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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured I would start a thread for P290 info, tricks, parts and accessories. Anyone who has good info to add for the P290 post it up.

There are two versions - the P290 and P290RS. The RS is the redesigned model with "re-strike" capability. Translated from Sig-speak that means the RS is a true double action trigger vs. the original which is a hammer fired pistol that Sig called a DAO but which in reality functions more like a single action pistol where you need to rack the slide and then it goes to a half or pre-cocked position from which the trigger pull will fully cock and release the hammer.

Serial wise the originals are 25A00xxxx and somewhere along the way they revised it. Not sure if that started with 25B00xxx or when exactly.

You can send in an original P290 to Sig Sauer to have an original P290 converted to the RS hammer/trigger system. Cost is $99 + shipping both ways. They have prepaid shipping both ways via Fed-Ex 2 day for $55. Call first to get an RA number and then send it in. I was told the turn around time is about 2 weeks from when they get the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The P290 has replaceable grip side plates. I haven't been able to find any online but I think someone who was handy could make their own for the gun out of walnut or other material.

I was thinking about a hogue jr for it. Has anyone tried the Hogue jr. grip on the P290?

Then I came across these which are decal grips that are peel and stick. They look to be cut to match the grip of the P290 and come in rubber and sand paper.

"Grip panels are pre-cut to fit and offer either a soft rubber cobblestone grip or a grittier, more tactile sand grip. Resistant to solvents and oils, these panels are self-adhesive and install easily. Approved for IDPA competition."

Features:
Just peel and adhere to the pistol for an easy application
Decal grip does not damage the finish of the original grip
Aids in a secure grip on your firearm
No light reflection
Product thickness for sandpaper type grip= 1/40"
Product thickness for rubber type grip = 1/32"
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I developed an easy method for takedown and field strip:

1) empty gun by dropping mag and racking slide
2) confirm empty by sight and touch
4) with mag out rack slide and flip up magazine catch lever
5) with your left hand pull back the slide slightly and carefully release the slide release while using a car key to put pressure on slide release pin (it is the opposite side of the mag release)
6) ease the slide forward a tiny but and the pin will click through. You will feel it and hear it release.
7) pull the pin out and remove the slide from the frame

Really easy once you do it once or twice.

Also when putting it back together all I do is put the slide on and put the pin in part way. As you move the slide back press the slide pin/slide release in place. With a little pressure on it but not a lot once the slide release notch lines up with the pin it will pop in place. Be careful while doing this as it is fairly easy to scratch the frame with the slide release lever pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does anyone have a good picture or diagram of the lube locations on for the P290?

I will probably make one sometime soon unless someone already has one for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
click on one:
P290
I was told today when I called CS that the differences between the original and 290RS models are:

RS Trigger/Hammer = true DAO with restrike capability
Frame beaver tail is bigger to help prevent slide bite for big hands
Comes with both a flush mag buttplate and finger tip extension buttplate.

Apparently there is also a slide stop lever that can be swapped out. Not sure what the difference is between them. Perhaps lower profile from a different model? :confused:

Comparison of original to RS. Note bigger beaver tail on RS



I'd really like to find one of the fingertip buttplates but no luck finding it online. Anyone have one they are willing to get rid of? :-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Call Sig on the Magazine plate they can probably help you out.
You would think but they only sell the complete magazine and not the butt plate part separately. Kind of annoying. The whole magazine is $46 from Sig.

Sooo.... anyone want to sell a finger-tip extension butt plate they aren't using? ;)


I found them for P239 and P220c base plates on TopGun Supply. Wonder if it would fit.
http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-magazine-base-plate-p239-9mm.html
http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-magazine-base_plate_p220-compact.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Well looking for parts for the magazine I stumbled across this link

Galloway Precision

"Sig P290 Performance Spring Set"
"Given the need for quick follow up and on target hits we have lighted the critcal springs to aid in lighter smoother trigger pull to keep you on target and quick with your Sig. Includes the hammer, blocker, and return springs. Everything to bring the P290 to the next level."

I'd love to read a review on it if anyone has tried it.


They also make
a stainless steel guiderod for $20
22lb recoil spring (increased spring) $15

And under coming soon it says
Performance Spring Set $20
Adjustable Trigger for P290 $50

Looks interesting
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've been looking for an exploded view of the P290 online but can't seem to find anything.

It is in the manual (link here) but has anyone found it online as a pic?

From the PDF of the manual but can't get the numbers for parts to copy :mellow:

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
While I was drifting through the manual . . . ^_^

8.3 Cleaning the Pistol

WARNING: Never clean the barrel from the muzzle end; do not use a steel wire brush as it can damage the smooth surface of the barrel. Use a suitable cleaning rod and a brush of the correct caliber.

Solvents can be harmful to the surface finish of the pistol. Read and follow the manufacturer’s warnings before using solvents or cleaners. Wear eye protection.

Avoid over-lubrication of components.

1. Lubricate the cleaning brush with gun oil and insert it into the barrel via the chamber (opposite the muzzle end).

2. Wipe powder residues and oil from the barrel bore and chamber with cleaning patches.

3. Clean exterior surfaces of the barrel with a brush coated with gun oil.

4. Remove dirt from guides of the frame, inside and outside of slide, recoil spring guide and recoil spring with a brush or cleaning patch. Lightly lubricate same surfaces with a cloth impregnated with gun oil or gun grease.

5. Lightly oil bores of the barrel and chamber. Remove any excess lubricant.
 

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I just picked up my new P290RS yesterday, and I'm having a devil of a time field stripping it so that I can lubricate it. I've watch videos on youtube and I'm fairly certain I'm following the procedure correctly, but I just can't get the slide release pushed out. Is that normal on a new P290? I even tried to get someone to push on it (using a retractable pen) while I held the slide back, and it still wouldn't budge. Should I put a drop of lubricant on it to loosen it up? Or should I just go buy a brass punch and use a rubber mallet? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just picked up my new P290RS yesterday, and I'm having a devil of a time field stripping it so that I can lubricate it. I've watch videos on youtube and I'm fairly certain I'm following the procedure correctly, but I just can't get the slide release pushed out. Is that normal on a new P290? I even tried to get someone to push on it (using a retractable pen) while I held the slide back, and it still wouldn't budge. Should I put a drop of lubricant on it to loosen it up? Or should I just go buy a brass punch and use a rubber mallet? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Here is the trick I use:
Clear gun
Release mag
Lock slide
Grip gun in left hand with fingers up over top of slide
Pull back slightly until you hear a click
Then using a car key (old Toyota 4Runner key works well) I push on the button as I let the slide forward slightly.
The slide release lever will pop out a touch.
 
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