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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have been thinking of using froglube on my p226. My 226 is brand new with nitron finish. Is this safe on the finish? I had hoppes elite dull my finish so much in one light use now my slide looks light gray. When i oil the slide and it's wet the finish looks fine but when the oil wipes off it looks horrible again. Thus the frog lube i hear it stays on your gun much like wax and it may bring that luster back to the metal.

What should I get the frog lube paste or liquid? What stays on better?

Lastly I can not caution everyone enough. Hoppes Elite is horrible do not use it on your guns as it may take the finish off especially nitron finish.

What happened was there was a little elite and oil on a rag from cleaning the barrel and after i reassembled the gun i wiped it down with this rag and the finish wiped off. Sounds crazy but that's what happened.
 

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I've used gallons of Hoppes Elite and never had a problem. I would be contacting Sig if that were my gun.

As for Frog Lube, I'm not crazy about it. I use TW25 on my alloy framed guns.
 

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Wow. That stinks. Sorry that happened.

I use TW25b on sliding parts, oil on rotating parts, and I wipe down the exterior with Ballistol.
 

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...I can not caution everyone enough. Hoppes Elite is horrible do not use it on your guns as it may take the finish off especially nitron finish.
I assume you are referring to Elite Gun Cleaner, and not Elite Gun Oil.

It seems to me that it did exactly what it's supposed to do: "Elite Gun Cleaner not only penetrates down to the steel's molecular pores while cleaning carbon, copper and lead fouling, but it also conditions the metal to repel future fouling."

It's marketed as a bore cleaner, not an exterior finish treatment.
 

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I assume you are referring to Elite Gun Cleaner, and not Elite Gun Oil.

It seems to me that it did exactly what it's supposed to do: "Elite Gun Cleaner not only penetrates down to the steel's molecular pores while cleaning carbon, copper and lead fouling, but it also conditions the metal to repel future fouling."

It's marketed as a bore cleaner, not an exterior finish treatment.
+1

I have wiped my Sig slides clean with Hoppe's before to clean them and they always turn grey from the lack of oil, a quick wipedown with a Remoil cloth and they look good as new.

I have even used brake cleaner before and the Nitron finish holds up to that.

I don't think that the Hoppe's removed your finish, just the oil. I have heard of people using Johnson's Wax but I don't want to experiment with my Sigs.
 

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"Elite Gun Cleaner not only penetrates down to the steel's molecular pores while cleaning carbon, copper and lead fouling, but it also conditions the metal to repel future fouling."
I wonder what on earth that means.

I really hate it when manufacturers start farting snake oil.

Reppels water on molecular level.
Reminds me of that post.
 

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I have wiped my Sig slides clean with Hoppe's before to clean them and they always turn grey from the lack of oil, a quick wipedown with a Remoil cloth and they look good as new.

I have even used brake cleaner before and the Nitron finish holds up to that.

I don't think that the Hoppe's removed your finish, just the oil.
I agree 100%.....the OP did not hurt his finish......
My P220 Compact would get gull grey in color after cleaning, but hit it up with some gun rag or grease or oil......Good as new!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hope your right

I hope you guys are right. I oiled the hell out of it with rem oil and it still looked gray after the oil ran off. But where I had the slip 2000 on the slide rails the slide looks ok. I just coated the whole slide in slip 2000 and it's soaking in tomorrow i will let you guys know how it looks. Thanks for the feed back.
 

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I don't use Hoppes on the outside of my pistol. I use it for barrel and wiping of the internals(Firing pin channel, etc...... I just use M-Pro 7 LPX oil to clean after the Hoppes and M-Pro 7 gun cleaner. TW25B for the rails.
 

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I seriously doubt the finish of the OP's SIG is damaged.

First of all, the Nitron finish is a dark gray when dry to begin with. Oiling it will make it appear darker. Many gun cleaners (such as Gun Scrubber and brake parts cleaners) are also degreasers and will remove the surface oil along with the powder residue and crud. After doing this, the metal will look a dull light gray. It does not damage the finish. Just wipe with an oily rag and it will darken. Afterwards, you can wipe it with a dry rag until it is completely dry and it will again appear normal dark gray.

"...penetrates down to the steel's molecular pores..." is marketing-speak. Nobody knows what it means. ;-)
 

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I know a few shops in my area that swear by Frog Lube. All I can say is that it tends to get "gummy" on cerakoted surfaces.
 

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I have a couple of S&W Airweight J Frame revolvers and the finish on these is quite delicate. S&W has recommended the use of the Hoppe's Elite Cleaner to clean these surfaces and I have seen no degradation of the finish on these because of the Elite Cleaner.

I've never used Frog Lube, but gave the successor, Seal1, an honest try. I did the full treatment on a few handguns, which included a complete clean of the gun to remove any old lubricant, followed by a coat of Seal1 over the entire gun, baking in the oven at 180 deg, and repeating this coating/heating cycle three times. I will say, the guns were a lot easier to clean after this treatment, the carbon build up wiped off with only a paper towel. However, I took one of the handguns, a Glock 19 Gen 3, to a weekend handgun training session and had the only mechanical failure ever experienced with this handgun that weekend, two failures to feed. I was using a Fiocchi FMJ round, which had cycled successfully 2,000 rounds prior to this failure, along with a few thousand rounds of various ammo. Unfortunately, the rounds that would not feed were not recovered for analysis, they were lost in the soil that weekend, ground in by a couple dozen students. That incident was enough for me. I know there are many that swear by the product, I'm OK with that. Just not for me. YMMV.
 

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I've used it on my glocks, it makes clean up a snap if applied correctly. And by correctly I mean disassemble the pistol heat the gun parts up and then apply the frog lube. That's the key step that a lot of guys forget.

I have not gotten around to using it on my sigs. I guess I could but I just haven't. Something about applying grease to my sigs just makes me feel better.
 

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All "penetrates down to the molecular pores of the metal" means is that the oil is light enough for SOME of it to actually fill in some of the pores. Water does the same thing. Lol
 

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In my experience, Froglube is the best. Downright incredible. I use nothing but Froglube on all my guns. It performs exactly as advertised. I can't rave enough about it. Seal1 and FireClean are Froglube-like alternatives which, from what I've heard, work just as well. I'm partial to Froglube because like I said, it performs incredibly and I love its smell. If you haven't tried it yet, I recommend it. Just make sure you follow the instructions and enjoy the unbelievable results.
 

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The only failures i've had with my Walther ppk and my p229 Scorpion was after i treated them with FL paste. i followed the directions as have been explained previously, but even though i thought i had all the excess off it gummed things up at the range. i've since cleaned them free of FL and am using Viking Tactics, it's a non toxic, pretty much odor free CLP that works great. i still am using FL liquid (gotta get rid of it somehow) on my classic p229R and the exchange kits and it works fine also. My Sig armorer told me he'd seen a lot of FL problems (waxy buildup), especially if the gun sits for a month, so i'd stay away from the paste. i'm sure i was just putting too much of it on, that's the thing to avoid.
 

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MK25 with 2500 rounds and nothing but frog lube. All good and no stress dings in slide or rails. Wipe off but it will reappear when gun heats up shooting. Have also applied to old 16g double barrel shotgun. Snapping and clicking like a new gun.
 
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