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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy folks. Been interested in converting my P229 .40 (manufactured 2009, so pre-E2) to a 9mm, and I came across a GunBroker sale of a P228 9mm parts kit, including the slide and barrel. Here's the description of the sale:

German Sig Sauer P228 9mm Parts Kit. This parts kit contains every part needed on a P228 pistol except for the frame. It comes complete with all small parts, grips, slide, barrel, etc. These are perfect as a back-up for your existing P228, for general spare parts (as many of the parts are interchangeable with other P-Series models), for building a customized P228, or for converting your .40 S&W or .357 Sig P229 over to 9mm
It is my understanding that the P228 and P229 share many parts. Would an P228 upper so described fit onto a .40 cal P229 frame?

I don't see why it wouldn't... but I don't feel like shelling out a fist full of cash only to find out that it doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
How vital is the swap of the insert? I was hoping to just be able to swap freely between the two slide+barrel assemblies, add in a magazine change, and call it square.

Also, does the newer P229-1 insert fit an older frame, and will it work across both calibers? After a bit of reading, it appears that the P229-1 locking insert shares a part number with the P229 .40/.357 locking insert of yore. So, apparently, the newer P229-1 frames (a .40 frame, from what I understand) run that same insert on a 9mm.

At a certain point, a conversion barrel and the associated cost becomes a question, if that achieves the same with less parts swaps.
 

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I bought one of the kits too for my .40/357Sig P229 now it is a triple caliber or a Frankengun depending on how you look at it. You do have to swap the locking blocks back and forth but it isn't too much of a hassle. The finish on my slide shows quite a bit of wear. Thinking about maybe getting it cerakoted.
 

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The slide will get it done.
I much prefer Bar-sto conversion barrels, that I can simply switch out, even at the range as i do often.
The bonus with the Bar-stos is they are made as the match barrels are made. They are very accurate.

Either way you go, multi caliber gives a lot of versatility, and less carried into the range each time. As far as the insert goes, you will get used to switching it, and faster at it.
I am real into multi caliber
229-40/357/9mm Bar-sto (needed a 9mm recoil & use 40 magazines)
239-40/357/9mm Bar-sto before I found out standard works for 239/224 (40 spring & mags.)
220 ST-45/400 corbon (use a #22 spring for 400)
 

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How vital is the swap of the insert?
Yes, the locking insert needs to be swapped, but it is included with the parts kit. No additional expense involved and it is not a very difficult swap. Other than being very dirty, the parts kit I received was in very good mechanical condition. There was some holster wear on the slide and the barrel had smileys, but the parts were in great shape but required a good cleaning.
 

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How vital is the swap of the insert? I was hoping to just be able to swap freely between the two slide+barrel assemblies, add in a magazine change, and call it square.

Also, does the newer P229-1 insert fit an older frame, and will it work across both calibers? After a bit of reading, it appears that the P229-1 locking insert shares a part number with the P229 .40/.357 locking insert of yore. So, apparently, the newer P229-1 frames (a .40 frame, from what I understand) run that same insert on a 9mm.

At a certain point, a conversion barrel and the associated cost becomes a question, if that achieves the same with less parts swaps.

Since you have a .40 insert in your gun you actually don't have to swap it. Only if you were going from 9mm to .40. Since you are going the other way you can leave your insert in.

My parts kit came to me very clean and void of any lubricant. A quick wipe down, grease on the slide rails and it was good to go.

I have about 300 rounds of 9mm through the gun with the P228 slide on it.

I was surprised at how much the balance of the gun changed with the P228 slide on it.

Here is my thread over at Sigforum on the issue

http://*************/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/2700035263?r=7210035263#7210035263
 

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I disagree about keeping the .40 insert in the P229 frame for use with a P228 slide and barrel. The frames are the same, but P228 insert has some significant dimensional differences in the position of the feed ramp from the .40 version that could cause feed problems with the P228 chamber position. I understand that it may "work" to leave the .40 in, (my experience was different) but it's less than optimal. They are two distinctly different parts (and part numbers) for the P228 in 9mm and the .40. There must me a reason for that. Since the insert comes with the kit, I don't see why you wouldn't replace it as well. It's an easy job. Push on the back of the takedown lever while you continue to rotate it fully counter clockwise as you pull it our from the left side of the frame. Slide the insert up and out. Swap the slide catch lever spring to the new insert and slide the new insert back in the frame. You may have to rotate the trigger pivot pin a little if you got the alignment off so that the slot on the insert will catch the flat on the pivot pin. Once in the insert is in place, replace the takedown lever by starting it with the notch down to clear the "hump" on the slide catch lever spring, and rotate it counterclockwise as you push it back in. Done.


Here's a write up I did a while back. Hope it helps.
P229 Conversion
 

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I disagree about keeping the .40 insert for a P228 frame. The P228 insert has some significant dimensional differences from the .40 version. I understand that it "works" to leave the .40 in, (my experience was different) but it's less than optimal. The frames are the same, but there are two distinctly different parts (and part numbers) for the particular inserts for the P228 in 9mm and the .40. There must me a reason for that. Since the insert comes with the kit, I don't see why you wouldn't replace it as well. It's an easy job. Push on the back of the takedown lever while you continue to rotate it fully counter clockwise as you pull it our from the left side of the frame. Slide the insert up and out. Swap the slide catch lever spring to the new insert and slide the new insert back in the frame. You may have to rotate the trigger pivot pin a little if you got the alignment off so that the slot on the insert will catch the flat on the pivot pin. Once in the insert is in place, replace the takedown lever by starting it with the notch down to clear the "hump" on the slide catch lever spring, and rotate it counterclockwise as you push it back in. Done.


Here's a write up I did a while back. Hope it helps.
P229 Conversion
I went back and read through again and didn't see anyone suggesting putting a .40 insert in a P228. We were talking about leaving the .40 insert in a P229 and adding a P228 slide.
 

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P229 .40 and P228 locking inserts compared.

I went back and read through again and didn't see anyone suggesting putting a .40 insert in a P228. We were talking about leaving the .40 insert in a P229 and adding a P228 slide.
Sorry, my mistake. I meant to type "228 slide" instead of "228 frame". I've edited that post to clarify it a little more.

EDIT: OK, I had a whole write up here with my conclusions. I'm pulling that and I'll just leave these pics here so you guys can draw your own conclusions. I'd love to hear them.

Here are the two locking inserts, side by side top view. The .40 is marked as such and the P228 is marked with the "29". Both are from the late 90's/early '00 era.



Here's the back view of the two inserts. Note the height difference at the top feed surface. The .40 is still on the left.



Now here's a shot of the same inserts with their respective barrels in the locked position. I laid a machinist square over the tops to better show the height difference in the two. Keep in mind that the overall height of the two inserts is the same at their top to bottom at their tallest points as shown in the pic above. This illustrates the relationship between the top surface of the barrel hoods for the respective slides as they relate to the frame. Again, the P228 and P229 9mm frames are identical. The P229 .40 is also the same as those two except for the width of the magazine wells.



In this shot you see two identical P228 barrels (both from the parts kits I bought) in "locked" position on the different caliber locking inserts.




Here's one last top view of the two P228 barrels on the different inserts. Both barrels were pushed fully into their locked position, the locking inserts aligned with each other at the bottom and the machinist's square squared up to be as perpendicular as I could get.





Comments?


Anyway, if nothing else, I hope this helps bring this thread back on the clarity rails! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the clarifications. Fantastic post about the locking inserts. Very helpful.

I'm awaiting the arrival of the bits. I'll run them a bit and see how it goes, but I am already feeling buyers remorse and wishing I'd just spent a bit more scratch on a conversion barrel and been done with it. A barrel and recoil spring in an oiled cloth is a small, quick swap to stash in a range kit.

Anyone interested in a P228/P229 9mm parts kit? :rolleyes:
 

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I hope it was helpful. After reading a couple of "dissenting opinions", I thought I'd better do a little more research, since it seems that as those parts kits get out there, more guys will try it. Id hate to see somebody mess up a gun or worse, mess up themselves or somebody else.

When I built mine I tried the simple slide swap and it wouldn't cycle correctly or lock. I pulled the .40 and did a quick visual comparison, saw the difference, swapped them and it worked. I never really did the side by side with parts until yesterday. When I laid the two P228 barrels across the different locking inserts, I was amazed at how much higher the barrel hood and chamber were pushed up when you put the P228 barrel over the .40 insert compared to the 9mm insert, which is the right position for that P228 slide. I'm amazed anybody's been able to get their pistol to slide at all. That's really far out of spec.
 

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Just took my Franken 228/229 to the range. Put 100 rounds down range without the slightest hiccup.

Swapping the block out is an extra step but it takes all of a minute or two or maybe three if you forget to decock. :banghead:
 
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