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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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MUST I buy BOTH the inner and outer pins, or is there a coil pin substitute on a Carbon/folded slide - or is there a substitute? Right now, only the inner pin seems to be available at TG Supply.

OR... do you use the newer coil pins (made for the new P series slides)?:.
You can use a spiral roll pin but SIG doesn’t sell them. You’d have to find one on your own. I got mine from Gerry R.
 

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Remember these hold the whole Breech Block in place, in the slide, not just preventing the excessive travel of a Firing Pin. Suggest using the "correct" parts, and more than likely the original roll pins are "metric" and not fractional, and likely 3mm OD and 25mm long for the Outer Pin.
 

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A set of these pins is included in the various spring kits for the P220, P226 and P228 (Not the P229)

These pins would be the correct pins Willard refers to and perhaps someone here that does not have a folded slide can part with a set for a nominal fee?

If you bought a spring set for a P220/226 and yours is the newer milled slide you would not have any use for these pins and might offers them on the classified forum
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So what is right? Brownells that say SIG, or metric from somewhere else?
 

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So what is right? Brownells that say SIG, or metric from somewhere else?
The ones I referenced from Brownells are Sig Parts, and correct for the German folded slides. If you don't want to spring for a complete "Parts Kit" just for the pins, they are your best bet. MATRIX did have them available but show "out-of-stock", Same with Midwest Gun Works doesn't show them, and Top Gun Supply, only has the Inner Pins in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So what is right? Brownells that say SIG, or metric from somewhere else?
The ones I referenced from Brownells are Sig Parts, and correct for the German folded slides. If you don't want to spring for a complete "Parts Kit" just for the pins, they are your best bet. MATRIX did have them available but show "out-of-stock", Same with Midwest Gun Works doesn't show them, and Top Gun Supply, only has the Inner Pins in stock.

Thank you sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just watched two videos and each one showed the guy putting the OLD roll pins back in. I 'have heard it said' that you need to replace the roll pins every time you take the slide down. True?

Also, The outer pin IS FAT when new - how hard is it to start? (I don't even have a roll pin starter punch large enough). Is the right roll pin punch actually 1/8"?

Thanks.
 

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Everyone who makes a video, has a video camera... and that's all of the knowledge necessary, apparently from some of them I have watched! "I" have "reused" the pins many times over the years, the "key" here is "how long have they been used"? If there is good tension, and they're not that old, there shouldn't be a problem. Remember they are holding the slide "together"! The "roll pins" in the old Sigs are "metric", and likely 3mm (.120") for the larger one, so while a 1/8" (.125") roll pin punch would be fine to install the outer pin, to drive out the pins, to me a 3/32" would be best, but Sig says to use a 1/8". Trying to drive the Inner Pin "out" by itself, even with a 1/16" or 5/64" roll pin punch will likely get it stuck inside the Outer Pin. Whether that's the reason to "replace" them or not, I can't say. Trying to drive back in the "both" at once, is nearly impossible. That's why it's preferable to install each separately, as the Inner Pin "expands" the Outer Pin for a tight fit.

There have been instances, reported here, where the "Outer" pins have been "shattered" by continuous dry firing without snap caps. If that is a common practice, then replacement, of at least the "Outer" pin would be justified.

Chapter 9 in the Armorers Manuals provided in the Gunsmithing Sticky section, lists the procedure, but not the "reasons".
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Willard. I do dry fire a bunch, but use an ear plug to dampen the impact.

I now have new ones from Brownell's and Matrix Precision, so new is not an issue. I have seen on one vid, a guy START the outer pin, then do the inner one when half way.

I think I would start the outer, line up the block, get the outer one in half way then knock in the inner then drive it home together.

One reason is that I want to change out my WG P226 firing pin spring with a decreased strength one from Eemantech.
 

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When using a "solid" backing to the slide, I use a polymer "bench" block, a solid area placed under "hole" of the slide. The Outer pin "stops" when it reaches the block, then drive the Inner pin in until it stops.
 

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Getting the Outer pin in, holds everything together, to make sure everything works, as it's supposed to. That way if there are any problems, it's easy to drive out just the Outer pin, and to insure it is aligned properly. Then just driving the Inner pin into position secures the whole thing!
 
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