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P228 Build

3709 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Johnnny13
I purchased the 80 percent lower from Matrix Precision and their P228 refinished parts kit. It was fun to hand cut the slide to frame fit. I used their cutter and then hand filed to get the precise fit. I then went and had the frame type 2 anodized and then I cerakoted the frame and slide Magpul Flat Dark Earth. I'm in the process of putting it back together. The tolerances are super tight. I'll update this post with my progress.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fit wasn't a issue but some of the pins seemed very tight installing into the frame. I test fired it today and it would only fire double action anyone have any ideas? I was also going to instal the SRT trigger.
 

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Johnnny13, besides bearone2s suggestion, without slide assembled to it, check to insure sear is engaging the hammer. Not being familiar with these 80% frames, in particular, but knowing a little about the AR types, and having to locate pin holes. If the sear pin pivot point isn't correctly located the sear may not intercept the hammers sear notch under the stresses of being fired.
You may also want to insure the hammer pin is flush with the frame on the left side too.
 
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My question currently, is the trigger bar you have a DA/SA model, or a DAK model which doesn't have a sear release capability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My question currently, is the trigger bar you have a DA/SA model, or a DAK model which doesn't have a sear release capability.
I looked online to compare the DAK to the DA/SA and it looks like I have the DA/SA model. I'll order another one just to ensure I'm correct. I appreciate everyone help with this. I initially decided to build this for fun and the satisfaction of it. I also wanted to commemorate my time in Iraq working for DOS as a contractor. My serial number reflects it 0517 (2005-2017). Diplomatic security uses the P229 and I wanted to build the same model but to my liking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll have to look it up but with all of the tools I needed (one time purchase) it was equivalent to a sig P229 legion. That is if you get a good deal on one. I was able to get tighter tolerances then sig. of course I'm having issues now but once resolved I'll really enjoy it. I took my time so the rail cuts took about 2 hours with the jig and hand files. I cerakoted it myself so that saved money as well. I also upgraded some parts like the SRT, grips, grip screws, and sights. Then their was the cost of the holster, mag holster, and Mec-Gar mags.
 

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How does it function during dry fire? Does it fire after cocking the hammer manually? What does it do after firing DA, holding trigger back and racking the slide? Does the hammer lock back, SRT functions normally and does it fire like it should?
 

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Johnnny13, I know it's late in the game, and off the subject, but your 80% frame... what exactly did you have to do, to complete it? Drill the pin holes, or mill the slide rails?
 

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Johnnny13, I know it's late in the game, and off the subject, but your 80% frame... what exactly did you have to do, to complete it? Drill the pin holes, or mill the slide rails?
I am not him, but I can tell you the answer: It's both. You have to cut the rails and drill two pins (Trigger and takedown lever) and the vertical hole through back of the frame for the mainspring strut.

I was giving this serious consideration before chickening out and just buying an M11A1 instead. If you are interested, this guy has a great series of videos on how to do the job:

 

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Makes me wonder how tight the tolerances are to the positioning those holes.

Adds a bit of uncertainty to identifying the cause of the trigger malfunction and failure to fire that the OP is reporting on this pistol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I had just linked this thread in the P365 forum. I forgot to mention that I solved the issue a few months later. It was a fitment issue on my end. The gun runs flawlessly. For a D/A S/A I'm really impressed.
374066
 
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