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Discussion Starter #21
So I was able to shoot a little after work today before some trap.
Unfortunately it was only 10 rounds. I started with the 22lb spring then the 23lb spring for hotter loads.

I think anything non nuclear will be 22lb but I need to get a few hundred rounds down range before I decide.
I know too much spring is also a bad thing as it will beat up the gun.

I frogot how much more power 10mm has compared to all other semi auto pistol rounds my 180gr bullet over 9.5gr of longshot had a decent fireball. Not H110 357 mag fireball but it was more flash than I've seen from a semi auto in a while.
 

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I have gone through this thread, post by post, at least three times. I realize I still have volumes of information to learn. A little confused in parts of it but I will reach a point of understanding everything mentioned. I will (and have been) learning a lot from this one thread and the forum in general.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
I have gone through this thread, post by post, at least three times. I realize I still have volumes of information to learn. A little confused in parts of it but I will reach a point of understanding everything mentioned. I will (and have been) learning a lot from this one thread and the forum in general.
If you have any questions ask away.
 

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I appreciate your endeavors in this project as I'm a 10mm aficionado. I'm playing Devil's advocate here; this is no l disrespect to you. It's me being a very skeptical curmudgeon based on my experience and knowledge of the P250/P320 and the 10mm.

If I have information that something is likely to fail then why bother unless you're doing it for bathroom time with the funnies and grins?

It can't handle it. There are reports of the P250/P320 FCU cracking with .357 SIG on this site. If the FCU can't handle .357 SIG, what makes you think it can handle full power 10mm? If you had a resigned 80% FCU with the longest slide rails possible, appropriate springs and a recoil dampening rod then perhaps it may work. I admit that I've been thinking about a 10mm P250 build myself. We share this curiosity.

Putting a mag or two through your project isn't proof of feasibility, performance or reliablity.

So you modified a .357 SIG or .40 S&W barrel to chamber 10mm, big deal. I expect all of my firearms to be death and taxes reliable. I really don't want to have my FCU to fail if I'm in a wilderness area and I'm carrying a 10mm to protect myself and those with me against aggressive game such as bear, cougars or coyotes.

Do Mac's (Military Arms Channel on youtube) torture test with your 10mm build. You probably can't afford to do a Mac's gauntlet or torture test because of ammo price gouging unless you reload and you can get the components. Odds are it will fail with a cracked FCU. SIG won't warranty replacing the FCU as it's not a supported caliber.

The 10mm has been very problematic with reliability because of how hard it is on the firearm and the operator. I own three 10mm pistols; one an FBI S&W 1076. 10mm is a brutal round which is why the FBI pud loaded it which spawned the .40 S&W which should probably be more appropriately called the 10mm special. Female and smaller build male FBI agents couldn't qualify with full power 10mm which is what spawned the 10mm Fedlite load and subsequently the .40 S&W.

Would I love to see a 10mm SIG P250 and P320? Absolutely. However, SIG pud built the FCU. The FCU needs to have longer slide rails which would also contribute to accuracy. If I ever endeavor on this project, I would do it with a more beefy FCU with longer slide rails.

I share Mac's contempt for the .40 S&W. It was the last handgun caliber I acquired in my collection. 10mm excites me like it does for Mac; .40 S&W is meh.
 
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Discussion Starter #25
Well thanks for you opinion. I will take that into account.
Anything mechanical can and will fail eventually the question that I will find out is when. Can I afford to do MACs torture test yes. Do I want to NO.
Will I shoot this and shoot it allot YES.

Like you eluded above 10mm is hard on guns and minus a 10mm revolver continued use of full power or "nuclear" loads will break something more likely sooner rather than later. Like many 10mm guns out there (1911s I'm looking at you)

Interesting how .40S&W is Meh to you but 10mm is so exciting....
40 while is what it is still has some very interesting loads out there.
What other cartridges excite you?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Unfortunately with our new baby boy 11/11/20 I havent been able to get out and shoot it since. I have had some time at night to load more 10mm so I have plenty to shoot just need to get out to the range. Over the next week or so I should be able to get out and shoot as i have a few short days at work
 

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Similarly, that's why I have an XDM-10.
For the life of me I can’t figure out why Sig hasn’t produced a 10mm 320. I keep a G20 only because Sig hasn’t stepped up yet.


I look forward to your continued sharing of your results from this most interdasting project, BajaJames!
Unfortunately with our new baby boy 11/11/20 I havent been able to get out and shoot it since. I have had some time at night to load more 10mm so I have plenty to shoot just need to get out to the range. Over the next week or so I should be able to get out and shoot as i have a few short days at work
 

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For the life of me I can’t figure out why Sig hasn’t produced a 10mm 320. I keep a G20 only because Sig hasn’t stepped up yet.
Given the years of experience that Glock has with the G20, I'll be keeping my G20 Gen 4. Probably the only Glock I'll ever own. Unless I give into an urge to buy the G40. :)

But I am anxiously waiting to see the production custom 10mm P320 from Bruce Gray.
 
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I had no idea Mr. Gray was going to produce a 10mm. I question my life choices now! :rolleyes:
 

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Like you eluded above 10mm is hard on guns and minus a 10mm revolver continued use of full power or "nuclear" loads will break something more likely sooner rather than later. Like many 10mm guns out there (1911s I'm looking at you)

Interesting how .40S&W is Meh to you but 10mm is so exciting....
40 while is what it is still has some very interesting loads out there.
I share MAC's rant on the .40 S&W being a PUD LOADED 10mm.
I don't want a PUD LOADED cartridge.

What other cartridges excite you?
These are exotic calibers or lesser mainstream calibers for me. My mainstream calibers for me are .22 LR, 9x19mm and 12 GA.

For handgun; 5.7x28mm, .357 magnum, .44 magnum and .45 Colt and .410 shotshells. I don't see the purpose of .38 or .44 special when you can just build a slightly beefier revolver that handles magnum rounds; if you want to shoot special you can through them. However, cleaning the revolver chambers of shooting special through a magnum we all w is a chore. We have J-frame .357 magnums, I own some. It's trivial to make a five round .44 magnum revolver which I believe would make it a frame sized smaller than the S&W 29/629 or it would be a smaller form factor with the smaller cylinder. My two .44 magnum revolvers S&W 29 Bounty Hunter and 29 are snubnose with 3" and 2⅝" barrels respectively. I bought them strictly to have a CCW that's effective against bear plus I want a pair of revolvers that will go with a matching lever action .44 that I'm going to acquire in the future.

I do not own a single .38 or .44 special revolver and refuse to for this reason. I tell my CCW students who are first time shooters who want to go revolver and I don't dissuade them from this if that's their choice, if you're going to get a revolver, get a magnum revolver. Don't waste your money on a .38 special. Go magnum. You lose the flexibility of being able to shoot magnum rounds if you buy a special only revolver.

For rifle (which includes AR pistol); .300 BLK, 7.62mm NATO, 9x39mm and .458 SOCOM. I was into 5.45x39mm. My S&W M&P15R is chambered in it but since the importation ban of 7N6 and being unable to find anymore of the Eastern Bloc surplus imported spam cans of ammo, there's not much point in having it anymore. I bought it over a decade ago when 7N6 was cheap and prior to the importation ban.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I share MAC's rant on the .40 S&W being a PUD LOADED 10mm.
I don't want a PUD LOADED cartridge.


These are exotic calibers or lesser mainstream calibers for me. My mainstream calibers for me are .22 LR, 9x19mm and 12 GA.

For handgun; 5.7x28mm, .357 magnum, .44 magnum and .45 Colt and .410 shotshells. I don't see the purpose of .38 or .44 special when you can just build a slightly beefier revolver that handles magnum rounds; if you want to shoot special you can through them. However, cleaning the revolver chambers of shooting special through a magnum we all w is a chore. We have J-frame .357 magnums, I own some. It's trivial to make a five round .44 magnum revolver which I believe would make it a frame sized smaller than the S&W 29/629 or it would be a smaller form factor with the smaller cylinder. My two .44 magnum revolvers S&W 29 Bounty Hunter and 29 are snubnose with 3" and 2⅝" barrels respectively. I bought them strictly to have a CCW that's effective against bear plus I want a pair of revolvers that will go with a matching lever action .44 that I'm going to acquire in the future.

I do not own a single .38 or .44 special revolver and refuse to for this reason. I tell my CCW students who are first time shooters who want to go revolver and I don't dissuade them from this if that's their choice, if you're going to get a revolver, get a magnum revolver. Don't waste your money on a .38 special. Go magnum. You lose the flexibility of being able to shoot magnum rounds if you buy a special only revolver.

For rifle (which includes AR pistol); .300 BLK, 7.62mm NATO, 9x39mm and .458 SOCOM. I was into 5.45x39mm. My S&W M&P15R is chambered in it but since the importation ban of 7N6 and being unable to find anymore of the Eastern Bloc surplus imported spam cans of ammo, there's not much point in having it anymore. I bought it over a decade ago when 7N6 was cheap and prior to the importation ban.
So It would be safe to say you dont reload....
You can leave all the 40 on the shelf for the rest of us. Most 10mm off the shelf ammo out there is marginally (30 to 50fps) hotter than 40 so I dont see your point here. MAC makes money making videos and is to be taken with a grain of salt.
 

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So It would be safe to say you dont reload....
Wrong. I reload. I have no idea why you want to go down this tangent with me but I'll take the troll bait and try to salvage this into an intellectual discussion based on my experience.

I've been reloading off and on since 1993. I own two presses; an RCBS Rockchucker with a Piggyback III and a Hornady Lock-N-Load AP. I have more brass than I know what to do with. I go through my dry reloading periods when it's just cheaper for me to buy factory ammo. Prior to COVID-19, I bought my ammo instead of reloading as I factor in my time to reload. If it's not worth my time to reload then I'll just buy factory. When I said previously that I shoot predominately .22 LR, 9x19mm and 12 GA it's because of the simple fact that's the perfect balance of economics factored in with my time. Yes, I still take my 10mms out once in awhile. However, it makes sense for me to shoot what I predominately CCW and use for home and personal defense. I live in an apartment complex so it makes more sense for me to use a shotgun instead of a rifle as I don't want to hit the neighbor's kid should it hit the fan. When I go on road trips where I'm driving through areas where you can hear dueling banjos, I take a rifle with me as I know that I'm on my own.

If anything gets you into reloading, it's 10mm and shooting magnum revolver calibers because of the ammo cost and if you want custom tailored 9x19mm subsonic rounds with heavier than 147 grain bullets. The cost savings becomes worth your time. My preferred 9x19mm rounds are subsonic. I also prefer truncated cone or flat point bullets as they leave nice neat holes in the target making it easier to assess and score your progress during a range session.

Another thing that will get you into reloading is if you want to make your own custom minishells (shorter than 2¾"). Herter's (Cabela's brand) and NSI made 2¼" minishells. For some reason they discontinued them. If you know anything about minishells and shotguns in general, you know that 2¼" are the shortest shells that will reliably feed in a Remington 870 which makes a 7+1 2¾" capacity Rem870 to an 8+1 2¼" capacity Rem870. This is the big selling point of the Keltec KSG. You get 12+12+1 of the Aguila 1¾" minishells in it plus the dual mag tubes.

With the 2¼" shells you lose three 00B pellets with the shorter shells. I prefer having the additional round than the additional 3 00B pellets per round in the mag tube. There's no easy way to modify a Rem870 to handle minishells and if you find a way to modify it chances are it won't cycle 2¾+" shells. We all know that if you have a shotgun with a fixed tubular magazine that minishells become attractive as shotguns are on the ammunition gluttony side plus it a more viable tactical option to have additional rounds in the tube.

Most 10mm off the shelf ammo out there is marginally (30 to 50fps) hotter than 40 so I dont see your point here.
Based on this logic of yours I don't see the point of bothering to make a 10mm P320. If it's only ~50fps difference, why bother? If I'm going to the trouble to shoot 10mm, I'm going to want to shoot hot 10mm. MAC also used hot 10mm Underwood ammo in that video, not pud loaded Fedlite loads except when he put .40 S&W through his civilian 1076 just to see if they would reliably cycle in his pistol which they did. Someone who is carrying 10mm is going to want to carry hot 10mm. Alaska DPS troopers have the option of carrying a G-20 in 10mm. Why? As defense against bear. If I was in an area where I had to worry about Yogi eyeballing me instead of a picnic basket, I certainly would want a hot 10mm, .41 or even better a .44 magnum and a shotgun loaded with slugs. I wouldn't want to have a pud loaded .40 S&W.

Same thing goes if I'm going to use .357 or .44 magnum ammunition. I'm going to want to shoot hot magnum ammunition. It's pretty much common knowledge that the .40 S&W is a 10mm special. The advantage of the .40 S&W over the 10mm is that you can drop a .40 S&W barrel and use a .40 S&W magazine in a 9x19mm frame and it will work. This is how the S&W 4006 came about, it's just a 5906 chambered in .40 S&W.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Wrong. I reload. I have no idea why you want to go down this tangent with me but I'll take the troll bait and try to salvage this into an intellectual discussion based on my experience.

I've been reloading off and on since 1993. I own two presses; an RCBS Rockchucker with a Piggyback III and a Hornady Lock-N-Load AP. I have more brass than I know what to do with. I go through my dry reloading periods when it's just cheaper for me to buy factory ammo. Prior to COVID-19, I bought my ammo instead of reloading as I factor in my time to reload. If it's not worth my time to reload then I'll just buy factory. When I said previously that I shoot predominately .22 LR, 9x19mm and 12 GA it's because of the simple fact that's the perfect balance of economics factored in with my time. Yes, I still take my 10mms out once in awhile. However, it makes sense for me to shoot what I predominately CCW and use for home and personal defense. I live in an apartment complex so it makes more sense for me to use a shotgun instead of a rifle as I don't want to hit the neighbor's kid should it hit the fan. When I go on road trips where I'm driving through areas where you can hear dueling banjos, I take a rifle with me as I know that I'm on my own.

If anything gets you into reloading, it's 10mm and shooting magnum revolver calibers because of the ammo cost and if you want custom tailored 9x19mm subsonic rounds with heavier than 147 grain bullets. The cost savings becomes worth your time. My preferred 9x19mm rounds are subsonic. I also prefer truncated cone or flat point bullets as they leave nice neat holes in the target making it easier to assess and score your progress during a range session.

Another thing that will get you into reloading is if you want to make your own custom minishells (shorter than 2¾"). Herter's (Cabela's brand) and NSI made 2¼" minishells. For some reason they discontinued them. If you know anything about minishells and shotguns in general, you know that 2¼" are the shortest shells that will reliably feed in a Remington 870 which makes a 7+1 2¾" capacity Rem870 to an 8+1 2¼" capacity Rem870. This is the big selling point of the Keltec KSG. You get 12+12+1 of the Aguila 1¾" minishells in it plus the dual mag tubes.

With the 2¼" shells you lose three 00B pellets with the shorter shells. I prefer having the additional round than the additional 3 00B pellets per round in the mag tube. There's no easy way to modify a Rem870 to handle minishells and if you find a way to modify it chances are it won't cycle 2¾+" shells. We all know that if you have a shotgun with a fixed tubular magazine that minishells become attractive as shotguns are on the ammunition gluttony side plus it a more viable tactical option to have additional rounds in the tube.



Based on this logic of yours I don't see the point of bothering to make a 10mm P320. If it's only ~50fps difference, why bother? If I'm going to the trouble to shoot 10mm, I'm going to want to shoot hot 10mm. MAC also used hot 10mm Underwood ammo in that video, not pud loaded Fedlite loads except when he put .40 S&W through his civilian 1076 just to see if they would reliably cycle in his pistol which they did. Someone who is carrying 10mm is going to want to carry hot 10mm. Alaska DPS troopers have the option of carrying a G-20 in 10mm. Why? As defense against bear. If I was in an area where I had to worry about Yogi eyeballing me instead of a picnic basket, I certainly would want a hot 10mm, .41 or even better a .44 magnum and a shotgun loaded with slugs. I wouldn't want to have a pud loaded .40 S&W.

Same thing goes if I'm going to use .357 or .44 magnum ammunition. I'm going to want to shoot hot magnum ammunition. It's pretty much common knowledge that the .40 S&W is a 10mm special. The advantage of the .40 S&W over the 10mm is that you can drop a .40 S&W barrel and use a .40 S&W magazine in a 9x19mm frame and it will work. This is how the S&W 4006 came about, it's just a 5906 chambered in .40 S&W.
I guess my simple project has attracted your attention to the point you really think I am trolling you when in fact you are the one out to troll.

But I digress now that we have established you know some about reloading and about the same when it comes to firearms.

I too just happen to reload and have reloaded easily over a million rounds between 380, 9mm, 38 special, 357 magnum, .40 S&W, 10mm, 44 Special, 44 Magnum, 45 ACP, .223 Rem, 6x45, 30-30, 308 Win, 30-06, 300WM, 12ga, 20ga just to name a few.
Mixed between a few different presses from Single stages, 550s, 750s, Super 1050 powered by a Mark 7.
Needless to say I dont shoot factory stuff often and as a matter of fact I could not recall the last time I purchased ammo that was 22lr.

I will take note of your experience in loading 12ga and with the right wad (or gas seals) and data you can load the same weight or count of shot in a shorter shell as the wad or stack often just takes up more space for a longer shell. I love me some good 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 shells for my 870 and Versa Max (shorter shells cycle it perfect).

As for the P320 in 10mm I personally like 10mm and have a few thousand cases for it and it also so happens that the P320 is one of if not my favorite gun. I also happen to like a good challenge.
As for shooting full power all the time even as a reloader that is just not realistic. However I will load and shoot 1250fps 180gr 10mm all day load which is no slouch of a load however is still not "nuclear" (625 ft/lb)
I also load and shoot 1150fps 180gr .40 S&W which is close to a max load but still within safe data (32,000 PSI max 35K) I tell you what that .40 S&W load would (529 ft/lb)

I also load some HOT 357 magnum 158gr to 1600fps (890~ftlb) and 125gr to 1900fps (1000~ ftlb) and I tell you what you don't want to shoot those all day long but its still worth loading some for the woods. This isn't even getting into big bore stuff. Which 10mm is not going to compare to....

The closest load that 10mm has that would compare to 357 magnum would be the 155gr bullet loaded to 1400fps which is still only 675ftlb.

Now based off this logic of mine it would seem that you may have been incorrect again as shooting full power or for better argument close to nuclear boutique reloads from underwood, buffalo bore etc. as you should take a look at their 40 S&W offerings and see that those are much hotter than most off the shelf 10mm loads out there.
While I dont dispute that 40 S&W is loaded lighter than 10mm it by no means is a slouch when you compare it to similar offerings.

"The advantage of the .40 S&W over the 10mm is that you can drop a .40 S&W barrel and use a .40 S&W magazine in a 9x19mm frame and it will work. This is how the S&W 4006 came about, it's just a 5906 chambered in .40 S&W."

Not to insult your intelligence/ with all due respect, but this is not a completely correct statement and dont try this kids it will NOT WORK.
You would need a complete .40 S&W slide not just barrel the 40 breech face and barrel diameter is not the same as 9mm and if you just put the barrel in it will get stuck.

I am sure I missed something but I have no doubt you will let me know.
 

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I guess my simple project has attracted your attention to the point you really think I am trolling you when in fact you are the one out to troll.
My take on it is that if you can't get full power 10mm out of it then why bother? That's the entire point of my argument on the futility of this project.

"The advantage of the .40 S&W over the 10mm is that you can drop a .40 S&W barrel and use a .40 S&W magazine in a 9x19mm frame and it will work. This is how the S&W 4006 came about, it's just a 5906 chambered in .40 S&W."
Not to insult your intelligence/ with all due respect, but this is not a completely correct statement and dont try this kids it will NOT WORK.
You would need a complete .40 S&W slide not just barrel the 40 breech face and barrel diameter is not the same as 9mm and if you just put the barrel in it will get stuck.
Excuse me for omitting the phrase "barrel and slide assembly." Of course you're going to need a different barrel and slide assembly because you're going to have a wider barrel bushing. However, the receiver for 9x19mm and .40 S&W are the same. The S&W Shorty Forty is just a Performance Center 6906 with a .40 S&W magazine and a .40 S&W slide and barrel assembly. The pressure of 9x19mm and .40 S&W are identical at 35K PSI. 10mm has a maximum pressure of 37.5K PSI. If you can't put 37.5K PSI rounds through your 10mm project then again, what's the point?

You're shooting .40 S&W rounds (Fedlite) loads through a 10mm case. Pud loading the 10mm does not make a firearm 10mm; shooting full power 10mm makes a firearm 10mm. You don't need to be a scientific law student of Avogadro, Boyle, Charles or a rocket scientist to get this. The point of 10mm is to be able to utilize the hotter rounds through it, if you can't which I doubt the P250/P320 FCU can handle as we've see with FCU cracking with .357 SIG then why bother? You know it's not going to work. Can you shoot full power 10mm through your project? No, you can't. It's vaporware and if you attempt to shoot full power 10mm through it your hand(s) may very well become vaporware when it explodes. If you can't shoot full power 10mm through a 10mm conversion then it's garbage. So you reamed a barrel to handle a longer 10mm case. To quote Biden, BFD. When you can put full power 10mm through your project consistently and reliably then it's viable.

You basically put a trailer hitch on a Yugo.


.40 S&W is cheaper than 10mm and more abundant. That was the big selling point of the .40 S&W, it can be built on a 9x19mm frame or receiver. Same maximum pressure. We all know from the SIG X-Change Kits that a 9x19mm frame will handle .40 S&W and allegedly .357 SIG. What's an X-C Kit? A replacement magazine, barrel and slide assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
My take on it is that if you can't get full power 10mm out of it then why bother? That's the entire point of my argument on the futility of this project.


Excuse me for omitting the phrase "barrel and slide assembly." Of course you're going to need a different barrel and slide assembly because you're going to have a wider barrel bushing. However, the receiver for 9x19mm and .40 S&W are the same. The S&W Shorty Forty is just a Performance Center 6906 with a .40 S&W magazine and a .40 S&W slide and barrel assembly. The pressure of 9x19mm and .40 S&W are identical at 35K PSI. 10mm has a maximum pressure of 37.5K PSI. If you can't put 37.5K PSI rounds through your 10mm project then again, what's the point?

You're shooting .40 S&W rounds (Fedlite) loads through a 10mm case. Pud loading the 10mm does not make a firearm 10mm; shooting full power 10mm makes a firearm 10mm. You don't need to be a scientific law student of Avogadro, Boyle, Charles or a rocket scientist to get this. The point of 10mm is to be able to utilize the hotter rounds through it, if you can't which I doubt the P250/P320 FCU can handle as we've see with FCU cracking with .357 SIG then why bother? You know it's not going to work. Can you shoot full power 10mm through your project? No, you can't. It's vaporware and if you attempt to shoot full power 10mm through it your hand(s) may very well become vaporware when it explodes. If you can't shoot full power 10mm through a 10mm conversion then it's garbage. So you reamed a barrel to handle a longer 10mm case. To quote Biden, BFD. When you can put full power 10mm through your project consistently and reliably then it's viable.

You basically put a trailer hitch on a Yugo.


.40 S&W is cheaper than 10mm and more abundant. That was the big selling point of the .40 S&W, it can be built on a 9x19mm frame or receiver. Same maximum pressure. We all know from the SIG X-Change Kits that a 9x19mm frame will handle .40 S&W and allegedly .357 SIG. What's an X-C Kit? A replacement magazine, barrel and slide assembly.
Considering I have thousands of rounds through my P320 357 SIG in Sub compact, Compact and full-size between 2 or 3 FCU's without a single problem. These are also handloaded hot 357sig loads loaded at about 1450FPS which is around 38K PSI 357 sig tops out at 40k psi.
While I dont doubt that some people have had cracked FCUs just like a Cummins can throw a rod before it hits 50k it is still pretty rare. These cracked FCU's that you speak of also have happened with other calibers. With my experience in manufacturing it is possible that different lots of material yield different strengths as well as weaknesses and or flaws. I have seen different materials straight from the mills that yield different results when tested. However if this was a wide spread problem I am pretty sure it would be more prevalent than a couple here and there on the internet. Look at the P365 for comparison they had a few issues with the first batches and have rolled out many different changes to date which are well documented.
Another thing to note is the recommended maintenance or spring replacement is rarely done by the average shooter which I believe recoil springs are recommended to be replaced ever 2000 rounds or less if shooting +p or hotter ammo. So there would be another thing to consider if say a 357 sig gun fed full power ammo and the springs were not regularly changed it would beat itself up which would probably cause a crack over time.
In the 10mm world there have been quite a few guns that themselves have been known to fail from other reputable companies (colt delta elite).
I will be diligent to change springs at regular intervals as I know springs will get weak quick.


Say tuned as I will continue to fire full power 10mm through My P320 conversion and if it does fail I will let you know, and you are more than welcome to laugh, and give me more of your constructive input at that time.

As for putting a trailer hitch on a yugo why not? You can put a trailer hitch on anything, its just how much can it tow is the real question. There is a max then there is a safe max. What you show there would be like putting a 44mag or 50AE round on a 45...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Shot a few hundred 180gr 1250FPS this weekend with a 22lb Wilson combat 1911 spring and I think that is the sweet spot.

Ill be taking a couple weeks off soon and will be hitting the range more to shoot this as well as my new 627 V-comp as I have some nice fireballs loaded.
 

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I’m a use the .45 for everything kinda guy too. Curious where you got the barrel work done; also any pics or descriptions of the .45 mag changes you made for the 10mm?
 

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I’m a use the .45 for everything kinda guy too. Curious where you got the barrel work done; also any pics or descriptions of the .45 mag changes you made for the 10mm?
I had a local smith ream the barrel to 10mm. Any competent smith should be able to do it.
As for the .45 mag changes Ill get some measurements of the feed lips and the follower.
 
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