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Have a question : 238 safety on a 938

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Last night I replaced the ambi safety on my 938 with a 238 safety, the whole process went well.

However I find that it is UBER tight even before the hammer spring is in. I sanded the cross bar down a little and it helped. But it is still quite tight to engage / disengage.

Question to those who have done this mod - did you need to work the 238 safety to fit a 938?

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thnkfrst - i sanded The outer surface of the 'cross bar', which has a cut out like a half cylinder. Photo below is taken on the 938 safety, just to show the area.

Initially sanding did help, but I prefer less tight or similar to what it was with the 938 safety.

 

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I just had this done and...

Good day everyone. I just had a gunsmith change out my 938 safety for a 238 one. For those of you who have done this, I have a question. Is the 238 safety considerably stiffer? Specifically, the problem is when I try to turn the safety on with one in the chamber. It's so tight I have to ease the hammer all the way back with one hand and then engage the safety with the other. No problem swiping it off or engaging without a round, just when one is chambered. Should this loosen up, or am I taking it back to the smith. Thanks for your time.
 

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This seems like a proper place to pose my silly question.

On my counter right now is my P938 (love it) and the new P238 ESP (I shot 100 assorted to test function...flawless and I am lovin' it too) that will go to my daughter in law. I really am ambivalent about the ambi safety on the P938. My DIL however is a switch hitter and the P238 is left side only.

I noticed above that there was little mention of swapping out trigger pins when swapping safeties. I am guessing if the P238 fits the P938 it follows that the P938 will work in the P238. Rather than reinvent the wheel I ask for opinions here. Seems to me I have all the parts sitting on the counter. Yes, I did think about grips. Not sure what I thought, but I did, I think.
 

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I am guessing if the P238 fits the P938 it follows that the P938 will work in the P238. Rather than reinvent the wheel I ask for opinions here. Seems to me I have all the parts sitting on the counter. Yes, I did think about grips. Not sure what I thought, but I did, I think.
I have both the P938 and P238. The safeties are interchangeable with no issues other than the grips.
 

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Good day everyone. I just had a gunsmith change out my 938 safety for a 238 one. For those of you who have done this, I have a question. Is the 238 safety considerably stiffer? Specifically, the problem is when I try to turn the safety on with one in the chamber. It's so tight I have to ease the hammer all the way back with one hand and then engage the safety with the other. No problem swiping it off or engaging without a round, just when one is chambered. Should this loosen up, or am I taking it back to the smith. Thanks for your time.
I did not experience any kind of tightness when I had the 238 safety installed on my 938. I'd take it back to the smith and have him make it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Taper41 --it will loosen up, my does. Like yours, flipping it off is not an issue, flipping it on still relatively tighter than the original ambi, but definitely easier than initially installed.
 

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I have both the P938 and P238. The safeties are interchangeable with no issues other than the grips.
I just did the swap last night between the P238 and P938. No worries at all. I mentioned above that there wasn't any discussion on the hammer pin needing to be swapped as well. You must swap hammer pins at the same time, the hammer pins fit fine but the right side end is different. The ambi hammer pin has a grove near its right side end. This grove engages the right side safety....otherwise nothing is holding the safety on. So, if you do not have both models then be sure to the P238 hammer pin to replace the P938 hammer pin.

On the grip...naturally the P238 right side grip will need to be cut to accommodate the added safety. In my case I had a P938 sitting there so I simply transferred the cutout with marker to the pink pearl, pulled out the Dremel with 3/8 fine sanding barrel and finished with buffing wheel and polish...on LOW rpm, checked progress several times. The rubber grips called for a razor cut followed by fine sanding disc. The now non ambi right grip on P938 looks fine as is to me. The P238 grips look like they were born that way.

Not for everyone for every reason. In my case it works out great
 

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As an afterthought on swapping the ambi safety of the P 938 onto the P 238:

You will have the parts in your hand and it is well worth the minimal time to smooth the detents on the left side safeties, the shafts of both safeties. On the right side smooth the end of the trigger pin where it engages the right side safety lever as well as the channel on the right side safety. In my case the engagement/disengagement was at least as positive (easier to know when it happens too), required same "effort", but noticeably smoother. For the lack of a better term....precise.

Oh, while you are at it: slip the hammer out and run some fine polishing compound or jeweler's rouge over the sear sliding and engagement surfaces. Easy does it unless (unlike me) you know exactly what you are doing.

I am very pleased with getting my switch hitter daughter in law getting a purty p238 with an ambi safety. I feel a bit more secure without that right side safety.

Oh, wait again: my son had commented that neither safety had a "red dot" to indicate quickly if safety off. A little alcohol to clean up, some Testor's model paint and a toothpick, corrected that easily enough...three new red dots. Easy does it so the safeties miss the dots. I toyed with the idea of creating a small depression for the paint to sit in with a Dremel round rasp....I will if the dot is problematic.
 

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Follow up

After having the smith take another look at the problematic safety replacement, he found that the 238 one was a bit oversized when he installed it which was causing the issue. He adjusted the sizing, and that seems to have remedied the problem. Hope this helps anyone who may have similar issues, and thanks for the responses.
 

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Important!!!

The P238 / P938 safety *must* cam the hammer back slightly, lifting the hammer off the sear as the safety is engaged.

This camming action takes place at the bottom of the safety shaft as it engages the safety notch on the back side of the hammer.

Problem is, it's a MIM part, and unfortunately dimensions are not held tight enough that all the safeties work the same.

The fix to make the safety easier to engage is to file (not sand) a tiny bit of metal of the bottom of the safety shaft were it engages the hammer notch which is split at the back for the spur. You can slightly round the front edge of the flat that is made in filing. Grease this area when done.

Use caution and don't get too carried away making the safety easier to engage - the more metal that's removed the easier it gets :) Looking at the hammer from the side, when engaging the safety, it must still slightly "further cock" the hammer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Pleased to update that the safety is much easier to disengage with use. Engaging is still tight, but does not concern me as I only need to be able to disengage with ease.
 

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To be clear, in post #7 it looks to suggest removing material off the "flat" of the safety shaft. This is not where material should be removed, but rather at 90* to that flat on what would be the bottom of the shaft when installed in the gun with safety off. The length of the shaft does not need to be filed, only the center part that engages the hammer notch.

Go easy, only takes a bit. Insert and check several times as you adjust. The safety lever must cam the hammer back to take the hammer off the sear. You don't want that movement too small, or you will be replacing the safety later due to wear.
 
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