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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

Some time ago I was looking for a reasonably priced P6 barrel. They are hard to find, but P226 barrels are much easier to obtain - I bought mine for about $100 including shipping.
Converting one to fit p6 turned out to be an easy project, if you have a mill (small one like mini-mill will do just fine). So I thought I share details if someone here wants to do the same

You will need:
1) Good caliper
2) Mill and tooling
3) an hour or so of your time

First pic, here are how 3 barrels look like: an original p226, another one modified to fit p6, and an original P6 (the last one was rendered useless - bore is plugged and bottom of the barrel is milled out, so it was only good to take reference measurements)


P6 barrels copies hood dimentions from P228, however lower lug and feed ramp configuration is identical to p226 - this is why P226 barrel is the best donor for this project.
Here is list of all the modifications you need to make:


First, trim the top/front of the barrel hood, to make it fit to p6 slide opening. The opening length is about 1.195"; hood size on factory barrel reads about 1.191" - you may want to go up to 1.194" for a tighter fit.
Theoretically, that might be all needed to function - however there will be a couple of problems: the guide rod will be sticking out of the slide a bit, and the slide won't go all the way forward as on original barrel - the back of it will be hanging a bit off the frame.
To fix that, two more modifications will be required - you need to deepen the recess that pushes against back of the guide rod for about 0.072" - that will put guide rod in proper position relative to the slide, and second, trim the front of the lug backward about the same distance - you will however most likely trim it holding that lug surface horizontally (the muzzle will be pointing top-right or top-left under angle); so you need to trim less to achieve same results - about 0.050".
These two dimensions are not very critical - if you are off few thousands, it will only affect where guide rod and slide will stop - should not affect functioning or accuracy of the gun

Here is how result will look like

Note the radius in the guide rod recess (right barrel on the picture). It is important to have it - this is a high stress area, and if you simply run square end mill trimming it without having that radius, the stress may shear the lug off after some shooting.
To create such a radius, either use small ball end mill to trim the recess back, or trim by the side of a small diameter end mill holding the lug pointing horizontally (I used 3/32" carbide end mill for that cut). Advance by very little and you may use "drilling" mill movement to minimize side force to the end mill (those tiny ones break very easily)

Once this is done, you will have to decide what to do with extra 0.6" of the barrel hanging off the slide.
I decided to thread it for now.. can always cut it off later if I don't like it :)
I made 1/2x28TPI threads - although 13.5mmx1LH would be a proper choice for Sig, my lathe can't do metric threads


Finished product:


I run a box of ammo through it - zero malfunctions, as one would expect from a Sig.

So, a perfectly functioning threaded P6 barrel, for $100 (plus a bit of my time) - not a bad deal these days :)
 

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If you could find a sig full size bbl that would match or fit the requirements for making the mods/milling the correct specs for making a full size 9mm p320 threaded bbl you would make a mint!

Nice job on the p6!
 

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Hi, sorry to bring back an old thread.

I don't have many power tools at home. Can this be done with a drill press and an end mill?
Welcome to Sig Talk, from the southwest corner of Indiana.

No, a drill press not "precise" enough to "thread", and if you are talking about chucking up an end mill into the drill press, I'd say no, for the same reason. Mills require different speeds, and feed rates, in addition to a "coolant" flow to take away heat, and lubricate the mills cutters, otherwise they will dull quickly, and shear instead of cut. Drill presses are designed for "plunging" cuts, mills are designed for both horizontal and vertical machining.

If you need a P6 barrel, the cheapest was would be to get an EFK barrel, unless you already have a useless P226 barrel, and the required machinery already.
 

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Welcome to Sig Talk, from the southwest corner of Indiana.

No, a drill press not "precise" enough to "thread", and if you are talking about chucking up an end mill into the drill press, I'd say no, for the same reason. Mills require different speeds, and feed rates, in addition to a "coolant" flow to take away heat, and lubricate the mills cutters, otherwise they will dull quickly, and shear instead of cut. Drill presses are designed for "plunging" cuts, mills are designed for both horizontal and vertical machining.

If you need a P6 barrel, the cheapest was would be to get an EFK barrel, unless you already have a useless P226 barrel, and the required machinery already.
Thanks for the reply.

I don't have a barrel for the 226 laying around but can get one for $125.

I've seen the the EFK barrel but they are out of stock. They say that you can backorder it and they have up to 90 days to ship it.

The thing I don't like about it is that they will charge you now for something that they don't have and may not have it for 90 days.

They want $157 for theirs so I was hoping to convert a 226 barrel for close to the same.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk
 

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Drill presses are really only good for drilling holes.
And flinging parts across the workshop and under an immovable cabinet.

At least in my experience. Everyone, right? Right?
 

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Well right now I've reached out to another barrel manufacturer known to make these barrels. They are checking under the rugs and in dark corners of the warehouse for one. They'll let me know if they find one.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk
 
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