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P226 magazine deformed (would not eject)

3K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  sigsauerpro 
#1 ·
Hello all,

I've been doing a lot of training with my venerable P226, and have encountered some problems that I have not heard of previously.

Most recently, I had a magazine that would not eject reliably. I initially blamed the pistol, a German-born one chambered in 9mm, manufactured in the early 90's. After removing the magazine release and reinstalling it, I could not identify any problem with it.

Upon closer inspection of the magazine, I found a burr/ridge along the upper side of the notch where it is retained within the grip. My release is on the left side, so the burr/ridge was on the upper right side of the magazine's retention notch.

It's apparent to me that the burr/ridge is new. It was just enough to keep the magazine from ejecting most of the time. After filing it down, the magazine now ejects normally.

Has anyone else encountered this? Reliability is obviously of concern. I assume I'm causing it, but have no idea how. My training is pretty agressive, in all elements, with speed reloads, on the move, etc. I've stepped on some magazines, but the damage to this one appears to have come from the pistol itself, perhaps from tugging too strongly on the magazine without the release fully depressed.

Any ideas?
 
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#2 ·
A quick call to SIG solved the riddle.

The magazine is aluminum. The magazine catch is steel. With use, the notch in the magazine can eventually become deformed.

After the malfunctions, I found the problem by running a finger over the notch in the magazine. If there is a ridge there, then it can eventually hang up the magazine when trying to eject it.
 
#4 ·
texaspilot, I'd be interested in seeing a photo of your "aluminum" P226 magazine. Is it a factory magazine, or aftermarket? If factory is it an original dovetail back, or zipper back magazine? They were steel from all I've ever examined, and spot welded together along the back to form the "tube". Newer magazines use "seamless welds". Take a magnet and see if it sticks to the magazine.
 
#5 ·
Hi Willard,

Thanks for your reply. According to the SIG rep today, some SIG factory mags are aluminum, and some are steel. I asked specifically about the Italian manufacturer (MagTec?), and the rep said some are aluminum, some are steel.

I'm posting a pic. I'm not sure there's much to see. The bluing was worn before, and is worn even more now that I filed down the ridge. It was at the top of the notch. Although quite thin it was interfering with the ejection.

Muffler Revolver
 
#11 ·
According to the SIG rep today, some SIG factory mags are aluminum, and some are steel.
They say many things.

All sorts of things.

Could be factual, but always take it with a grain of salt.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Just toss the mag and get a new one. I recommend Mec-Gar. I really like the 18 round magazines for the 226. Very reliable.
 
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#8 ·
texaspilot, thanks for taking the picture, and the Italian manufacture should be Mec-Gar, for the P226 magazine. If you get a chance, check it with a magnet...
 
#15 ·
Thanks for your reply.

According the the SIG rep I spoke with, even SIG factory mags (from two separate manufactures, including Mec-Gar), can be either aluminum or steel.

I didn't realize it when I initially posted, but this mag is a Pro Mag. However, it is steel, in that it holds a magnet. So I'm actually even more perplexed now!

Other than springs being old, the only other magazine problem I've encountered was after I stepped on one of the range, and didn't realize I'd bent the top edge where the rounds feed. Round-nosed FMJs fed fine on the range, but when I tried to chamber a JHP at home, the slide went "clunk" as the round jammed on the feed ramp. Good lesson learned!

So...how does the retention notch on a steel magazine get damaged?
 
#12 ·
As Edsel says . . .

That doesn't "look" at all like aluminum to me. Aluminum can't be blued, it can be anodized and the anodizing is much harder than the parent metal beneath - it does not wear off in the same shaded manner as the bluing has done in spots on your magazine. A magnet will confirm, as Willard mentioned.
 
#13 ·
After a little research, the Sig Rep wasn't entirely wrong... some "Mosquito" magazines were aluminum... can't comment on .22 conversions... some of them look "synthetic"!

The OPs problem was solved, and that's the bottom line...
 
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#18 ·
texaspilot, since revealed that the magazine in question was a Pro Mag, I won't be surprised. Trust me, and you probably have noted some of the other members have voiced skepticism, in that "valid" P226 magazines are steel. Normally the metal has a bit of heat treatment to stabilize their shape, and to maintain feed lip geometry, which controls the cartridge feeding. If not heat treated to give the metal springiness, then the pressure of the magazine spring, forcing the cartridges to the feed lips, would spread them apart, causing feeding problems. That same lack of proper heat treatment can allow the magazine catch to distort the locking notches.

My best advice is to get either Mec-Gar or Sig branded magazines,, don't waste your time trying to repair the Pro Mag, or trust your well being to it. Keep it for "Range Use Only", until you tire of it's performance, and discard in into the "recycle bin"

As far as Aluminum magazines, asides from the Sig Mosquito magazine, I know of no other Sig pistol magazines, except possibly the .22 conversion magazines, that are aluminum. Some have aluminum base plates, but not the body of the magazine itself, that I have been able to identify. Sig offers AR15/M16 aluminum magazines with their rifles, in addition to the various polymer manufactured magazines.

I hope this answered your question.
 
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