But I am going to try a tiny bit of dry lube first.
I bought a used P365X with maybe 300 rds through it. Trigger was gritty. Then I read this:... I was initially disappointed by the trigger on the P365 I bought. It was gritty and a little sticky but after a few hundred rounds of live fire and quite a bit of dry firing it was much smoother. And now it is just as nice as I remember the trigger on the rental gun being.
Trigger work on P365
Go to posts #31 and #37 by mauser65.
I polished part of the trigger bar and bought some of the "Finish Line Bike dry lube with Teflon". Anything that moved with the trigger bar got dry lubed. Trigger is very smooth and pulls at 4.5 - 5 lbs consistently (same pull as before any polishing). I really like the dry lube.
FCU is a standard P365 (converted to X). Only thing I don't like is the rolling travel after the wall.
Thanks everyone.
I tried swapping the slides and the problem stayed with the XL's FCU. The regular P365's FCU was very smooth with either slide. So I don't think the problem is the XL's striker.
I had the FCU out when I was installing a Wilson Combat grip module a few weeks ago. There were no obvious defects. At the time it looked like there were a few small springs that could fly off unexpectedly if I tried to disassemble it so I just wiped it off instead of really cleaning it. I saw a YouTube video detailing how to take the FCU apart and it didn't look too bad. So I might do that and take a careful look at all the parts. But I am going to try a tiny bit of dry lube first.
The smoothness of my XL trigger was inconsistent. Sometimes it would be smooth, other times it would stop several times through the pull. The XL slide on my standard P365 was smoother but my P365 slide is smooth regardless of which FCU I used.
If your striker is painted I'd almost be willing to bet that's the culprit. The finish is very grippy and the eye opening event was first seeing that the XL's striker was finished and the standard FCU was not. Taking my thumb nail and running it along the striker block, lIke trying to scratch it, my thumbnail moves smoothly across an unfinished striker, but the finished striker my thumbnail would start and stop much like my XL's trigger did.
I replaced the trigger bar and striker safety lever before that. The new trigger bar was rougher than the one that came with it, as it had mostly polished itself. It initially felt a little "grittier" but that smoothed up pretty quickly and never produced anything like the striker causing my trigger to stop several times through the pull when using minimal pressure from the trigger finger.
It could possibly be another part, but if your striker is painted, that is still my first guess. Polishing the paint off the striker block is one option. I think my original striker was slightly out of spec and allowing for more overtravel though so replacing it worked out.
Painted internals? Well, okay.
I've a couple three 365s, and their triggers are all pretty similar. Having swapped slides around several times, I didn't see a significant difference in trigger pull.
I've seen it described as a 'rolling' trigger break, which works just fine for me. For old revo shooters, it feels pretty comfortable.
And because the parts are metal, it lacks that plasticicky feel of Glocks.
When I do a field strip for cleaning, I check the striker for smooth, non gritty movement. It generally isn't an issue, but if it is, I pull the striker assembly, and clean it, and the striker tube in the slide.
Moon
I've a couple three 365s, and their triggers are all pretty similar. Having swapped slides around several times, I didn't see a significant difference in trigger pull.
I've seen it described as a 'rolling' trigger break, which works just fine for me. For old revo shooters, it feels pretty comfortable.
And because the parts are metal, it lacks that plasticicky feel of Glocks.
When I do a field strip for cleaning, I check the striker for smooth, non gritty movement. It generally isn't an issue, but if it is, I pull the striker assembly, and clean it, and the striker tube in the slide.
Moon
The culprit of my not so smooth trigger pull. It all came from the contact between the striker block and the seer.
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And here is my XL with a shiney new unpainted striker, and a smooth trigger pull. Not just unpainted, a larger striker block, meaning the trigger breaks further back, meaning there was an overtravel reduction just swapping the striker. But the smoothness was mostly about the metal surface vs a painted surface. My seer was gripping/grabbing the finish of the old striker.
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And here is my XL with a shiney new unpainted striker, and a smooth trigger pull. Not just unpainted, a larger striker block, meaning the trigger breaks further back, meaning there was an overtravel reduction just swapping the striker. But the smoothness was mostly about the metal surface vs a painted surface. My seer was gripping/grabbing the finish of the old striker.
The striker on both my guns is bare metal and the stickiness doesn't change when I swap slides. But I did notice the sear on the XL looks different, sort of like it was painted. This is my regular P365, the sear is bare metal:And here is my XL with a shiney new unpainted striker, and a smooth trigger pull. Not just unpainted, a larger striker block, meaning the trigger breaks further back, meaning there was an overtravel reduction just swapping the striker. But the smoothness was mostly about the metal surface vs a painted surface. My seer was gripping/grabbing the finish of the old striker.
This is the striker on my XL, it looks like there is some finish on the part of the sear that makes contact with the striker but it is wearing off:
I know the gun looks really dirty in these pictures but even with bifocals on it looks clean without magnification. Still planning to try some dry lube before doing anything else. And maybe a bit more cleaning too.
I couldn't claim your striker was the culprit just looking at those pictures. If you compress the striker spring using your thumb on the striker block does it move smoothly? How about the striker safety? Does it compress easily and smoothly? A dirty striker channel could potentially rough things up.I know the gun looks really dirty in these pictures but even with bifocals on it looks clean without magnification.
How does the trigger feel if you close the takedown lever and manipulate it with the slide removed? If rough this could indicate something with the moving parts of the seer and trigger bar.
How does the trigger feel if you lock the slide back and manipulate the trigger? This pins the seer down so the only resistance you will feel is the trigger bar spring and trigger bar.
Ideally, everything should feel smooth with the minimal amount of pressure it takes to get it moving.
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