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Ok, thanks for the clarification, understand the short/long strut requirement, how about the decocker lever, do I need to replace it or not?
 

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After I replaced the grips with E2s, I don’t know if I messed something up, I did take them off and did it a second time, paying close attention to inserting that mainspring lever, when I pushed on it it did move the hammer forward and not backwards, it seemed to ‘fit’ in as it should but afterwards.. I noticed the hammer seems back farther than it should be, I looked at other pics and the hammer does seem to lie just a little back from the slide. Functionally everything feels right, decocker, slide racking, trigger pull(much improved btw, after swapping the mainspring E2 change), but when I watch the hammer, pulling the trigger, it sure seems like it doesn’t cycle far enuf into the slide to make contact with the firing pin, it doesn’t come close when dry firing, Is this normal? I know I will find out when I can get to the range but until then I thought I’d ask. Hopefully this question made sense.
Thanks and be safe!
 

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After I replaced the grips with E2s, I don’t know if I messed something up, I did take them off and did it a second time, paying close attention to inserting that mainspring lever, when I pushed on it it did move the hammer forward and not backwards, it seemed to ‘fit’ in as it should but afterwards.. I noticed the hammer seems back farther than it should be, I looked at other pics and the hammer does seem to lie just a little back from the slide. Functionally everything feels right, decocker, slide racking, trigger pull(much improved btw, after swapping the mainspring E2 change), but when I watch the hammer, pulling the trigger, it sure seems like it doesn’t cycle far enuf into the slide to make contact with the firing pin, it doesn’t come close when dry firing, Is this normal? I know I will find out when I can get to the range but until then I thought I’d ask. Hopefully this question made sense.
Thanks and be safe!
To see if it’s not traveling far enough to make contact with the firing pin, use the pencil test. Hold your pistol vertically, drop a standard pencil down the barrel, eraser first, so the eraser is sitting on the breech face. When you pull the trigger the firing pin should hit the eraser with enough force to launch the pencil out of the barrel, or at least make it fly up a bit. If you pull the trigger and the pencil doesn’t move, you’ve got an issue.
 

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Thanks! The pencil jumps about an inch, so I guess she’s good?
Thanks again and this is one of the best sites for folks responding with good info, much appreciated!!
It seems like mine usually jump more than an inch, but it’s been a while since I did it with my Classic Series pistols. But any movement at all means you’re at least activating the firing pin.
 

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would you know where i can buy a hammer spring and trigger spring for m11a1 e2 grips
Mainspring & Trigger Bar return Spring or Sear Spring-

To better serve,click on the red numbered part in the link below-
 

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Mainspring & Trigger Bar return Spring or Sear Spring-

To better serve,click on the red numbered part in the link below-
Would this be the one Sig Sauer P Series Mainspring
Mainspring & Trigger Bar return Spring or Sear Spring-

To better serve,click on the red numbered part in the link below-
Would this be the one Sig Sauer P Series Mainspring
 

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The Mainspring, and Trigger Bar spring are identical to what your M11A1 came with. To use the E2 grips, you need the long Hammer Strut, (Hammer-Strut-8), and short nylon Mainspring Seat (Mainspring-Seat-2). The Decocking Lever on your M11A1 should be the same that comes in the kit.

Sig Sauer P Series Mainspring: MGW (midwestgunworks.com) this is what you need!

Sig Sauer P226, P227 & P229 Trigger Bar Spring: MGW (midwestgunworks.com) since this is sold out currently... Sig Sauer Trigger Bar Spring - P227, P226, P228, P229, P245 New Style - Top Gun Supply or Sig Sauer Trigger Bar Spring Sig Sauer P226 P228 P229 P245 (midwayusa.com)
 
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