In all reality what you need to do is this (it's not trivial but methodically simple)...
Pick a progressive press. Yes there is a learning curve but buy factory ammo as you learn. I use Hornady LnL AP. I don't like Lee Turret (friend has one). Other choice is Dillon 550 or (gulp) 650XL pricier & a lot more complicated. Any others and good luck getting help especially locally.
Get 9mm dies & shell plate & ideally RCBS powder lockout die to freeze you up with squib or over-charge.
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-87540-L...d=1491936252&sr=8-1&keywords=rcbs+lockout+die
Pick a "powder" that is always available to make your life easier. I use Hodgdon Titegroup as local shop always has it (so does Cabellas when taking a drive).
Pick bullet heads. I use bayou bullets hi-tek coated for 9mm 124 or 147
Buy small pistol primers & a Primer flip tray.
Have 9mm brass cases. I don't tumble.
Have a digital scale. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have digital calipers. I use these:
6 in. Digital Caliper with SAE and Metric Fractional Readings
Crescent wrench you'll need and you'll want some basic tools. Also a place to dispose of bad ammo if you can't pull the bullet (not easy to pull apart always).
Case lube spray very handy spray in bag of cases & shake helps station 1 especially (spray occasionally in the dies).
From there with all the ingredients on hand you work up a load just use the mfg site for the amount of powder for the given bullet weight (3.7grains Titegroup for 124gr hi-tek coated at COL 28.8mm).
Then you setup the press itself and primer feed system and powder drop
Then you setup each die station (for me 1. deprime/size, 2. powder drop/expand, 3. lockout, 4. seating, 5. taper.
then you create a few dummy rounds to check COL and taper. Leave out the powder and primer. Make sure they feed the magazine & chamber. Then you load ~10-20 rounds at the safest minimal load formula and make sure they cycle the slide. Then you make more if all is OK.
Double-charges almost spill over but under/no charge creates squibs both of which are dangerous and can ruin a handgun. Any fail to eject should be considered a squib (drop mag, make safe, clear then chamber check with rod/flag).
YOU WILL SCREW UP A ROUND IDENDIFYING THE SCREW UP IS PARAMOUNT OF IMPORTANCE.
If you go with the LNL i can post exact part # for dies and parts needed like PTX. I've put together spreadsheets with info and considered posting a "getting started" blog for local club members who have difficulty getting started but time is a limiting factor. Few younger shooters around here reload for lack of time and "no interruption" work area (young kids).