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I bought a 320c in .45 and shoot it very well -- 1 1/2 inch groups rapid fire off hand at 15 yards. Feels great in my hand. Anyway, I'd been having failure to feed issues with it. It would happen with a variety of factory ammo and any mag, but the odd thing was that it would only happen in the first couple of mags fired, after which the pistol would run perfectly. (It was as if the pistol had to get hot to function right.)

I'd been cleaning and lubing it with Seal1 CLP. (I was manning a table for our club at a recent gun show and the Seal1 guys were beside us -- sold me a bottle.) I used it on my FNSc in 9mm and thought it was great. So I used it on the P320c as well.

But thinking about the heat issue, I scrubbed the 320 down and got rid of the Seal1 and then used a regular petro-based lube. (The Seal1 is bio-based.)

And voila! the pistol ran perfectly this morning through 200 rounds. I'm a happy camper, even though I'm still not sure what the issue was with the Seal1.
 

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I use clp to clean and lube with grease on sliding parts. I use a nylon brush to clean down whole gun. Brass brush on inside of barrel. Wipe with patches to get residue, use a nylon pick to get to hard to reach places. Then just put the grease on the sliding parts without actually taking all the clp lube off. (Don't use anything to remove CLP) Have been using breakfree clp and slip 2000 grease. I have had no problems with my guns using this method. There are many other brands of oils and grease out there. Many have had the same results with what they are using. Some not.
 

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Not sure what the draw is to the bio based lubes , they seem to cause problems at some point . I use a very fine line of synthetic grease to mix in with some 0w30 full synthetic oil for many years on slides , grease on the lugs and barrel bushing area, heavy load areas . Some labeled as firearm products over the years but finally moved back to the automotive line of lubes and greases and break it down to smaller containers for family members . A general CLP of keep metal work clean and protected has been G96 clp for a some years as breakfree clp is not the same as it once was .
 

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I've had my used 320 for almost a month now and put 600 rounds thru it, and the previous owner only put a little over 100 thru it, and its not been cleaned since first out of the box...not missed a beat with any of a half dozen different kinds of ammo thru it. I know cleaning it is important, and I plan to go thru it this weekend, but I like to know a gun will fire well even when dirty. But, I am glad you posted this info because I know what to look for if it has issues afterwards.
 

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I use Ballistol on all my pistols. Zero issues, and its not giving me cancer. I'm going to start using the non-aerosol as well once my aerosol can runs out, I tend to waste more in the aerosol I think.
 

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I'm currently using Breakthrough solvent followed by Ballistol for initial cleaning. After that it's Lucas extreme duty oil along with their grease for the metal on metal parts. So far the gun feels very slick.
 

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Not sure what the draw is to the bio based lubes , they seem to cause problems at some point . I use a very fine line of synthetic grease to mix in with some 0w30 full synthetic oil for many years on slides , grease on the lugs and barrel bushing area, heavy load areas . Some labeled as firearm products over the years but finally moved back to the automotive line of lubes and greases and break it down to smaller containers for family members . A general CLP of keep metal work clean and protected has been G96 clp for a some years as breakfree clp is not the same as it once was .
the BIO ones I've seen if run wet like so many do .. it tends to gum up over time as it dries out verses petroleum based products .. that's just my experience with some of them .. your experience many differ !!
 
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