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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Ya'll
Probably I'm doing this a-backwards, but I got a great deal on and have now installed the EFK Firedragon Dual Action Buffer Spring kit in my Sig P220 in 45 ACP. Anybody have any experience with this item? I'll be test firing on Saturday and wanted to know if there are any idiosyncrasies or special maintenance procedures I need to be aware of. The new part was cleaned, lubed per instructions and installed without a hitch - eveything seems to be functioning perfectly.
Thanks as usual, have a great day, AL
 

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EFK makes good products, however I have found on a couple of occasions that in some pistols, due to tolerance stack-up, the dual-action buffer causes the slide to stop by the guide rod / spring assembly, rather than by hitting the locking insert. This may not be the case with your P220, but worth checking to avoid breaking the take down lever pin.

To check it, remove the slide, take out the barrel and guide rod assembly. Put the slide back on the frame and run it all the way back until it stops (against the locking insert). Put a pencil mark on the frame referenced to some point on the slide. Put the barrel, and guide rod assembly back in the slide and install on the frame as normal. Pull the slide all the way to the rear and see if the marks align as without the barrel, etc. If the slide doesn't make it back to the mark, the slide is being stopped by the guide rod / spring assembly. I wouldn't use it if that is the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi
Thanks for the info on my new recoil buffer assembly, much appreciated!
After following your instructions for checking full movement & stop points with the new recoil buffer installed everything looked to be fitted correctly.
Upon test firing, using factory 7-rnd magazine and Winchester 230 FMJ, I suffered my 1st FTF of the 2nd rnd from the magazine. In my estimation, the slide did not fully cycle and wound up "pinching" the cartridge case about half way between the case mouth and the rim, effectively it was not fully stripped from the magazine, but hung up.
After another 28 rounds, I had 2 additional FTF with the same symptom.
At this point, I decided to take a look at the double spring buffer for any signs of problems, and to recheck with new pencil marks verifying travel extremes. To my surprise, I found the take-down lever to be extemely hard to turn to the disassemble position to do a field strip for inspection.
I cleaned and relubricated the weapon & reinstalled the factory recoil spring and guide, and once again found the take-down lever to be extremely difficult to return to the assembled/operational position. I tested again, firing 100 rounds of various loads and the weapon functions as normal again.
I'm concerned that I might have done some damage, the take-down lever is REALLY tight to turn....Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance, AL
 

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I suspect that, somehow, the takedown pin got hit by the rod going solid and stopping the slide. It may have tested OK manually, but when firing, there still may not have been quite enough clearance under the shock load, and the pin gave (bent) a very small amount. The best way to check is by replacing the takedown pin. If the new pin works as it did originally, I would suggest not using the EFK Rod. Some of the pistols have more clearance than others, strictly due to tolerances. I had a 226 where the EFK Rod assembly (made for the 226) went solid about an 1/8" ahead of insert contact, so we couldn't use it in that pistol. Others, it works fine.

I should also mention that I have had Sigs with the standard guide rod assembly "go solid" due to tolerance problems. In those cases I have resorted to the Wolff equivalent spring, instead of the standard Sig trifilar spring, because the Wolff springs, generally, have a shorter solid height than the Sig springs. The test you made is a good one to make on any Sig pistol, new or old. Just some added info.
 

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I also had one of these in my 229 and it would cause FTF and FTE a lot, I checked and it was very difficult to reach slide lock point, so I removed it and has been great ever since. I'm sorry to hear about your problem with a possible bent pin.

Steve
 

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Hi
Thanks for the info on my new recoil buffer assembly, much appreciated!
After following your instructions for checking full movement & stop points with the new recoil buffer installed everything looked to be fitted correctly.
Upon test firing, using factory 7-rnd magazine and Winchester 230 FMJ, I suffered my 1st FTF of the 2nd rnd from the magazine. In my estimation, the slide did not fully cycle and wound up "pinching" the cartridge case about half way between the case mouth and the rim, effectively it was not fully stripped from the magazine, but hung up.
After another 28 rounds, I had 2 additional FTF with the same symptom.
At this point, I decided to take a look at the double spring buffer for any signs of problems, and to recheck with new pencil marks verifying travel extremes. To my surprise, I found the take-down lever to be extemely hard to turn to the disassemble position to do a field strip for inspection.
I cleaned and relubricated the weapon & reinstalled the factory recoil spring and guide, and once again found the take-down lever to be extremely difficult to return to the assembled/operational position. I tested again, firing 100 rounds of various loads and the weapon functions as normal again.
I'm concerned that I might have done some damage, the take-down lever is REALLY tight to turn....Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance, AL
I received mine and decided to check the travel of the slide to see where the recoil rod will hit the take down pin as per Gerry R's instructions. The first mark (farthest left) is with the EFK dual recoil spring buffer installed with the slide pulled back at it's maximum. The second is the same but with the barrel, a Steve Bedair SS guide rod and oem SIG tri spring. The last mark is with the slide all the way back on the frame with the barrel, recoil rod removed from the slide. It looks to be more than 1/4" difference from where the Steve Bedair guide rod would let the slide go back and about 1/2" difference with the barrel and guide rod assembly removed.
 

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I marked the EFK assembly with a red sharpie to see if it hits the take down pin which I found that is what is stopping the slide from going back any further than the other marks. I'm not sure if the spring rates for the EFK are sufficient to stop the slide from hitting the take down pin. Maybe with regular ball ammo it may not but with higher velocity rounds it may. I don't want to take the risk in damaging alloy fram and take down pin on my P220 Combat. I'm going to return it to EFK. I may try the DPMS recoil reduction 3 spring system as I've had great results with it on my CZ P-01.
 
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