[Ape Factory]

The brown truck delivered this today. 275 day wait.

Should be fun. Full config on top, 5-baffle on bottom which is likely how I'll run it most of the time based on user reviews. Sig includes two different boosters along with a spacer (for non-boosted apps) and two wrenches. The booster/base portion is by far the heaviest part of the suppressor. The rest is 3D additive manufacturing titanium and weighs nothing.

Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but it's not going to outrageously upset the balance as it's one of the lighter full-sized 9mm suppressors out there. While I'll run it with the M18 a bit, I have an LTT Elite with a non-Browning action that may allow me to forego the booster spring.

Assuming the base is non-universal and this'll only work with Sig's mount (I mean it's Sig). Anyone have one of these? Are you running any anti-seize on the threading?

Instructions for my titanium 22LR suppressor says to do so but it's raw titanium. Not sure if thread seizing is as much an issue with centerfire pistol cans?

 

[mrerick]

i am not using anti-sieze on the threading, but I am using a high temp moly lubricant on the nelson device (which you refer to as a "booster"). The two threaded nelson device cores are for left hand and right hand threaded barrels, and are marked with the thread pitch. There should be two springs and a spacer that fit over them.

You'll now be hearing the mechanical noise of your pistol as much as the report of the cartridge itself... I find the uniform wound spring works best with my P320.

 

[Ape Factory]

Yep, have two pistons. The second one, which wasn't inserted into the suppressor, looks like the ID is physically larger and the manual lists the threading as 13.5x1. Just looking at it, I thought maybe it was 5/8-24 but I guess not!

So no issue removing baffles then? And thanks for the tip on the spring and moly lube, appreciated!

 

[TacoJoe]

I have one on my MPX. I use a little high temp anti-seize grease on all the threads. This makes disassembly much easier.

 

[TacoJoe]

Congrats by the way! Have fun with it.

 

[Ape Factory]

Thank you TJ!

 

[michaell2019]

I'm on day 200 for my modx-9. Sig says the modx-9 will run fine on all their 9mm handguns and the mpx-k. I haven't tried it on my handguns but Sig was right on the MPX-K. Direct thread on and it maintains accuracy with all kinds of ammo. None of my other 9mm cans run this well on my MPX-K.

Let me know if you get any unburnt powder splashback. I have a R9 on my P320 but looks like the R9 is a high pressure can that has increased blowback. My P320 runs fine with the R9 which is heavier than the modx-9, just had to switch to the Armory Craft 13lb recoil spring.

 

[Gilly19]

My MODX-9 is still in jail (maybe 6 months in?) and I'm currently running an Omega 9K on my MPX-K SBR. Once I get the MODX-9, it will be 100% dedicated to the MPX-K (and Copperhead K and MPX Carbine).

Yes, I do use anti-seize lube on all of my threads. It's easier to check that things are tight while you're shooting than to struggle with unscrewing a seized-up can.

Mine will look a lot like TacoJoe's above but I'm going to use a 10" Lancer carbon fiber handguard to cover it a little more.

 

[Ape Factory]

Let me know if you get any unburnt powder splashback. I have a R9 on my P320 but looks like the R9 is a high pressure can that has increased blowback. My P320 runs fine with the R9 which is heavier than the modx-9, just had to switch to the Armory Craft 13lb recoil spring.

Will do, I'm hoping to hit the range on Monday.

 

[michaell2019]

Will do, I'm hoping to hit the range on Monday.

Cool. Take some 147gr or 150gr. I mixed a mag with 147gr and 115gr and big difference in sound.
Also clean, degrease, lube the piston and spring on the modx-9. My R9 has to be cleaned and lubed to run well on my P320.

 

[Ape Factory]

I do have a box of subs to try. I have a 22LR can and you can definitely hear the difference when shooting supersonic and they're inconsistent, some being supers, some subs, and the sonic crack can often be heard downrange which is interesting (indoor range). Have a HUXWRX HD-762Ti for the rifles and same thing, I'll load subs/supers in the same mag with 300 blackout. Dramatic difference!

I did already prep it, lubed the spring/piston as well as the threads on each baffle. The moly lube I have is good for over 700F.

 

[Ape Factory]

Anyone using CLR and an ultrasonic cleaner on the ModX-9? I know it's titanium safe as Energetic Arms tested it and found zero issues. I've cleaned my EA silencer twice now. Fifteen minutes and it comes out spotless. I'm cleaning it after each trip to the range as 22LR is so damn dirty.

One caveat, don't use CLR directly in your ultrasonic cleaner's tank. Instead, take a zip lock bag, fill it with enough CLR, drop in components, squeeze air out, seal it. Use water in the tank. Just as effective and you won't damage the tank with CLR. But...curious if CLR will damage the cerakote.

This is the Energetic Arms after 15 minutes of tank time.

 

[TacoJoe]

Anyone using CLR and an ultrasonic cleaner on the ModX-9? I know it's titanium safe as Energetic Arms tested it and found zero issues. I've cleaned my EA silencer twice now. Fifteen minutes and it comes out spotless. I'm cleaning it after each trip to the range as 22LR is so damn dirty.

One caveat, don't use CLR directly in your ultrasonic cleaner's tank. Instead, take a zip lock bag, fill it with enough CLR, drop in components, squeeze air out, seal it. Use water in the tank. Just as effective and you won't damage the tank with CLR. But...curious if CLR will damage the cerakote.

This is the Energetic Arms after 15 minutes of tank time.

That’s amazing. I’m gonna have to try that. Do you use it straight up in the ziplock or do you water it down ?

 

[Ape Factory]

Straight up undiluted inside the ziplock. Initially I used M-Pro 7 cleaner in the tank but it takes A LOT to fill the tank and while it works with the HUXWRX as you shoot it out with the pressure doing the rest, It's very mild and takes a long time to clean a 22LR suppressor with the M-Pro.

So using a smaller plastic bag, one big enough for the parts, saves you substantially in the amount of fluid you need. Keep the time short at 15 minutes and DO wear gloves when handling. Lead is obviously poisonous and suspended in fluid, can more easily enter the body.

This doesn't work with aluminum suppressors as the ultrasound itself can pit aluminum. So has to be titanium. No idea on stainless but CLR will damage the stainless tank in the ultrasonic cleaner if left in there for long enough.

 

[TacoJoe]

Straight up undiluted inside the ziplock. Initially I used M-Pro 7 cleaner in the tank but it takes A LOT to fill the tank and while it works with the HUXWRX as you shoot it out with the pressure doing the rest, It's very mild and takes a long time to clean a 22LR suppressor with the M-Pro.

So using a smaller plastic bag, one big enough for the parts, saves you substantially in the amount of fluid you need. Keep the time short at 15 minutes and DO wear gloves when handling. Lead is obviously poisonous and suspended in fluid, can more easily enter the body.

This doesn't work with aluminum suppressors as the ultrasound itself can pit aluminum. So has to be titanium. No idea on stainless but CLR will damage the stainless tank in the ultrasonic cleaner if left in there for long enough.

Thanks man.

 

[cremaley]

I'm sure it was worth the wait.

 

[jkallner]

The brown truck delivered this today. 275 day wait.

Should be fun. Full config on top, 5-baffle on bottom which is likely how I'll run it most of the time based on user reviews. Sig includes two different boosters along with a spacer (for non-boosted apps) and two wrenches. The booster/base portion is by far the heaviest part of the suppressor. The rest is 3D additive manufacturing titanium and weighs nothing.

Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but it's not going to outrageously upset the balance as it's one of the lighter full-sized 9mm suppressors out there. While I'll run it with the M18 a bit, I have an LTT Elite with a non-Browning action that may allow me to forego the booster spring.

Assuming the base is non-universal and this'll only work with Sig's mount (I mean it's Sig). Anyone have one of these? Are you running any anti-seize on the threading?

Instructions for my titanium 22LR suppressor says to do so but it's raw titanium. Not sure if thread seizing is as much an issue with centerfire pistol cans?

Oh, baby! That is sweet! Have fun!

 

[Ape Factory]

I managed to make it to the range today and brought the Sig and the LTT. I went with mrerick's suggestion and ran the straight linear spring with the M18. Worked flawlessly and cycled with subs and supers. I didn't notice any debris hitting my face. I later shot the Energetic on the FN502 and was peppered with hot powder every few rounds. Stark contrast.

With the Beretta, I was able to run without the spring and just the solid spacer. It again cycled perfectly with both supers and subs. They're awesome suppressor hosts.

But I gotta say, it was great on the M18 too. I really didn't notice a lot of extra muzzle flip, just the opposite and I get back on target pretty naturally with the Sig. Accuracy seemed to improve with the suppressor on vs. off but I may need to clean the barrel, it's been a bit.

I ran four baffles and the cap as well as the full configuration. I could hear a difference but four definitely takes the edge off. Nice deep tone with subs and it's almost two inches shorter. Still, in house, I'll run the full configuration. Very pleased with it overall. I do feel like the Nielson device and rear housing could be lighter. They should have made the piston and housing out of titanium as well.