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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tried googling but only found one thread that didn’t conclusively answer my question.

The decocker on my mk25 has some wiggle to it and it often will sit at an angle as if the spring can’t push it all the way up.

I can push it up with my finger and it will stay there, but will fall back down sometimes.

Works fine but bothers me more than it should.

Would a new decocker spring fix this?

ETA:
*decocker moves around 1/8-1/4 (rough guess don’t a way to measure it right now) inch before engaging the spring. I haven’t noticed this on other sigs I’ve owned, but also just noticed this an hour or so ago.
 

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if the picture you have is of it sagging then mine's about the same. if you push it up it lines up with the horizontal line above it? it's like half a mm, 1 to 2 /32 inch, of movement in my eyes. I don't know if this is normal or not and now I'm in it to hear an answer too
 

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The decocker spring can be "strengthened" by removing it and straightening the spring out a little. When re-installing, be sure the decock lever is all the way up as you pull the outer end of the spring to engage the lever.

As to the decock lever being loose, that's fairly common. I have installed a brass shim on all my Classic P's, on the decock bearing shaft. The shim acts as both a spacer (to take up the looseness and help prevent frame scratching) and smooths the decock lever motion, acting as a bearing.

BTW, I don't release the decock lever to spring up at the bottom of its travel - instead, I ride the lever up with your thumb so it doesn't ding the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses guys. Bending spring did not change anything. Will try bending it again.

I’m being a bit overly OCD about this, but I want the lever to not sag like it is.

Pistols a sept 2019 manufacture, had it for 2 or 3 weeks or somewhere around there, round count is at 800, so it’s a pretty new gun.

I’ll keep messing around with it and will try a new spring.
 

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Both of my MK25’s have a little movement up and down before I feel resistance. And they stay down just like yours.

79FC4502-8CE0-41EA-9AE4-D592A8ED909B.jpeg

A453ACC2-2ED3-4B4C-87B0-978EFFA2BC9B.jpeg

It looks like my black MK25 does it a little further down than my FDE MK25. It doesn’t bother me at all.
 

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I have been converting numerous P224 DAKs to DA/SA and recognized a similar and common experience associated with the decocking levers. When comparing the other P-series single post decocker bearing, there seemed to often be some small amount of play, which I attributed to wearing in the decocker bearing. For my P224s, I wanted to use the factory part, which meant using a two post decocking bearing, which further meant drilling the frame for the second post.

During this process, I realized that a very tiny shim (and I do mean VERY tiny, thin, fragile will fold when you touch it, shim) could be inserted behind the decocking lever, which tightens/reduces the play and clearance, and actually slightly lifts the decocking lever to prevent rubbing against the frame. On a few of these, including fixing this issue on several older P229s, I added a second shim to furhter tighten, this time after adding the decocking lever, but before inserting/latching the decocking spring in the bearing post. To date, I have successfully modifed quite a few to eliminate this issue. My guess is that, if this doesn't tighten up the bearing/post and help eliminate the play, the decocker bearing itself, and/or the spring, may be the issue. The decocker bearing plate is designed to fit precisely, providing necessary clearances for installation, yet tight enough to prevent rotation by contacting other surfaces. It should rest firmly and flat inside the frame, which is visible with the mag and grip/grip panels removed.

The shim is tiny... did I mention that already? I measured with my calipers to get a very tight tolerance, and found an 18-8 stainless steel, 3/16" Bolt Size, 0.188-0.193" ID, .245-.255" OD, 0.001" thick shim would work well but just a little tight. So tight, in fact, that I needed a customized tool to slide the shim onto the bearing post. As luck would have it, the casing from a fired 223 rifle cartridge was just what I needed. To make it more functional, I squared up the end of the spent casing so that the casing will slip over the bearing post and then, when rotated and pushed, forces the tiny shim down the post. Be careful because any slight angle will push the shim into the casing, then you will have to fish it back out, but that was easy enough to do too.

This is what I used, referred to as a "Shim Flat Washer" on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K1FEVA/

I decided on using stainless steel shims for obvious reasons to prevent rust, but was concerned with the anodized aluminum alloy frame (potential for bimetallic/galvanic corrosion but reduced because of the large relative surface area of aluminium to the stainless steel), but felt like initial greasing and normal oiling (both are poor conductors so corrossion cannot/should not occur) and routine inspection justified the combination.

Image of the actual shims, 25 to a pack, with my special tool below.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have been converting numerous P224 DAKs to DA/SA and recognized a similar and common experience associated with the decocking levers. When comparing the other P-series single post decocker bearing, there seemed to often be some small amount of play, which I attributed to wearing in the decocker bearing. For my P224s, I wanted to use the factory part, which meant using a two post decocking bearing, which further meant drilling the frame for the second post.

During this process, I realized that a very tiny shim (and I do mean VERY tiny, thin, fragile will fold when you touch it, shim) could be inserted behind the decocking lever, which tightens/reduces the play and clearance, and actually slightly lifts the decocking lever to prevent rubbing against the frame. On a few of these, including fixing this issue on several older P229s, I added a second shim to furhter tighten, this time after adding the decocking lever, but before inserting/latching the decocking spring in the bearing post. To date, I have successfully modifed quite a few to eliminate this issue. My guess is that, if this doesn't tighten up the bearing/post and help eliminate the play, the decocker bearing itself, and/or the spring, may be the issue. The decocker bearing plate is designed to fit precisely, providing necessary clearances for installation, yet tight enough to prevent rotation by contacting other surfaces. It should rest firmly and flat inside the frame, which is visible with the mag and grip/grip panels removed.

The shim is tiny... did I mention that already? I measured with my calipers to get a very tight tolerance, and found an 18-8 stainless steel, 3/16" Bolt Size, 0.188-0.193" ID, .245-.255" OD, 0.001" thick shim would work well but just a little tight. So tight, in fact, that I needed a customized tool to slide the shim onto the bearing post. As luck would have it, the casing from a fired 223 rifle cartridge was just what I needed. To make it more functional, I squared up the end of the spent casing so that the casing will slip over the bearing post and then, when rotated and pushed, forces the tiny shim down the post. Be careful because any slight angle will push the shim into the casing, then you will have to fish it back out, but that was easy enough to do too.

This is what I used, referred to as a "Shim Flat Washer" on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K1FEVA/

I decided on using stainless steel shims for obvious reasons to prevent rust, but was concerned with the anodized aluminum alloy frame (potential for bimetallic/galvanic corrosion but reduced because of the large relative surface area of aluminium to the stainless steel), but felt like initial greasing and normal oiling (both are poor conductors so corrossion cannot/should not occur) and routine inspection justified the combination.

Image of the actual shims, 25 to a pack, with my special tool below.
I’ll have to give that a try. Thanks for the info! I’ll Pm you if I have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just picked up another mk25 RX and it has the same amount of play. Looked at a few other mk25s and they all had the same amount of play.

I’d have to say it seems absolutely normal, but I’m still gonna tinker with it and try to find a way to remove it.

I don’t recall my 229s or 225s I’ve owned doing that, but they were all older and I don’t have them anymore to confirm.
 

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It appears your pistol is normal. Good luck though on the adjustment process.
 
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Some of mine are like that, others are better and some are perfect. Doesn't hurt to try a new spring.
 
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Just wanted to chime in and say my P229 Legion is the exact same way. Decocker lever is slightly loose and will stay low if you let it just like all the pics here. It's annoying sure but I'm not sure it's annoying enough to NEED to fix it.
 

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Another note is that I have 2x P224 and neither are like that! Only the legion.

Random, weird, annoying and maybe one day I will get it tightened/adjusted/fixed/whatever.
 
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