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I have the same issue when I dry fire however, when I shoot live rounds it's fine. Try shooting it normally and Don't try to get it to fail to reset. I'm pretty OCD with stuff like this and can tell you it should be fine. It's like a lot of things in life. You can find a problem in everything if you look hard enough. Enjoy the gun.


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I bought a 320 RX full size today, and while I was there I checked out a sub compact, and it had the double click, but mine does not. FWIW I think the sub compact had a slightly more crisp trigger.
 

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steved13 that's the combo I have, 320sc and 320rx. My 320rx is going to Robert burke for a trigger job tomorrow.

I did replace the 320sc frame with a tan medium frame with rails. I like the medium much better than the small.
 

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My new 320C 4 days old is off to Sig, the dreaded bang, bang, click, the dealer tried blaming on Ammo, Me, trigger control, if it's not right when it comes back i'm done. I've had Glock, Ruger, M&P,Beretta, even a 320 Fullsize never had this. I really couldn't have a bang ,bang, click carry gun and trust it. On sig talk they have changed milling on slides with pics supposedly changed some springs doesn't give one a warm fuzzy. link to another owner with same problem.


Another Everyone tries to blame the Gun owner I had mine 2 days 3 trips to range with cleanings after each.
Waiting for it to come back. Very scared for the Army guys, did 27 years(retired 2007) never had a gun totally fail ever.
 

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Was the gun going into battery? How cold was it or were you at an indoor range? What grease were you using? What was the total number of rounds you put through it?

I have a 320 compact and a 320 sub compact with thousands of rounds through both. I believe I have had one Jam with the sub compact. It was with a aluminium cased round. As you can see I live in Fla. so no cold shooting. This malfunction may have been with one of my other guns. It was awhile ago. So I am not sure. My wife shoots these guns also.
 

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Inside and outside 50 degrees day ranges, bullet weights from 115 to 147, Lubes tried Remoil, Breakfree, Gunzilla, Ballistoll, Also used Tetra grease on rails twice. kinda of rules out lube. Cleaned w/ Gunscrubber or Alcohol between range sessions and relube. It's not resetting when slide cycles and round chambers. Intermittent 2 or three times a magazine.
 

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Definitely not a weapon to take to war at least my heavy *** Beretta went bang when I was in Iraq and Afghanistan. Four other Striker Fired guns and never weird stuff like no double clicks etc. It's like they over engineered the whole pistol from the FCU to the Slide with safety springs begging to be lost during field cleanings.
 

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Inside and outside 50 degrees day ranges, bullet weights from 115 to 147, Lubes tried Remoil, Breakfree, Gunzilla, Ballistoll, Also used Tetra grease on rails twice. kinda of rules out lube. Cleaned w/ Gunscrubber or Alcohol between range sessions and relube. It's not resetting when slide cycles and round chambers. Intermittent 2 or three times a magazine.
Have you double checked to make sure the striker channel is bone dry? There should be no lube in this area.
 

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... It's like they over engineered the whole pistol from the FCU to the Slide with safety springs begging to be lost during field cleanings.
There should be NO taking out of any springs. You do not need to remove the striker assembly at all during cleaning. In fact, if I recall correctly, isn't there a page in the manual telling you to NOT oil, or allow oil to flow into the striker assembly?

I run my pretty dry. Maybe a bit of Hexagonal Boron Nitride around the take down lever and maybe some in the barrel lock groove, but I never take out the striker. Most I do is run a nylon brush down the bore and around the barrel area and maybe around the firing area of the FCU. That's it.

Massad Ayoob shot the P320 when it came out for a month at various training seminars. He let his students shoot it as well. No jams, or malfunctions once, no matter who fired it, and round count over a thousand rounds and no cleaning. I think this is one pistol that like it more on the dry side of lubrication. article I got the info from: Massad Ayoob Tests the Sig Sauer P320 9mm

ADDENDUM: on page 38 it has WARNING Do not lubricate the striker or allow lubricant to flow into the striker channel of the slide. Pretty explicit about it along with a picture.
 
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I had a Full Size 320 nary a problem feed everything great pistol. Only thing was the stinging trigger which Sig addressed with the Adverse trigger. They wanted to charge owners 85.00 to sent in guns and rectify the problem. That kind of frosted me. Fast forward several years I really enjoyed that first Sig and thought I give them another try (Big Mistake) IT'S bad at sig getting repaired right now. Gibbs if you have never owned a striker gun before and cleaned a striker channel with alcohol and swabs you will. Carbon and lube get in that area after shooting after a few hundred or thousand rounds a few QTIPS will clean it out reinsert striker and good-to-go. It's a common thing to do on a striker gun. a 5 minute job can save you a world of hurt. Glock, M&P, Ruger, don't tell every one how to do this for liability reasons but a competent gun owner will learn to maintain their gun. If you prefer to wait until failure and take to a gunsmith thats the other option.

Hexagonal Boron Nitride Where is this in the Manual?
 

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I had a Full Size 320 nary a problem feed everything great pistol. Only thing was the stinging trigger which Sig addressed with the Adverse trigger. They wanted to charge owners 85.00 to sent in guns and rectify the problem. That kind of frosted me. Fast forward several years I really enjoyed that first Sig and thought I give them another try (Big Mistake) IT'S bad at sig getting repaired right now. Gibbs if you have never owned a striker gun before and cleaned a striker channel with alcohol and swabs you will. Carbon and lube get in that area after shooting after a few hundred or thousand rounds a few QTIPS will clean it out reinsert striker and good-to-go. It's a common thing to do on a striker gun. a 5 minute job can save you a world of hurt. Glock, M&P, Ruger, don't tell every one how to do this for liability reasons but a competent gun owner will learn to maintain their gun. If you prefer to wait until failure and take to a gunsmith thats the other option.
I put an plastic pick down the striker channel to get residue out. I also run a plastic pick behind the extractor to remove debris. I wipe the face of the breach where striker exits with a damp cleaning patch(Clp) then dry. Also use the pick to clean corners of the breach. This has kept my 2 320's running through thousands of rounds
 

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I had a Full Size 320 nary a problem feed everything great pistol. Only thing was the stinging trigger which Sig addressed with the Adverse trigger. They wanted to charge owners 85.00 to sent in guns and rectify the problem. That kind of frosted me. Fast forward several years...

Hexagonal Boron Nitride Where is this in the Manual?

Several years? The P320 chambered in 9×19mm Parabellum was introduced in the North American market on January 15, 2014 followed by the .45 ACP compact model at the Shot show in January 2015. So I think they are fairly recent.

Yes I have owned several striker fired weapons. Taurus Millennium Pro .45 and Millennium GII in 9mm. Also, if you think about it, most bolt action rifles would be striker fired, as they fire with the release in similar fashion.

HBN is not in the manual. I happen to have some of it for reloading. Better lubricant, most feel, than dry Molybdenum. You could use also use dry graphite. Point is, oil lubes but also attract lint and dirt. If I have the chance to use a superior lubricant I'm going to use it.

Just keep the excess oil out of the striker channel.
 

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I have a theory. The sear and the striker have to "catch" good and hold during the firing. I think it is important that no oil or further lubrication comes out of the striker down into the area of the trigger sear. I am wondering, my theory, is that the extra bit of friction loss causes the striker to loose grip with the sear and go forward during the backward slap of the recoiling slide. The striker goes forward, protrudes from the bolt face and retracts before the new bullet is stripped from the magazine and goes into battery. You pull the trigger, but the striker is already "de-cocked" as it is, and nothing happens.

Would be interesting to see if one that does this, if the shooter would pull back slightly, about 1/2 " should do, enough to re-engage the striker, but not pull the bullet out of battery, and then retry shooting again.
 

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I've owned Pistols for years and is a strange issue. In fact the dealer I bought it from lubed it dripping wet and it seemed to help. But that's not the way to run a SIG or Striker Pistol.
It's back at sig now so we will see. Bruce @ Gray guns even talks about timing between the sear and ramp that trigger bar rides on 6:04 in Video and says the 320 reset has nothing to do with slide moving. (that's different). Hopefully mine comes back right I'm sure it's in FCU.
 

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... "says the 320 reset has nothing to do with slide moving. (that's different)"

Well that is odd. I know if I have either of my P320 pistols taken down, or at least Positively known to be unloaded, and dry fire it, the sound and feel is totally different than immediately re-pulling the trigger again. Now, if I pull back slightly on the slide I can dry fire the pistol again. I know the striker is reset since if I put my one finger next to the trigger and pull slowly I can feel and hear that first click and then allow the trigger to go back a bit further and hear the 2nd click. Just dry firing I can't hear the 2 clicks. ONLY by slowly pulling back on the trigger with the strong index finger AND holding or pushing forward on the trigger with the weak hand finger can I feel/hear the double click. I get this when the slide is pulled back just a little bit. So, that comment that Gray makes about the slide resetting the striker don't figure in for me.
 
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