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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I went to pick up a Sig P239 SAS Gen 2 9mm. While I was there they gave me a free range pass so I couldn't pass that up. Went in and purchased some Federal Range ammo in 115 gn.

I took my new Sig out of the box and it had plenty of oil on it so I wiped off the excess and loaded up both mags. Four shots in and failure to fire, second mag I had one failure to fire and to failures to go fully into battery. Three more mags and one of the two or both problems persisted, at least three more ftf and two more failures to go fully into battery. Each time I had a FTF I could pull the trigger and it would go bang.

Note:
The FTF on the second magazine I did eject the round and the primer hadn't even been struck. On the out of batteries I could push the slide forward and it would go into battery and fire when I pulled the trigger. When I say out of battery I mean maybe 1/8" (ie. just enough).

I finished that box and was a little let down after getting a new Sig I have wanted for so long. I asked the RO at the counter his thoughts and he looked it over and we agreed it was tight, it's a Sig. He asked what ammo I used and although he thought that was fine he grabbed a box of 124 and loaded up some mags. Went back on line and out of two mags I had one FTF. I told him maybe it just needs a good cleaning and some more break in, he agreed abd said try some more 124 and maybe it would help break it in better (inertia I guess).

Sorry to be so long winded, just wanted to be as detailed as possible. I'm no rookie shooter and BO I wasn't limp wristing. Lol

Any thoughts or suggestions? Any of you have similar experiences when new?
 

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The oil you observed, is "preservative", not lubrication in nature. This includes what your magazines had on them, and it becomes a somewhat sticky mess.

Sigs are tight, and have strong springs when new, as they start the long process of wearing in, then out. If you page back through a lot of the threads, here on the forum, you will notice a trend. New weapons need to be cleaned of their preservatives, and lubricated before a first successful range experience. Grease where things slide, and oil where they pivot, or rotate.
In most cases I believe 9mm 115 grain is a little light on power to break in most of these new Sigs. Once broken in, they should function fine, but that could take maybe 500 rounds minimum.

Get her cleaned and lubricated well, and your next range visit shouldn't be so frantic!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats kinda what I was thinking as far as the out of batteries, but that doesn't explain the ftf or the primer with no strike.

I'm going to try to go back to the range today if possible, maybe Monday. I was going to send the slide to Sig for a bead blast, but now I want to shoot it enough to make sure I don't need to send the whole gun.
 

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Usually a good clean and lube, For a first outing I try to use Speer lawman for 9mm and 40 S&W. for the first box or two.
 

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IIRC, there have been a couple of reports here lately of new P239s with feed issues. Return trips to SIG resulting in barrel replacement and/or feed ramp polishing.

Probably best to clean and lube thoroughly, try different brands/weights of ammo and if a problem persists, contact SIG.
 

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I always thoroughly clean and lube a new gun and never had a problem with a Sig. Make sure to disassemble and thoroughly clean the mags inside and out. No lube on or in mags.
 

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I've never taken a new SIG "out of the box" and fired it so, really, what do I know.

That said, Willard's advice is spot on IMHO and exactly how I do it.
Same here. The one time one of my weekly group did this, they had the same problem as the OP.

We field stripped the gun, lubed it up good and he went back in the range and shot it with no further problems.
 

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slide and frame rails have to be wet (oil or grease) on 1911s too, Sigs use to include in the box a plastic tube with grease for the rails, don't know if they still do.
 

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I believe you can find this type of post on every fire arm blog on the internet. If you mention the word “cosmoline” to old-time leathernecks or to most military veterans, and you will likely get grimaces of disgust as they remember the chore of removing the sticky goo from their rifles. Back in my Vietnam days I even heard stories of World War II aircrews using boiling water to remove grease from .50 caliber Browning machine guns. “Cosmoline” was at one time trademarked, and it is now used as the generic term for grease preservatives.

The next question I have read over and over again is “... what bests dissolves that packing grease...” The general answer is cleaning solvent. The specific answer is all over the map. Many o’ltimers like me started with Hoppe’s #9 and it worked great. But fluids have evolved. Some like mineral spirts or paint thinner...non-chlorinated version of aerosol brake cleaner for the tough jobs...still others like the more modern gun specific solvents like Frog Lube Solvent...

The last poll I saw on this subject Hoppe’s was just nudged out by break cleaner. If you use break cleaner, like I tried, I recommend you clean in the garage or outside -that stuff stinks, phew!...
 

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Like many have mentioned, my Sigs both came dripping with preservative. Cleaning that off was job #1. No FTFs or any other F-acronym, though have only shot 115gr Federal FMJ and Sig JHP 147s, but now at about 1500 rounds through both 239 and 225-a1. Good luck to the OP and hope it breaks in well.
 

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slide and frame rails have to be wet (oil or grease) on 1911s too, Sigs use to include in the box a plastic tube with grease for the rails, don't know if they still do.
I still have my little sample tube of TW25B. It is a great gun grease. I have TW25B on most of my Sigs along with CPL and gun oil. The best gun/firearm grease is another 25,000 pages of blog posts. I am now using Mobil 1 Synthetic or the old Lubriplate (on Amazon) on rifles. In the future I am going to try M-Pro 7 Gun Oil on my Sigs since it has great reviews. I used Birchwood casey synthetic gun oil with good results on my Sigs today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Man! Sig CS is awesome in case you didn't already know!

I was going to just go shoot it again but decided to see what Sig said, so I called them.

Rep got my SN (November 2016 gun), then asked me to detail every single FTF and OB I had, a general statement wasn't good enough. He said its probably just tight and it has rust preventative on it, clean it off, lube it up, shoot another 150 ball, if I have a problem or not let them know for their records. "IF it still gives you ANY trouble we will get it right in and resolved, that's unacceptable!"

Coming from someone that has a lot of faith in Glock, and having called Springfield and being very impressed with their CS, I have to say that was one of the most fait inspiring experiences I've had dealing with a gun company. I realize it's just talk so far, but if their in house is as good as their phone calls then I'm set.

Go Sig,
Chris
 

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My P239 had a case of light strikes. It turned out to be too much frog lube in the firing pin channel. Cleaned it out and it was good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update:

Last night I scrubbed my 239, it was pretty nasty since I fired it without an initial cleaning.

I took3 boxes of Fiocchi and 1 bkx American Eagle 115 gn. Put a target at 7 yards. My intention was just break in so I was mainly focusing on function. I just aimed COM.

150 rounds and not one issue like before, all rounds fired and no out of battery. I did have two failures to hold slide open on last round but that doesn't bother me nearly as bad as the other issues I was having. I checked multiple empties and they looked good including the primer dimple. I think the last round hold open will settle itself after some more break in.

I will clean it and put some more ammo through it and then if all is well I'll start carrying it.
 

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I love stories with happy endings! My P239-40 SAS, purchased lightly used, has been flawless since the 1st round.
 
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Well now, that's is good news.

I've found that with my grip on the P239 in particular, trapping the slide catch lever when I'm shooting is very easy, resulting in failure of the slide to lock back on empty.

I've pretty much resolved that issue my other SIGs with grip adjustment, but on the 239 I went as far as modifying the catch lever tab. Something about the 239 shape seemed to make it more susceptible. Here's the mod details: http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-gunsmithing/47092-p239-slide-lock-lever-mod.html
 
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