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Hello All. I am having an issue with a Lantac Dragon Muzzle Brake i picked up for my Sig 516. When i put it on with the crush washer supplied and only hand tighten it, the top ports of the brake go a little past the top of the barrel. Theres no way of tightening it another complete revolution. Is this a common problem? Am i suppose to find shims? Any input on this would be great. Thank you
 

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Crush washers are designed to "crush" so if you have a wrench, you can tighten it down until the ports are correctly aligned. Nearly all muzzle devices will hand tighten close to what you described. That last half turn- full turn is supposed to be with a wrench in order for it to build tension so that it stays on. The washer will "give" and crush well before any amount of torque needed to damage a barrel. Crush washers are a one time use thing. If you go too far you'll have to get a new one.
 

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What about muzzle brakes without any sort of flats to use a wrench on? How do you turn those? I have one that needs about 20 more degrees to clock correctly, was going to just turn it by hand. This is an SJC Titan btw.

Also, OP...don't use a crush washer or peel washers. Get the accu-washer shim kit from Precision Armament. Best kit out there. You'll have the brake on in minutes assuming you have a section that allows use of a wrench. Make sure to buy some loctite 272.
 

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The SJC Titan's bottom and top are flat... There's a lot of flat surface to wrench on.



Or you could clamp the brake in a vice on the flat top and bottom and use the rifle to do the last 20 degrees. I'd wrap it in duct tape to protect the finish either way.
 

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What about muzzle brakes without any sort of flats to use a wrench on? How do you turn those? I have one that needs about 20 more degrees to clock correctly, was going to just turn it by hand. This is an SJC Titan btw.
I would use a strap wrench like this:
 
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